Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

Here is the Start Up Video

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

Catch Can and Bov installed..

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

What's your plan for provisions for an air filter /intake to the turbocharger inlet, ( for the love of all that is reasonable, please don't say a screen) and radiator/fan combination?

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

Good question Shodan, I am still trying to figure that out. The turbo inlet is very close to the raditor fan which makes it hard for me to install a air filter / intake. If I go with a slim fan it will provide me more space but I have a few friends with turbo civic that had the slim fans and ended up switching back to the stock one because it cools better ( not sure how true that is)

Also I am a bit disappointed because the guy that sold me the turbo kit said it would be AC compatible but its not, the downpipe goes all the way to were the AC compressor is located. I really want AC since I will be using this car mostly as a daily, I looked into the GO-Autoworks AC turbo manifold and downpipe combo but now they are saying that it only supports a 5 bolt housing. Mine is 4 which sucks... So I am stuck at this point trying to see what the best option for me to keep AC. I would need to find someone that could make a custom downpipe with my setup if it can be done.

I welcome and appreciate any feedback from you or other fella's so I can finish my setup. Thanks

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Like with many things available in the U.S. there are endless choices of "slim fans", so you don't want to have that generalization in mind. My only recommendations will be SPAL & Zirgo (in that order) as puller fans. They are easily over 1500cfm and require even an upgrade in fan fuse (40A) because they draw that much power and cool instantly. Anything else, is honestly a waster of time and money.

You definitely need to change to a better radiator, and just some quick-fix eBay nonsense. The stock half sized radiator has quite a bit of trouble keeping coolant temps at under 200 degrees with most intercoolers near it. Having a better fan helps that situation, but a better radiator is in order here. My suggestion is Koyo 1570 or Skunk2 Alpha Radiator for this. Make sure that if you get the radiator at the same time as your fan, that the fan fits properly. The skunk2 fits the 12" SPAL fan best, while the Koyo fits the 13" SPAL fan best. Both from SPAL will flow the same. I can find part numbers for you if that will help.

Yes, that's true. Spoolin' Performance used to make A/C compatible setups that were T31 4-bolt with that tubular log manifold (which IMHO is better than the damn cast units for 5 bolt turbos anyway), and they made the downpipes at a steep angle to fit that, but they have stopped all production. You're better off having one made anyway, so that it can clear the A/C compressor as much as possible. Make sure that the downpipe is thermal wrapped.

Whatever you do, get a true intake system. No screens/ panty-hose (yes, some go that far) or just a filter on the end (hurts spool up of the turbo contrary to popular opinion). You can even find a nice used CAI from and NA car and cut it at the bends with some hose couplers to fit. Worst case scenario, have the intake bend down towards the floor of the bay, even if it's only about 3-4" in length. But use an intake. Save your turbo, no matter what anyone else says.

Personally, I never found the use for using A/C on these retrofit setups (and yes, I'm well-aware of how hot it gets in certain parts of the country and the world), but it simply wears the A/C compressor out that much faster. If you have other transportation that has A/C. Just use that car on a hot day and be done with it... If not, make sure that you have that downpipe made to fit the very exhaust you plan to use. The more you have ready for your fabricator, the less time in the bay the car will be for that fabricator to work their magic.

Really, that's it. I've found more than anything, getting parts in the right order is key , especially if you're not a fabricator and can't make everything fit perfectly the 1st time.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Another option for a fan would be Maradyne, I run the 12inch fan which produces 1700CFM and is cheaper than a SPAL. I used the Koyo half as well as a Mishimoto Fan Shroud. One of the best combos I have ever run, keeps my car around 195 when making full passes. Street driving in AZ summers never budged 201 as soon as it would get up to 198 and the fan kicked on it took seconds to drop the temps 10 degrees.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

im going to replace my radiator soon (maybe this week). i didnt know the skunk2 was a good radiator to purchase, nice! regardless in my situation ill have to get it tapped with a water fitting since i have a watercooled turbo. also im running a 14in zirgo fan and love it but my rad is from go autoworks and it looks like knock off rad you can buy from ebay for $50 bucks. i only know this because i had both in hand and theyre identical.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No you don't. Those use a M10 x1.5 drain fitting. You can get a M10x1.5 to -6AN aluminum adapter and keep rolling. Easy peasy, nice and greasy.

Vibrant Performance ::.

You'll need a rubber o-ring

Vibrant Performance ::.

