dominikano24

car is 1992 intergra DA LS....o.k ive been searchin this for a cpl of days now and i still cant fix the problem.... i look at all the other thrads started on this subject other places and tried everything. hat i could think of..... my prob is.. i start the car and 1st of all it has trouble starting the 1st time... when it does turn on it turns right off.... when i turn it back on then it idles like at 200 really really low sometimes it stays on and sometimes it juss falls and turns off.....i tried driving the car like that and it revs fine while driving but when i come to a stop it juss dies... i know this could be something really silly but it's taken me 4 days and i still cant figure this one out so i need some help....

3-bar map sensor has been tested
vaccum lines are correct and not leaking, running GE vaumm manifold.
TB gasket- no leaks
no FITV/ I have a blox manifold.
cleaned IACV and made shure it has been properly pluged in....
TPS is plugged in...
NO- check engine light.
are there any fuses inside or outside the car that shoud check or maybe a relay??

the car is turbo ofcourse turbo and my vacumm reads between 10&14 dont know if that's how it should be...i cant remember... can someone tell me what your vacumm reads at idle... any suggestions to my problem...... ive been trying to fix this for 4 days now and i cant figure it out. thanks...

adseguy

Since you are running a 3 bar that means you have to have a chipped or full standalone EMS. I'd say first check the AFR's at the idle. Make sure eveything is set for the EMS like fuel cut isn't too high and that the 3bar is reading above the fuel cut etc. Do this: plug the stock map sensor back in and get a basemap for the injectors you have. If it starts up and runs fine you knows it's the "tune" on the 3bar. GL

DannyDeuce

My vacuum at idle is around 22.

DAN

dominikano24

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since you are running a 3 bar that means you have to have a chipped or full standalone EMS. I'd say first check the AFR's at the idle. Make sure eveything is set for the EMS like fuel cut isn't too high and that the 3bar is reading above the fuel cut etc. Do this: plug the stock map sensor back in and get a basemap for the injectors you have. If it starts up and runs fine you knows it's the "tune" on the 3bar. GL</TD></TR></TABLE>

well my car is on uberdata.... my car sat for a while and i recently just changed my turbo set up from a t4 to a t3/t4 57 trim, and added a blox manifold to the mix.... when i last ran the car the idle was perfect at idle, i dont think that changing the turbo and intake mani would mess with the paramiters of the chip... since it was burned once and they havent changed... but i may be wrong...

when the car is at idle i unplugged the 3bar to see if the car reacted to it and it just turns off... which tells me the 3bar is working.... even though i installed the new blox nani i have check all my vacumms lines and the are all fine...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DannyDeuce &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My vacuum at idle is around 22.

DAN</TD></TR></TABLE>
so if im at 10-14 on vacumm there must be a leak somewhere then right???

adseguy

Yeah I'd have to say it's the blox Manifold that is doing something since you said it ran fine before the install. GL finding the problem

booja

my car does that too and i dont know y... on a h22 though...

but after my car warms up its fine idles at like 800 or 900

but when its cold it doesnt even stay on... it shuts right off. i gotta keep my foot on the gas for like 2 mins and drive around for about 5 mins b4 its normal...

does it every morning or after it sits for like 4 hours

dominikano24

o.k i think i narrowed it down to what it could be..... it's either my distributor or the valve on the brake booster...........


can some 1 do me a favor and maybe just switch the brake booster valve to the opposite side that it is on and tell me if the car idles normal???

i recently removed the valve and im not sure if i connected it right.... i may have connected it backwards.... and that's what causing my idle problems... since iv'e checked every other thing already.....

this would really help me since i am troubleshooting and it would help if i see how another G2 reacts.....

im at work right now si i cant go home and try it my self... but if some1 could juss take 1 min to do that it would be really helpfull... since ive been trying to fix this for days now...... someone give me a hand and try that for me and tell me if the car idles like ****....

dominikano24

somebady help ^^^^^^^^^^^ pls.

dominikano24

guys thanks for the help but my problem is not solved yet.......... i reversed the brake booster valve the way it should be and still nothing........ ,my car turns on and suddenly dies............ now what i have noticed is that if i remove the brake booster hose from the intake mani my car idles fine @ 2k or so.... but when i hook it back up to the booster with the valve the car wants to die like if the booster is not allowing it to suck enough air...... and again i thought that might be because of the valve being backwards since it's a 1 way valve but now its correct and still having the prob.... my question now is could it be that my brake booster is blocked off or cloged inside somehow cause that's honestly the only thing that comes to mind..... i dont know what else to troubleshoot.........

