I just got my motor in (2.0 LSvtec, crower stage 2 race turbo cams, crower retainers, ferrea valves, skunk 2 springs, b18a bottom end, darton sleeves, je pistons, eagle rods)

Anyway, I get it in the car, and get a basemap from my tuner (crome), and the car wont idle. I can keep it idling, but if i try to give it gas, it feels like a studder box. I have the fuel pressure at 45, and the cams are in time. I can get the actual timing until it idles halfway decent. All vac lines are hooked up, anyone know what could be going on? Any info is appreciated.

 

Update:

Tonight I check the TPS and it was within spec, when you keep the car idling the cel stays on, but if you try to jump the plug to pull codes, it wont flash...only stays on solid.

Tomorrow I'm going to do a valve adjustment, which I don't think will help- but it needs reguardless. It seems like an electronic problem, perhaps a bad burn on the chip?

 

It may be a bad chip! try burning another....aslo just becuase he makes a base map, doesnt mean it will run decent....what size injectors you are using? When i first started up my car on crome, i made a basemap...but i had to add alot of fuel to crank her up...an overall fuel multiplier for a particalar size injectors should usually work as a basemap to get the car started but sumtimes it might like a lil extra fuel...mine ended up being .23 with an offset of 40...and im running 1000cc precisions with fpr of 45...

So yeh definately double check your chip..sounds like it might be in limp mode...

What type of chip is he using by the way?? SST or AMtel?

 

The basemap is actually an earlier tune from my tuners car, it is tuned to 10psi but rich (thus why I consider it a basemap)... so that pretty much narrows it down to a bad burn I guess...

 

I'm not sure on what chip, i'll have to check tomrorow...

 

SST chip, i verified the chip before mailing it off.

need to validate you have it in the right way, since the SST chips don't have the arrow like the Atmel chips.

map is setup for a GM map sensor, you have that plugged in correctly.

map was setup for 1000cc injectors, 45psi, etc etc

 

yeh definately be sure its on the right way...or it will short circut and smoke! I learned the hard way lol..

 

it was in right, I removed it and put it back in making sure the pins were all in the holes, and none bent over...still doing the same ****

 

can the car idle by itself?
make sure ur 3bar measures around 1.6 volts at key on engine off( measure at A&B pin)

what vaccum is it idleing at? needs to be from 18-22"

 

it can't idle by itself, i'll have to check the other two tomorrow...

 

hey man the crome program sucks for idleing. Get the hondata S200 or 300. just last saterday I got my car dynoed and we had all sorts of problems with the ECU. My tuner slapped a hondataS300 in and it ran perfict I mean perfict. We ended up putting down 429hp/305tq outta a Ls/vtec w/ STOCK sleeve, rods, head, b16cams, 1000cc injectors. the Crome we could not get to idle and tryed for like 45mins. somtimes it cut at lights and is a little jurky on part throttle but still fun though.

 

There has to be a problem somewhere, this exact burn works on a setup that is almost dead on mine...

 

crome can idle just as well as hondata... and i'm a very pro-hondata person.

check map sensor voltage with car off, ensure you have ti all hooked up right, but the solid CEL to mean, is showing an ecu problem. Hell just mail me the chip back and i'll recheck it. I actually specifically pulled the details back off the chip and saved them as a new file, so I know it burned correctly, but maybe they xrayed the package or something and possibly erased the chip. never had it happen with any of the other 10-50 chips I've mailed out, but **** happens.

right now this is ecu related somehow, which really doesn't make any sense, as you had hondata last year and it worked, now with this chip, it should just fire right up, baring the differences in the cam.

Do you have a ZIF socket? aka quick release little blue thing? I have actually seen one of those fail before, so I pulled it out and popped the chip directly into the ecu and it worked.

 

ya make sure you have all the resistors sodered in you're ECU also I have ran Crome on a few cars now and Only one of them we got to Idle with. It is not as consistent as hondata. trust me I have had both and now I am kickin my my self for selling out to CROME, I am gonna be goning to an S300. If I spend thousands and thousands on my motor I should invest in somthing better then a stock honda ECU before I go boom and have to start over,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crome can idle just as well as hondata... and i'm a very pro-hondata person.

check map sensor voltage with car off, ensure you have ti all hooked up right, but the solid CEL to mean, is showing an ecu problem. Hell just mail me the chip back and i'll recheck it. I actually specifically pulled the details back off the chip and saved them as a new file, so I know it burned correctly, but maybe they xrayed the package or something and possibly erased the chip. never had it happen with any of the other 10-50 chips I've mailed out, but **** happens.

right now this is ecu related somehow, which really doesn't make any sense, as you had hondata last year and it worked, now with this chip, it should just fire right up, baring the differences in the cam.

Do you have a ZIF socket? aka quick release little blue thing? I have actually seen one of those fail before, so I pulled it out and popped the chip directly into the ecu and it worked.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, it's not a zif socket, just directly into the board. I'll pm you regarding the other chip...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spicyEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya make sure you have all the resistors sodered in you're ECU also I have ran Crome on a few cars now and Only one of them we got to Idle with. It is not as consistent as hondata. trust me I have had both and now I am kickin my my self for selling out to CROME, I am gonna be goning to an S300. If I spend thousands and thousands on my motor I should invest in somthing better then a stock honda ECU before I go boom and have to start over,</TD></TR></TABLE>

The program has nothing to do with the tune, as long as the program is capable of controling the parameters that need controlled (such as hondata, crome, uberdata, neptune, aem, etc) then whether or not your motor goes "boom" is solely up to the tune (barring any mechanical failures).

