i'm getting black carbon deposits all over my block. my tial is leaking at the mating surface between the fire ring and the log manifold. i know metal gaskets are prone to blow out, but would that solve my issue? from what i read when i searched, i'm under the assumption i really shouldn't need a gasket there, but i guess the surface of either my mani, or the tial isn't 100%.
thoughts on fixing this?

thanx.

 

the tial fire ring is meant to swivel and help with the inequalities in flange surface to seal the valve. I would recommend NOT using the composite gasket that comes with the tial, instead use the one with the actual metal ring. The new tial gates come with a metal gasket that works rather well.


question: How long have you been running this setup ? ( some people don't understand what a fire ring really is, as turbonetics uses this to explain the metal ring in their composite gaskets, the metal ring in the tial gate is something different"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question: How long have you been running this setup ? ( some people don't understand what a fire ring really is, as turbonetics uses this to explain the metal ring in their composite gaskets, the metal ring in the tial gate is something different" </TD></TR></TABLE>

it's only been about 3 weeks. it didn't do it till about a week ago i noticed it. i don't drive this everyday though. maybe 2-3 times a week for fun. yeah, i think i know what the ring does. it's the seperate ring that has a "valve seat looking" side that goes toward the tial inner shaft. i have that right don't i? i would've thought this would've sealed fine metal to metal. btw, i'm rockin an sp mani . i checked, and it's bolted down tight. so, i can use a metal ringed gasket w/ the ring.
thanx.

 

don't run the gasket at all, the valve seat will seal it just fine

make sure you have the seat installed right

 

Was the wg flange on the manifold resurfaced after welding? Odds are it wasn't, and it's warped, and that's why you have a leak....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was the wg flange on the manifold resurfaced after welding? Odds are it wasn't, and it's warped, and that's why you have a leak....</TD></TR></TABLE>

i don't know if it was. so are there any remedies for this, other than having it surfaced?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thelate1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i don't know if it was. so are there any remedies for this, other than having it surfaced? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really but try some copper spray it helps seal slightly uneven surfaces

 

alright, thanx.

 

i pulled it off, and you can see where it was leaking. the metal ring gasket i have is in the pic. i think i'm gonna try that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was the wg flange on the manifold resurfaced after welding? Odds are it wasn't, and it's warped, and that's why you have a leak....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its a SP manifold so I am pretty sure its been resurfaced. Although I can't be certain but I do know that he is a pretty reputable fabricator?

 

From the pic, it looks to me like you just had a bolt loose... maybe try to torque both bolts 1/3 rotation at a time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SD_Lurker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its a SP manifold so I am pretty sure its been resurfaced. Although I can't be certain but I do know that he is a pretty reputable fabricator?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't ASSume that. Very few manifold fabricators that i've seen take the time to resurface flanges after welding.

How about pics of the flange with a straight edge across it?

 

i'm not knocking spoolins manifold in any way, let's make that clear!
i took the ring outta the tial, and held it on the flange. i do have a slight warp it look like.
i mean ever so slight. i'm wandering now, if it was just a bolt. they seemed tight though when i backed them out. it's so hard to get a wrench on the heads cause of the "tial" word on the cast. i had to use an open end. i don't want to use the gasket, if i don't absolutely need it. it'll just be something else to blow out.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thelate1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm not knocking spoolins manifold in any way, let's make that clear!
i took the ring outta the tial, and held it on the flange. i do have a slight warp it look like.
i mean ever so slight. i'm wandering now, if it was just a bolt. they seemed tight though when i backed them out. it's so hard to get a wrench on the heads cause of the "tial" word on the cast. i had to use an open end. i don't want to use the gasket, if i don't absolutely need it. it'll just be something else to blow out.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

use the allen heads that cam with the tial and use a small wrench to use as a " Torque arm"

before we used a small belt sander to resurface our flanges. However, we found that the machine did not have enough power to fully machine flanges flat, thus we looked that the mating surface was flat on the flange. Now we have a nice big 220 AMP sanding wheel that could take my arm off that removed material quickly. You may have recieved one of the older resurfaced manifolds. if you're to run that gasket it would help tremendously .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

use the allen heads that cam with the tial and use a small wrench to use as a " Torque arm"

before we used a small belt sander to resurface our flanges. However, we found that the machine did not have enough power to fully machine flanges flat, thus we looked that the mating surface was flat on the flange. Now we have a nice big 220 AMP sanding wheel that could take my arm off that removed material quickly. You may have recieved one of the older resurfaced manifolds. if you're to run that gasket it would help tremendously . </TD></TR></TABLE>

the tial was bought used, so no allens. yeah, this manifold is about 3 yrs old. i guess i'll use the gasket.

 

best way to take care of this is to have a machine shop 'grind' the flange flat on a surface grinder if it's not too awkward - a mill would be my second choice.

An experienced machinist would probably tell you to "**** off" if you suggest that they flatten your leaking flange with a belt sander lol.. I really mean that.

Ask them to check the flange on the wastegate as well for flatness.

nothing but permatex copper on my flanges. gaskets complicate things.

 

i just put it back together w/ the gasket. i would have to take my entire setup apart to have it grinded, so for right now it's gonna have too work. i might pick up the allen screws as well. what is the size again for the wastegate bolts? 12x1.25?
thanx

 

8X1.25

 

thanx.

 

got the hex bolts in. they worked great. i never gave it a thought to use them. got em tightened real good, so we'll see. thanx.