tiemze

Does it matter which way the turbo faces on a cast manifold?

ballistic1350

iTrader: (7)

No. Just depends on how you want fit the downpipe

tiemze

Thanks! I was having trouble finding downpipes going down the driver side. And I already have one that goes down the passenger side. I talked to Phil at spoolin and he said my turbo was backwards. So I was confused

ballistic1350

iTrader: (7)

I ran mine down the passenger side when I ran a log manifold

tiemze

Did you have ac?

ballistic1350

iTrader: (7)

No

brandynEG

with a log manifold, I set my turbo up to have the hot side on the passenger side, it just made exhaust work easier given the shape of the oil pan.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Exactly what I did. If you do it the other way the turbo may hit the webbing on the block and require trimming.

tiemze

yup. I had the cold side on the left and had to trim some webbing but it did fit. Now if i do it the other way the a/c compressor touches the turbo inlet. I grinded away some of it and got it to fit. But I would'nt be able to run an intake on the inlet. Unless I used dryer duct or something. A mesh screen can fit but I dont think thats good for a dd.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Technically, it is "backwards". The cast log manifold that you have was designed to be oriented so that the compressor housing is to face the passenger fender. This is so that a 5 bolt Ford-style housing is to be used as the downpipe to clear the A/C compressor. ( Yes, even if it meant that the webbing on the block was to be cut slightly, as it has been for the last 15 years). If you look at the T3 flange of the manifold you have it is "cocked" slightly to the right to allow for this style of downpipe.

There are those that use a manifold intended for a 5 bolt downpipe and flip it to work the opposite direction like you're planning, but those individuals create their own downpipes and not search online.

Most people regardless will still put the turbocharger facing the driver's fender and try to integrate a downpipe for a 5 bolt or 4 bolt housing. But that can be more difficult in the long run.

The term "log" manifold tends to be overused broadly to describe both cast 5 bolt style and for tubular steel, which tend to contain a more "centered" T3 flange mounting....

An example. (notice the angle of the t3 flange), sorry for the large picture.



Made to run with this 5 bolt downpipe


Ford style turbocharger


These include the Rev-Hard, Spoolin' Performance, Go-Autoworks, and Inline Pro Cast steel and Iron manifolds.

Some cast manifolds are centered, but are usually T4 flanged.


The tubular Schedule 10 manifolds typically use centered T3 flanges so that the turbocharger can work on either side, but it depends upon the direction of the external wastegate flange or flanged elbow if used.

This includes the same companies of Spoolin' Performance, Go-Autoworks, PFabrications.com, etc.




They work with these downpipes (usually T31 2.5" 4 bolt or converted flanged systems.



With this downpipe


Lastly, there are the "unknowns". Such as tubular nickel-iron "minirams", Kooks-style "Ramhorns" and others that may or may not be A/C or P/S compatible. This is why it is very important that you match the company's downpipe with the manifold you choose. That way there is no confusion in "finding" a downpipe to work with your system, as the more robust companies use a welding jig to ensure that their downpipe works with their manifold. Or, be prepared to make your own.

Independent companies such as Neukin, Drag and others found on eBay expect you to fabricate your own downpipe to work with their manifold.

I know this was a bit convoluted, but this is not as cut and dry as others make it seem. When in doubt, if possible, contact the maker of your manifold to be sure you know which turbine housing it was designed for.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Also with the flange at an angle, when mounted on the drivers side, there'd a good chance the turbo won't even bolt up depending on compressor cover size... since the cover would hit the block before the manifold or turbo is fully seated. normally 4" inlet t04e and larger covers won't fit that way, t04b maybe depending on turbine housing design.

plus if you have ac it would never work in the first place, you'd have to cut up the turbo inlet or start grinding on the ac compressor, defeating the purpose of the cast manifold entirely.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Learned something.

tiemze

me too

Dark_Teg

Is there a ram horn that faces the compressor to the passenger side?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes. There are several companies that i know of that do that.


Blue Ridge Motorsports - (although they don't allow for proper water cooling, due to its placement)... See Revillusion's build.. Below is a T04E fitment.





Doesn't allow for water cooling much.




AFI Turbo (at least they were when it was under its original management), for T04E and T04S.

Below is a Type R with a T67




Hard to fit.. but possible. I'm sure there are plenty of others from RLD, Go-Autoworks, etc. But I just went with the ones I worked with and others recently.

I'm just not a fan of Kooks-style manifolds trying to keep A/C. It just doesn't make a lot of sense to me. But... to each.

met

My Full-race AC ram horn faces the compressor to the passengers side too. In hind sight I hate how intake angels right for the radiator. I got a 4" 45 coupler gt35 and can't fully seat it on the turbo to barley clear the radiator and it still rubs slightly. The cooling lines are run by using banjo bolts and running the cooling lines down. The other thing it took me forever to figure was the oil drain, the typical an lines wont bend enough to make the turn; they always crush. I ended up making custom hose barbs and using silicon hose.

Dark_Teg

It just seems easier to get a proper filter on the turbo with it facing the passenger side.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Using the banjo bolts is a standard thing. It was the block adapter on freeze plug that made the BRMS a bit difficult for some of those that use a more modern approach to water to integrate.

But you're right. In order for a lot of it to work, you have to be...creative in your approach.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

God forbid we be creative lol

sleepencivic

I love breaking the mold!! I'm doing a budget build right now with parts around the shop... using a inlinepro (traditional 5 bolt turbo housing only) t3 manifold with a 4 bolt t3/t4 60-1 orientated so the compressor is facing passenger side of the car. Had to shave the block webbing like always just have to be creative with the downpipe. Will post some pics when I get home.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I wouldn't go so far as "breaking the mold". That's just using what you have there, and being slick with your fabrication skills. Hell, I suppose that would be different considering that most young bucks on here simply ask for where they can find a downpipe to fit thier "unknown" manifold on eBay, and have it magically fit without any work.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Exactly why I took up welding and bought some mandrel bends. Downpipe and manifold combos are endless. Plus it has to match up with your exhaust, if you have one.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Everyone seems to think everything should just bolt up these days.

I remember when a 300hp street Honda was radical and uncommon, back in those days everyone had to pretty much build everything from scratch. the turbo "kit" and other "bolt on" parts have truly killed the car modification community imo.