civictypenos

Ok,before any one here says anything about the hack.I do not run the hack nor will I ever run the hack.The hack in my opinion is a waste of a vafc,please keep all hack related things out,thanx you.

For those who are still reading.My cars set up:

b16a3
saab t3 - new
intercooled
370's cc injectors-rc's
vafc
bkre7's
crane ignition w/ ps92 coil
chipped ecu p30
missing link
internal mitsu 10 pound actuator wastegate

I think thats all thats reletive.The car runs great,feels like a stock turboed car.Ive been using the techedge wideband kit with palm pilot to do some tunning on the car.im still unclear how to set up a few things,like low/high thtrottle.I have the low set to 35% and the high set to 75%,I dont know if im even close to having that right?I was figuring that low settings would start taking over and 35% and high would start taking over at 75%.

The thing is,it pulls so great at partial throttle,it pulls and pulls and just keeps accelerating strong.If I floor the throttle,it seems to not be as strong,it does not hesitiate or bog,just seems to not go as fast.At partial throttle the gauge goes to 10 psi and stays,at full throttle it seems to go up,then drop down to about 6-7.

Do i have the high/low settings set up wrong or do i just need to work on getting the a/f straight.

Id like input from those of you who have actually tunned in the car using the vafc,like vaportrail,Ive heard he does a great job with these things.Where do you start when tunning in one?How do you set it up to get started?

thanx alot for any help.

civictypenos

up

b16ahybrid

what are the specs on that t-3?
I used a t3 off of a saab on my b16, at first but it waas to small (.42 cold .48 hot)

scttydb411

i assume you mean 35% is your low throttle % setting and 75% is your hi throttle % setting. what this means is that what ever your corrections are for each hi and low they will be accessed and used whenever your tps is at those settings. therefore, say your corrections are -40 for lo and -38 for hi...when your tps is at 35% you will be correcting -40 off your map and therefore correcting your injectors down. when tps is at 75% you will be correcting -38 off your map and therefore correcting your injectors down too. which is the hack. by having the tps % so far from each other makes the afc average the corrections in some form and is probably your problem. more information regarding your corrections would help.

by using a missing link i assume that you are trying to not use the afc like the hack by what you say, but since you are using larger injectors than stock you still need to correct down the injectors to idle and off boost...otherwise you will be running extremely rich, stubling idle, stalling, and washing your cylinders.

at hi throttle you will still be running pretty rich unless you are running a large t3 without using negative corrections to help control the fueling.

why wouldn't you want to used the afc like the hack without the missing link? using the missing link negates the need to correct the map for boost with the afc and fine tune the fuel, but i just don't get exactly how you are using it or want to use it.

here is the part you said you didn't want, but maybe it'll help anyway. remove the missing link and use the afc for the hack. find out where your ecu switches from open/closed loop. mine is at 50% tps. set your lo throttle% 1% below that and make your corrections so that your 370cc injectors are essentially 240cc. set your hi throttle% 1% higher than the lo% (the same point that ecu switches open/closed loop) and make your corrections richer (lower negative#). then use your techedge to fine tune the hi corrections for your fueling. that's how i have mine and how i tuned mine using a techedge wideband. just don't boost too high below the switching point. since mine is 50%tps anyway it doesn't seem to affect me. i'll boost anywere from 1-5psi at low tps and afr in the 14's which is where the ecu will try to keep it until switching open/closed loop. most of the time that i'm boosting i'm going to be more than 50% into the throttle anyway.

hope i have been able to help. and if not ignore me. this will help someone i'm sure.

civictypenos

scttydb411

how do you know when its in open/closed loop,is there somehwere to measure this out?

civictypenos

up

rioninja

If your wastegate actuator is too small (ie: one from a mitsubishi turbo), then it can cause those exact symptoms: boost spiking than dropping off.

Did your saab t3 not come with a wastegate actuator?

civictypenos

well,it came with one,but i swapped it out for the mitu one because i was thinking the sabb one didnt go up in boost high enough,i never tried it out though,hell i dont even remeber if i still have that thing anywhere,lol.you think the mitsu wastegate is the problem.

i can tell you this,im baffled by it.when i first put things together,the flapper got stuck on the downpipe,it boosted to 20psi +.but now i cant get the damn thing to hit 10,wtf?

its a mitsu wastegate from a talon,t25.i cut the end of it off and threaded it.then screwed the end of the saab one onto it.i tightened it up so that the wastegate had to be pulled out a little to reach the flapper.so there is no slack at all.then i ran the wastegate vacuum line off the same line as my bov and fpr.

rioninja

Yeah, i went through the same thing. My stock actuator developed a leak, so i switched to a smaller style one. Apparently its much to "finicky" to hold stable boost...
I suffered your exact symptoms. After changing back to a better matched larger style
actuator it returned to normal.

civictypenos

hmmm.the saab one was alot bigger in size compared to the one i have now.i guess it wont hurt to find out,thanx,now i just need to find one,lol.i knew when i threw it away id need it again one day,damn it!