Ok, well to start off i got a built block with arp head studs. i torque'd down my studs into the block and did the proper tightening sequence for the nuts. But the studs still loosened out of the block. everytime i cleaned out the hole where the studs go and i tried to make sure there was no air getting trapped under the stud by doing the wiggle method when installing them like a member on here suggested. They still seemed to loosen. i call ARP to ask if i can use loctite and they say its not a good idea and that i most likely have detenation. i dont hear any marlbes dropping in my engine bay and i dont have any white specs on my plugs. But does my timing look too aggressive? Also don't worry bout the higher rpm range as i only rev to 7200 and only partially tuned to 20lbs

 

want to know too...

but to your question... 19psi = 24° ... what fuel? what compression?
i would try to go down a few degrees and look what happens... but i think you will get other problems then loosing headstuds when you have detonation.

did you switch off the engine at peak tourqe to look after specs?

Best regards
Malte.

 

ya i think we need to know all the details of your setup and specs of your engine....i personally don't run that much timing

 

wow .. yes that looks aggresive . however i bet your h22 likes it. cuz i heard h22 LOVES timing.

 

now thats a lot of timing...lol!

as far as the head studs...i had the same problems. take 1 nut and throw it on the top of one head stud then take another nut and tighten down on top of the 1st one. now you can use a box end wrench and tighten the **** out of those studs...thats what i did. kinda like the "double wrenching method"....let me know if you understand what im trying to say because i think i just confused myself..lol!!!!


just dont go too far overboard on tightening them or else when(if) your head were to lift it would put too much stress on the block and most likely crack the block.

 

Oh this is on 110 octane with 10:1 compression

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh this is on 110 octane with 10:1 compression</TD></TR></TABLE>

hm, that makes something around 0,3°/psi i think thats a littlebit low...

i would try 0,4-0,5°/psi especialy with tha 10:1 CR ... but please let me know what advance is working if you find it out because i'am very interested in this issue because i also have a 10:1 CR engine...

Thanks
Malte.

 

ttt

 

You need to put the vehicle on a dyno & see if all that timing your running is even making you any power :-)

(Pull some timing until you loose a considerable amount of power)

 

*The problem is it won't make it to the dyno without the studs loosening up on me.*


Well i guess i didnt clearify myself earlier. I could really car less about the power i'm making. This is more about detenation. Since ARP said the reason my studs keep loosening is because of detenation and i read in another thread where Tony1 posted "Is it how ****** head had to be retorqued after every pass at the track? I guess so, that's not right, and it's a tuning issue. I saw the map..." And that sounds like the problem i'm having so i put 2 and 2 together and guessed it was my ignition map which was causing my stud loosening problem.

 

If you are worried about timing... why not pull a 2-3deg and see how it runs? You said you are trying to get it to the dyno for tuning, so why not? It does seem like a lot more timing then usual...


Modified by .nate at 7:27 AM 8/12/2005

 

on my timing map, at 20psi im usually at 16-18 degrees. youre running quite a bit of timing there bud. just back it down a few degrees at a time and see what happens. nothing dramatic will happen...just dont add any...haha!

 

it does seem like a tiny bit too much timing. back off to maybe 20 or 21 total degrees, see if you can drive it, then get it on a dyno to see if you are making power with the timing back in there. if not, pull it back out, and enjoy the boost

 

If your detonating enough to loosen your head studs, then thats the least of your problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t67civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on my timing map, at 20psi im usually at 16-18 degrees. youre running quite a bit of timing there bud. just back it down a few degrees at a time and see what happens. nothing dramatic will happen...just dont add any...haha!</TD></TR></TABLE>

H-series tends to run alot more timing than B-series right out of the box, apples to oranges.

 

so then is my timing fine for h-series?

 

so any h-series guys wanna chime in?