.dave

Your problem is not a vacuum leak, its a lack of air getting to the engine. The reason it sat at 2000 rpm with the brake booster line off was because it was drawing in air through there. Either your IACV is not working or something is blocking air from getting to it. Check and make sure its hooked up properly, and also check and see if the throttle body gasket is on correctly (hole for port leading to IACV isn't blocked).

If you removed the FITV, you may have to crack the throttle plate open a little bit more than it was before. Unless I'm mistaken, isn't it open when the engine is cold and it closes as it warms up? Assuming you didn't mess with anything else, you won't be getting the same amount of air with the car starting cold.

HiProfile

I'm assuming that 'single burn' of the chip was scaled for a 3-bar map sensor, and ran fine with the 3-bar before the turbo/IM change.

Work backwards. The easiest thing to do is go back to the OEM Intake manifold. If that doesn't work, it's something else. Hell, try the old turbo as well - you don't have much to loose, since it's already undrivable. The other thing is to try the idle adjustment screw, but I'll guess you already did that.

Regardless of what it is, be sure to get it retuned. The t3/t04 will spool MUCH sooner than the t4. I'd assume those earlier points on the fuel map weren't tuned, so you could be running VERY lean during the first thousand rpm (however quicker spoolup is) the new turbo boosts.


If you already boosted with this turbo on the old tune, then the problems began, try a leakdown and compression test. Something as simple as detonation between 4k rpm and 5k rpm could destroy any piston.

shortyz21

hey man, im in the same ******* boat as you and i cant figure it out for the life of me.

ive changed fuel, timing, IACV, IAT, idle screw, throttle plate, injectors.

i have been defeated...


also when my car gets really warm itll idle up to 1500 then back to 900... repeat.

dominikano24

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your problem is not a vacuum leak, its a lack of air getting to the engine. The reason it sat at 2000 rpm with the brake booster line off was because it was drawing in air through there. Either your IACV is not working or something is blocking air from getting to it. Check and make sure its hooked up properly, and also check and see if the throttle body gasket is on correctly (hole for port leading to IACV isn't blocked).

If you removed the FITV, you may have to crack the throttle plate open a little bit more than it was before. Unless I'm mistaken, isn't it open when the engine is cold and it closes as it warms up? Assuming you didn't mess with anything else, you won't be getting the same amount of air with the car starting cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>


thank you for your post... i have kind of figured that it is a lack of air....... i have removed the fitv... and like i said cleaned the IACV i find it really hard that my IACV will juss go bad from the car just sitting there for like 8months undrivable..... it was working perfeck B4 nonetheless.... i have to start checking every little possibility... so i will see if i can get 1 at the junk yard or something.... when the car stays on at 200rpms i have tried playing with the idle screw but nothing happens....... also I find it hard to believe that it's the new blox manifold that's doing this but WTF i'll put my stock 1 in juss to trouble shoot 1 more thing....... and also the gaskets are not leaking but if they were it should not effect the idle cause that would mean that the engine is breathing extra air and it would idle higher but that's not the case here....... my car flat out dies when i hook up the brake booster like you said because a bigggg lack of air....

.dave

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dominikano24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you for your post... i have kind of figured that it is a lack of air....... i have removed the fitv... and like i said cleaned the IACV i find it really hard that my IACV will juss go bad from the car just sitting there for like 8months undrivable..... it was working perfeck B4 nonetheless.... i have to start checking every little possibility... so i will see if i can get 1 at the junk yard or something.... when the car stays on at 200rpms i have tried playing with the idle screw but nothing happens....... also I find it hard to believe that it's the new blox manifold that's doing this but WTF i'll put my stock 1 in juss to trouble shoot 1 more thing....... and also the gaskets are not leaking but if they were it should not effect the idle cause that would mean that the engine is breathing extra air and it would idle higher but that's not the case here....... my car flat out dies when i hook up the brake booster like you said because a bigggg lack of air.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Try adjusting the screw to open the throttle plate a little. There's a procedure somewhere for setting it with the IACV unplugged.

shortyz21

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Try adjusting the screw to open the throttle plate a little. There's a procedure somewhere for setting it with the IACV unplugged. </TD></TR></TABLE>

does anyone know this procedure?

.dave

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone know this procedure?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's a good thread about it:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=948292

shortyz21

i think imma pull my throttle body off and make sure the holes are lining up properly..

dominikano24

i will be installing a frieds distributor and cables , also his iacv ............ i was told by some one that cheked it out that my coil might be on its way out the door. so for the hell of it im just swapping those parts to see if that fixes my low idle prob........ hopefully santa will give me that as a late x-mas gift... cause im tired of searching for what the prob could be.....