ok, i got my car ruffly tunned up pritty good now... and finally got my boost spike problem taken care of... however today was like the first day that i have been able to get into vtec... the car runs good and the AF ratios are decent... but when i hit vtec the car goes rich... i tunned the car according to "Keebler's writeup" and in the write up he states and i quote....

"Add more fuel if it was lean, or subtract fuel if it was rich. You will quickly get a feel for how much the percentage changes the air to fuel ratio. Don't forget to add the same amount to the Fuel Hi map if you have a VTEC motor."

so for everytime i added or subtracted fuel i did the same in the fuel HI portions.. and now when i hit vtec the ****** is pig right.. like around 10's ... how do i fix that?? haha i mean.. i cant go driving my car around town doing 100mph... how do you guys tune your vtec's? with out datalogging? thanks guys.. sorry for the long writeup

 

well i dont have a datalogger but i have a girlfriend lol, i have her write down ****. I usally call out rpm, psi (or vacuum) and afr. Lets say at vtec 3psi its 10:1 so thats ******* rich. So going into the vtec maps and lets say let off 10 % from 3 psi up the enitire vtec map (chances are its rich in the entire map.), or just around that 3 psi mark and within a couple thousand rpms. (3psi -7psi 5500 to 7000) Then try it again. It helps to have a dyno so you can pay attention to your motor instead of the road. Also remember you want a smooth map, no real spikes, if the cell at 3psi 5700 says 350 and the cell at 5 psi 5700 says 550 you may have a problem. The honda ecu also extrapolates teh data, forinstance your at 5700 4psi , the computer would compute a value of 450. SO if you rich i would try to change 5psi to 450 and see what happens. To be safe make small changes this way you dont go from pig rich to lean as ****, this way you feel out how the changes corestpond to your tune. Trial and error is basically what it come down too

i hope i was able to help you out a bit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i dont have a datalogger but i have a girlfriend lol, i have her write down ****. I usally call out rpm, psi (or vacuum) and afr. Lets say at vtec 3psi its 10:1 so thats ******* rich. So going into the vtec maps and lets say let off 10 % from 3 psi up the enitire vtec map (chances are its rich in the entire map.), or just around that 3 psi mark and within a couple thousand rpms. (3psi -7psi 5500 to 7000) Then try it again. It helps to have a dyno so you can pay attention to your motor instead of the road. Also remember you want a smooth map, no real spikes, if the cell at 3psi 5700 says 350 and the cell at 5 psi 5700 says 550 you may have a problem. The honda ecu also extrapolates teh data, forinstance your at 5700 4psi , the computer would compute a value of 450. SO if you rich i would try to change 5psi to 450 and see what happens. To be safe make small changes this way you dont go from pig rich to lean as ****, this way you feel out how the changes corestpond to your tune. Trial and error is basically what it come down too

i hope i was able to help you out a bit </TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah man.. good stuff.. and thats kinda what im afraid of... haha.. im gona wreck my car damn it haha ill try and get it as close as i can and stay out of the high rpms ... (gas is f-ing exspensive) thanks bro

 

oh, when im tunning the vtec, should i just adjust the tables on in the fuel HI tab? and can i select the whole vac (psi) table from top to bottom or do i have to pin point the exact rpm ? thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboH22Aakkord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, when im tunning the vtec, should i just adjust the tables on in the fuel HI tab? and can i select the whole vac (psi) table from top to bottom or do i have to pin point the exact rpm ? thanks guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

ttt for that question....

 

(Actual AFR/Desired AFR)*100-100=Percent to take away

(10AFR/11.5AFR)*100-100=-13.0434782608695652173913043478261%

Same calculations most autotune programs use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alsofood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(Actual AFR/Desired AFR)*100-100=Percent to take away

(10AFR/11.5AFR)*100-100=-13.0434782608695652173913043478261%

Same calculations most autotune programs use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy ****.. where have you been all mylife... haha that stuff is probably well known info but ... im a lil slow.. thanks man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alsofood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(Actual AFR/Desired AFR)*100-100=Percent to take away

(10AFR/11.5AFR)*100-100=-13.0434782608695652173913043478261%

Same calculations most autotune programs use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but that's also why autotune sucks! The problem is taking away 3% in the higher columns does about that same as taking 10% in the lower cloumns. And the bigger your injectors are the bigger this scale gets. don't take 13% that's prolly WAY too much if you are in the ten's I'd say start at 4% or lower and see what that does. Take the advantage of tuning yourself and take your time. You have ALL day with no rush use that to your advantage. GL with the tuning

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, but that's also why autotune sucks! The problem is taking away 3% in the higher columns does about that same as taking 10% in the lower cloumns. And the bigger your injectors are the bigger this scale gets. don't take 13% that's prolly WAY too much if you are in the ten's I'd say start at 4% or lower and see what that does. Take the advantage of tuning yourself and take your time. You have ALL day with no rush use that to your advantage. GL with the tuning </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the advice bro.. ill talke it slow and easy

 

Tuning vtec is just like any other tuning. Find out where vtec enguages - thats when it switches over to the FUEL HI and IGN HI maps (that's what they're for). Anything rpm before vtec should be adjustments to low maps, anything after should be for fuel hi. Its also a good idea to tune low maps all the way to redline with vtec not working (unplug the solenoid), just in case. Its also good to lower vtec 500rpm and tune those cells, just in case you ever decide to lower vtec in the future.

VTEC is essentially like switching to a different, bigger camshaft, which is why it has it's own fuel and ignition maps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, but that's also why autotune sucks! The problem is taking away 3% in the higher columns does about that same as taking 10% in the lower cloumns. And the bigger your injectors are the bigger this scale gets. don't take 13% that's prolly WAY too much if you are in the ten's I'd say start at 4% or lower and see what that does. Take the advantage of tuning yourself and take your time. You have ALL day with no rush use that to your advantage. GL with the tuning </TD></TR></TABLE>


couldnt have said it any better.

first turn VTEC off in the misc menu of uberdata. tune away the low cam fuel maps. once thats done, set VTEC to engage early, like 1K rpms before its supposed to come on. be prepared for the car to bog once vtec enagages. then start tuning VTEC. once u have it tuned, set VTEC rpm back to where u want it to enagage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


couldnt have said it any better.

first turn VTEC off in the misc menu of uberdata. tune away the low cam fuel maps. once thats done, set VTEC to engage early, like 1K rpms before its supposed to come on. be prepared for the car to bog once vtec enagages. then start tuning VTEC. once u have it tuned, set VTEC rpm back to where u want it to enagage</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks guys...