What happens when i remove the wastegate spring??I hope someone can tell me that.

 

There will be no spring inside if you remove it. Be more specific on the question.

Adriano

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adriano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There will be no spring inside if you remove it. Be more specific on the question.

Adriano</TD></TR></TABLE>

What i mean is does still makes boost?

 

No because the valve will have no tension and will stay open all times. You might hit 1-2 psi at high rpms if the turbo is small enough. Why do you wanna do t his?

Adriano

 

Put down the crack pipe.The spring holds the gate closed.A three pound spring holds the gate closed against three pounds of boost.No spring would hold the spring closed against .......

 

I wanna now this because i have fresley build 2.0L ls/vtec.And than i can breakin the motor without boost.So that means that i can mount everything already on the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackpearlcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wanna now this because i have fresley build 2.0L ls/vtec.And than i can breakin the motor without boost.So that means that i can mount everything already on the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why dont you just take it easy for a while instead of go through the trouble?

..or put a block of wood under you gas pedal. lol..

 

you shouldnt have any problems breaking it in with boost, IMO i would start her up for the first time make sure everything is good trailer it to the dyno and get it tuned right then and there, not need to drive around with the wastegate open

 

I was going to try tuning a friend's turbo car, starting with NA (had a terrible basemap). We took the 5lb spring out of the imitation-tial WG, and got a nasty suprise (or pleasant, depending on your view) when it raged up to 10-11psi at 6500rpm. B16, 57trim t3/to4. I don't know what the deal was.

What I'd suggest is take the spring out, take the BOV off, then put fine steel mesh over the hole, then cover the mesh with nylon stocking material (or rip apart some cheap paper air filter). That should completely eliminate the chance of boost. Or at the very least, keep it to 1-2psi MAX.

 

why don't u just remove the pipe that connects from the turbo to the intercooler

 

because that would be running unlimited boost, the turbo would spin to too high of an rpm and break.... thats a horrible idea

 

i believe i read somewhere it is impossible to over-rev a turbo.... but dont quote me on that

 

The turbo is basicly a pinwheel connected to another pinwheel. Blow on one, the other moves. Shoot spent combustion gasses from a 4-cyl motor at high rpm's onto one pinwheel, the other will spin like mad if it's not controlled. At medium boost and high rpm, a b18 can spin a T3 close to 200,000 rpm - when it's making the compessor wheel push against something. I can't imagin how FAST it would spin when in open air.

Go to the vwvortex forum, I think theres a few examples of overspinning. The latest one I know of is a GT28RS on a 6cyl VW @32psi. With the shaft supported by ball-bearings, it couldn't wobble and DIG into the journal bearings when it had the force to break the oil film. INSTEAD, the turbine wheel broke away from the shaft. Definately not covered under warranty.




That's why I suggest basicly creating a *small* leak between the FMIC and throttle body. The FMIC can help create pressure drop and all air into it is filtered. If you feel unsafe, take a piece of thick, flat rubber, and bolt it to the BOV port so vacuum holds it shut, and boost pops it open.

 

If its a Tial then just put a small yellow spring in it (4#'s).I drove my eg ls-t all winter that way.Its very easy to stay out of boost.I only booted when I wanted and that's with a gsr tranny.
Glenn