<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nah, i didn't attempt to start it, as my valve cover is off getting a few bungs welded onto it. the chip could not result in the ecu cooking, sooo.... you have atleast one more gremlin in the car somewhere.

the atmel chip coming towards you did not have a CEL on my car, so if you have issues with this one, matches and gasoline are the answer </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not quite that pissed yet, but it's not far off as I'm short on patience. My brother in law has a p28 ready to go for me, so i just gotta figure out what was wrong... pm me your phone number again and I'll call you tonight if you aren't busy b/c I found something that could be the prob...

 

I found two wires that had been spliced going into my ecu, the connection on one of the wires was fine. That wire was a green/white wire from one of the two main harness plugs near the battery, and it goes to an orange wire on the middle sized plug of the ecu in spot b11 (B11-CYP P CYP -P Orange, CYP sensor input, N/A)

The other wire however, was either not touching at all, or barely touching on the ecu side... it had came loose, and I couldn't tell if it was still laying on the connector or not... this wire is a yellow/black from that same main harness plug (right beside the previously mentioned wire) and it goes to a green/white wire in spot a23 in the large ecu plug (A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V) Being as that is a ground, i'm assuming it could have caused my problem...anyone chime in?

I also need to know what the correct plug for the IAT is, I have two side by side in the harness that both fit, one is a grey plug w/2 wires (yellow/black and red/blue), the other is a green plug with one red/blue wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I also need to know what the correct plug for the IAT is, I have two side by side in the harness that both fit, one is a grey plug w/2 wires (yellow/black and red/blue), the other is a green plug with one red/blue wire.
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This is exactly what I was talking about. I have seen people mix up the MAP, IAT and other plugs. And I am almost certain the Q31/R135 ended up frying

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Latest news:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg Not sure what it is, says 031 or Q31 on the top side of it (cant really tell which) and r135 on the left side of it.

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Q31 is the transistor for your PCS (purge control solenoid) in the ECU. Fries out when you plug the PCS connector into your IAT sensor...VERY common.

As long as it didnt take out any traces or components on the board, your ECU will run just fine...just no PCS, who needs that anyways

 

ahahhaa..i had an obd2 AIT pluged into the PCS and it burned the **** out of the tip of the AIT sensor. (was on crome as well)

sorry i just thought it was funny. i hope everything works out.

 

alright, so what is the correct plug for the IAT on an obd1 dc2?

 

Should have a RED/YELLOW wire as one of the two...

 

I'll have to check again tomorrow...I believe I have 4 empty plugs right now, 3 small grey ones (all look the same I think) and the one green one. I know one goes to IAT, one to PCS, and one possibly to knock...not sure about the other though. In the mean time, if anyone can look at theirs and tell me exactly what two wire colors it is, that'd be great!

 

the knock sensor plug only has 1 wire going to it.

what harness are you using? b16/GSR/d?

FYI, your chip was sent to the taylor mill address, and I'd think it would arrive today.

 

Thanks man, I found the wire plug that matches up to my haynes manuals spec for the IAT...so no more probs there, i'll let you know how the new chip does later tonight (assuming it's in the mailbox at the shop, which I'm sure it is)...

 

your car boggles me now, the chip worked on my car, so why you are getting a solid CEL just boggles me.

 

any chance I should try a different ecu? or is there something else that could cause it?

 

is this the same ecu that cooked up?

 

yeah, but it didnt burn any other traces and everyone says that they will still run, only the PCS won't work...which I don't have anyway

 

well you assume that it will work..... know anyone else with a socketed ecu?

 

I think I may have a bad ground somewhere. I don't know if that could contribute to the solid cel or not. I didn't change any wiring, just pulled the motor, rebuilt it.. put it back in, same wiring, same ecu...etc. I turned on the headlights tonight, and on dim, the drivers bulb is really really bright, the passenger bulb is dim (about normal), then when you switch to bright the drivers side goes off, and the passenger side has both lights on, but they are dim. A friend of mine told me he had a similar problem and it was a bad ground... can anyone confirm? Also, could a bad ground cause the ecu to throw a solid cel?

 

i would check all ground they can make the car do wierd things been there done that

 

A bad ground can def F $**** up!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A bad ground can def F $**** up!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I know....just wanna know if it can cause my specific ECU probs?

 

i've had bad grounds cause all kinds of phantom problems, had one customer were his fuel pump would randomly turn off. grounds are critical.

 

I'm gonna clean up the valve cover, tranny, and water neck grounds today... any others I need to check? I have a haynes manual so I'm not sure if it will show them in there or not?

 

make sure you don't have any bare wires that could possible shorting out another ground in the chassis.

if you want, you can mail back the chips and I'll recheck them, but I know the atmel worked in my car, as the CEL went off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you don't have any bare wires that could possible shorting out another ground in the chassis.

if you want, you can mail back the chips and I'll recheck them, but I know the atmel worked in my car, as the CEL went off. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am going to try another p28 tomorrow with the good chip in it that you sent. I still have my old hondata chip too that should at least kick the cel off. I'm gonna look over all the grounds and wires, and go from there...

 

the hondata chip will have a CEL, but will start the car and run it just the same.

 

alright, well I'll try the new ecu with your good chip, and if no luck i'll try the hondata.... if neither works then the chip is obviously not the problem. I am leaning toward a bad ground. Possibly where i painted my transmission and didn't get the mating surface cleaned off good enough between the ground wire plate and tranny. I'll let you know tomorrow as soon as I know something.