 

If you have a solid CEL try another ECU if you can

 

I don't really have access, but it is my luck that my ecu would take a **** just sitting there for 7 months... I guess i'll try to look around and find one.

 

new chip coming your way, bastard worked on my car tonight, so its definately not the chip

 

Latest news:

Tonight I pulled the ecu outta my car and stuck in in friends obd1 crx (just a sohc)... the ecu did the same thing. His cel stayed on, but his car would idle...just really rough, then about 4k it was like a studder box (like mine did at 1k).

I decided to try my old hondata chip, just to see if the cel would go off. So I stick the chip in, put it in my car and turn the key on, and in about 3 seconds smoke comes from the ecu. I had the cover off and saw where it came from, turned off the key, unplugged it...etc.. and here is what burned.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg Not sure what it is, says 031 or Q31 on the top side of it (cant really tell which) and r135 on the left side of it.

Anyone have any ideas what would cause this? The only thing I really changed that could affect it would be injectors (still using the same resistor box/wiring) and I went to an msd setup this year, but I'm sure I wired it correctly)... even if not, it seems like it'd fry the distributor before the ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Latest news:

Tonight I pulled the ecu outta my car and stuck in in friends obd1 crx (just a sohc)... the ecu did the same thing. His cel stayed on, but his car would idle...just really rough, then about 4k it was like a studder box (like mine did at 1k).

I decided to try my old hondata chip, just to see if the cel would go off. So I stick the chip in, put it in my car and turn the key on, and in about 3 seconds smoke comes from the ecu. I had the cover off and saw where it came from, turned off the key, unplugged it...etc.. and here is what burned.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg Not sure what it is, says 031 or Q31 on the top side of it (cant really tell which) and r135 on the left side of it.

Anyone have any ideas what would cause this? The only thing I really changed that could affect it would be injectors (still using the same resistor box/wiring) and I went to an msd setup this year, but I'm sure I wired it correctly)... even if not, it seems like it'd fry the distributor before the ecu.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check to make sure you dont have your MAP, AIT, etc. wiring backwards

 

I think map sensor wires touched and fried the ecu, but that doesnt explain the problem before. I'm gonna get a new p28 and a new chip and go from there I guess.

 

that looks like what happens when the resistor box isn't wired correctly or you have a power wire hitting a ground. I had a customer's car almost cook my ecu before due to that.

I found an Atmel chip for you and i'm mailing you that today.

The SST chip could be bad. I burned atleast 20 SST chips last night, on all of them, I was able to pull the code off the chip and open it up in Crome with zero problems, map looked perfect. yet when i threw the chip into my ecu on my car, I'd have a solid CEL. makes me wonder if my last batch of SST chips from moates was bad or something. either way, i tested the current chip on my car and if it doesn't work, i'll send a box of matches and gasoline

frankly, i'm stumped on the SST chips now, you erase, set the buffer offset to 8000 and program, then verify the chip. that works perfectly, but somehow the ecu isn't registering it.

 

Hope you all figure it out. I'm still thinking it has something todo with the MAP, AIT and such wiring. I have not used or worked with an OEM ECU in a long time. Maybe someone more familiar with them can elaborate on Q31 R135

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0x64 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hope you all figure it out. I'm still thinking it has something todo with the MAP, AIT and such wiring. I have not used or worked with an OEM ECU in a long time. Maybe someone more familiar with them can elaborate on Q31 R135</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only wiring that is changed from stock form is the map, and I have green to ground, white/yellow to signal, and yellow to power...

I'm going to check the resistance at the injectors to make sure everything is cosher there, but it sounds like a bad chip is the culprit of the solid cell.... Just dunno what the hell fried the ecu. I didn't have my valve conver grounded correctly...but thats all i've found so far. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that looks like what happens when the resistor box isn't wired correctly or you have a power wire hitting a ground. I had a customer's car almost cook my ecu before due to that.

I found an Atmel chip for you and i'm mailing you that today.

The SST chip could be bad. I burned atleast 20 SST chips last night, on all of them, I was able to pull the code off the chip and open it up in Crome with zero problems, map looked perfect. yet when i threw the chip into my ecu on my car, I'd have a solid CEL. makes me wonder if my last batch of SST chips from moates was bad or something. either way, i tested the current chip on my car and if it doesn't work, i'll send a box of matches and gasoline

frankly, i'm stumped on the SST chips now, you erase, set the buffer offset to 8000 and program, then verify the chip. that works perfectly, but somehow the ecu isn't registering it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you try to start your car w/the solid cel?

 

nah, i didn't attempt to start it, as my valve cover is off getting a few bungs welded onto it. the chip could not result in the ecu cooking, sooo.... you have atleast one more gremlin in the car somewhere.

the atmel chip coming towards you did not have a CEL on my car, so if you have issues with this one, matches and gasoline are the answer