You can them at Summit Racing
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-16614

boosted94gsr

Not sure if it's even an option for you with ac, but I've had very good results running a tucked scirocco radiator. I've never seen my coolant temp break 200* even in 100+ degree weather. Although if you go that route be prepared to do some custom fitting. The half radiators suggested above would definitely be an easier route. Just wanted to give you another option to think about.

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will be ordering one soon. I will pick one that has good reviews but also fits the budget, I will not pick one just because of the brand but one the does the job well. I will post pics once installed.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

As much as people don't want to hear this, unfortunately in many cases, brand name does matter, because brand image matters to the manufacturer, (generally speaking of course). Those that know me on this forum understand that I'm not the one just to spout out a brand name because of their existence, but because I've used it myself and it works. Otherwise, there's no point in mentioning it. Stop worrying about if one product is a "re-badged" version of something else or private label. You'll never know all of them. Just get the good stuff, and keep moving on. You asked the questions, so we're simply answering based upon our experience. There's no reason for us to lie to you.

Good luck.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

not sure if you remember but, is that the same size fitting for a Reaper?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's based upon a -6AN fitting. Any water fitting that goes to a -6AN to a radiator will work.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the edit
i just checked the fitting and its a -6 3/8 npt so ill have to order the vibrant fitting you suggested. ill just need to get a new water line made for this fitting since the distance is further away.now its the decision to decide to go with skunk2 (because its cheaper) or go with koyo (which has been proven for decades). since you have a koyo radiator, did you experience any hood clearance issues?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No. NO hood clearance issues using the Koyo Radiator. But I did shift my radiator lower mounting post over a few inches. But I have an Integra.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

i have a teg as well. i found the koyo radiator you suggested but it also has a different part number as well. HH080300 i think is the new number in which i have seen it reference the 1570. anyways, im looking at this rad ive seen on ebay but ill use this site as a reference
FRSport.com: Koyorad 48mm Aluminum Racing Radiator 92-00 Civic SI & 93-97 Del Sol

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

That I have no doubt about. I was also checking out the go-autoworks radiator and fan. I read a few reviews on other forums of people using them on turbo civics and tegs without any problems and they also have a great price $164 for both. The fan flows 1550 cfm. I am not trying to cheap out on parts but since I am on a tight budget I would like to get the best bang for the buck.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes. the H080300 is the newer (more ridiculous) part number to the R1570.

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

I am thinking of buying AEM fuel safe. Do you guys recommend it?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

As in fail safe Wideband? I don't use that product and a few do, with, mixed results. So, I can only say... "sure why not?"

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

lol I meant fail safe, I can't believe I put fuel safe lol. Thanks for the tip.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No Problem.. And stick to the Koyo/SPAL/Zirgo cooling plan...

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

I will stick to that, I might be getting a bonus this week at work so if I do I will most likely go that route. Ohh by the way I got a friend that is selling 2 turbos one holset hx35 and a comp turbo 6262 for a good price. He pointed out the fact that I will be maxing out my turbo at 450hp and that my build can easily reach 500+. Not sure if I should get the hx35, I wouldn't mind getting more power as long as is usable power. I am not sure at what hp range it becomes useless unless you have a bunch of stuff setup for it like lsd, slicks, traction control, etc.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, I've found that for most street use, 400whp-450whp is about as much as you really want to deal with even with those other stabilization devices in play. Whether or not you're truly "maxxing" the turbocharger out will be up to the tuner, when the time comes.

As for your turbo choices, everyone else knows my opinion, so I won't beat a dead horse.

Now, if you're dead set on using either the 6262 or the Holset HX35, please consider these factors:

Holset
-Easy to get information and serviceable parts when needed (although availability may be a bit more difficult than before)
-More easily suits the need for utility, reliability, and good responsiveness
-Turbine housing may be difficult to integrate, and converting to T31 and V-band turbine housings are not as difficult as before, but can be a bit of a problem depending upon turbine wheel you have. The usual aftermarket sources to modify these housings aren't as plentiful as they used to be.

Holset service catalogs to see

http://speedtrappconsulting.com/imag...2-35-38-40.pdf

http://speedtrappconsulting.com/imag...log%202007.pdf

Precision
-Too large of an application for your needs
-Many need to be rebuilt, and those that have, people tend to sell at "rock bottom" deals. It doesn't mean its necessarily bad, but, I'll say that either way, it's too large to use. (Forget that "in case you want to grow," nonsense.)
-If it does need to be reconditioned, expect to pay as much as a new one anyway. So if it goes, don't bother fixing it.
-You want to keep an eye on oil pressure with the Precision over the Holset. the journal bearings tend to not be as robust as the Holset.