i got a b16a, i was gonna boost it but i'm afraid the b16a is weak. i thought about rebuilding it before boost. i just can't afford to have downtown on the car. so i decide since i gonna rebuild, i was gonna go ahead on lsvtec. i was want to boost the lsv.
here what i gonna do, 8-12lbs max, was want to run stock LS piston, and i was want to drop some cam on it, but i keep hearing about the valve clearance(piston to valve) that u can't run a bigger cam.
then i talked to few ppl have done many lsvtec, i heard from running type r cam to skunk 2 stage 2 cam with stock ls piston.
i even saw on honda mag that they did a lsv build, pretty much new oil pump, water pump, timing belt, stock block untouch, and running stage 2 cam with valve spring and ti retainer and made 189whp.
so kinda hard to really know which route i should go, becuz ppl say there wont be any problem with valve, then on the forum everyone said can't run bigger cam with stock ls piston,
so now i want to just turbo b16a, i want to see 280whp on my crx. so i figure lsv can get me there a lot easier.
and yes i m on a budget, so since i can build motor, and tune honda ecu, and most of the work i can do myself.

 

youy can use any oem camshaft b16 gsr or type r but you will need to upgrade the valve springs to run type r cams. you should run a vtec oil pump or any obd2 oil pump. leave the bottom end stock or you can always install arp rod bolts for added security.

the b16 will reach your goals no problem though

 

YOU NEED TO UPGRADE THE ROD BOLTS. stock ls rod bolts strech and you will eat your bearings in a heart beat whenever you go ls-v ARP rod bolts is a must. i have ran lots of stage 2 cams on stock pistons (with new valve springs and retainers) without any issues at all.

 

actually yea for sure on rod bearing
i just trying to figure if i want to bore it or not.
if bore look good, i was going to hone it and re-ring.

part i going to replace
new oil pump(gsr)
new water pump(gsr)
new timing belt(gsr)
cometic head gasket
arp head stud and rod stud
blox spring and retainer
type r or blox type b cams
new valve seal
new gasket top and bottom
golden eagle lsv kit
magnetic oil plug
a good condition, b18b or a
acl rod bearing
550 cc injector and fuel pressure regulator and 255 walbro
lc1 wideband controller and 5wire o2, going to tune down the injector, but at least it is ready for turbo.

in between thinking of replacing or do
bored it to 81.5 to 82mm
new piston but if i go that route i may just use forged piston and rod, but i'm trying to cut cost.
main bearing.
i was hoping not removing the crank, but if it necessary to have the engine bore and re work crank, then i will. but if everything looks great then i won't, if any of that part is bad, then i will replace.

 

81.25 if you can find them or 81.5mm is good, keep the cylinders as thick as you can. you DO NOT need arp rod bolts with lsv, its a common misconception. its just added security. I personally ran a bone stock LS bottom end to 8500rpm for 20k miles with 16 psi of boost with out a single issue. my rod bearings were fine when i tokk the bottome end apart. my main bearings were ruined from lack of oil because i ran an LS oil pump instead of a vtec oil pump. i knew this when i was doing it just didnt care because i was building an engine to put into the car so worn bearings didnt bother me.

If your going to stick to cast pistons then get your self a set of those nippon turbo pistons. there esectially a stock ls pistons with larger ringlands that way you dont crack ringlands when boosting the engine

 

ok, i think i going to stick with pretty much stock, i just looking into boosting around 8-12lbs, mainly i have only 3500, so i would have to have everything done (except turbo, which i can buy part at a time) it need to be daily car.

so u think i can just rering the piston not hone it?? (of course if bore look good)
if i decide to sleeve the block and go with forged piston. what cr piston i should use? i would want to use s2s2 cam, and most likely NA for now, becuz i have to drive it without turbo and i don't want no power.

what i caculate i should able to full build my motor with that money and a good clutch. i already have all the tuning equipment and running crome tuned p28. so basicly i going to get this motor build and ready for the turbo, and pretty much i get the turbo then bolt it on then i'm good to go.

for arp stud, ebay have a lsvtec kit deal (golden eagle lsv kit, arp head stud and rod stud and head gasket for 459 shipped.) plus arp rod stud is cheap, i don't mind to spend that extra money for piece of mind.

 

Don't sleeve the block man. such a waste of money if your not building a monster. Just stick to what works and is affordable. going extreme is just not nessesary on this setup your trying to do. Dont over cam the car either. stock cams will work very well for such a mild setup. skunk2 pro1's are a great cam but they wear valve train to quickly for a daily driver. at the most i would say go with skunk2 tuner1's but ctr itr cams are great and wont wear valve train like an aftermarket cam will.

stick to mid 9's on compression ratio, just use some eagle rods and whatever company piston you like with the stock sleeves. cp arias je weiso srp are all good companies. you absolutly have to hone the cylinders with new rings

if you want to stick with stock stuff then get the arp rod bolts cause they are cheap, and get the nippon turbo pistons and you will have a reliable bottom end with as little money out as possible

 

man thats some good info, really help me a lot. i know what i need to do now.

 

for the price gsr cams in a b16 head are a great turbo cam