patdemps

Ok, Ill list my setup in the following post. But right now I want to go turbo. And was wondering what my options were. Now what I was wondering is if I sell some of the parts I am running currently I could buy a turbo kit. I guess what Im asking is what could I sell off my current setup that I don't need for a turbo kit or wouldn't be able to use with turbo. Also, throw me a ballpark figure on what I am going to spend on the turbo kit. I don't want to lose too much reliability in the car so I will not be running that high of a psi.....thanks guys.

patdemps

here's my setup.

95' GSR w/ 56,000 miles.

AEM ITR CAI
AEM Ported GSR T-body
Skunk 2 ITR Intake Manifold
DPR Stage 6 Headwork-- stainless steel, oversized, ceramic coated valves, titanium VTEC X-over pins, titanium retainers, ITR valvesprings, milling, clover-leaf welded combustion chambers. Flow-benched to match cams, Mugen Headgasket, 11.8 compression
Toda Racing Header
Carsound Cat
Kakimoto R ITR stainless steel 70mm catback
Apex-i VAFC
No P/S, A/C, Cruise Control
Energy Suspension Engine Mounts
Autometer oil pressure, oil temp, water temp and A/F gauges

Transmission:
Kaaz 1.5 Way LSD
JDM 4.785 FD
Type R Tranny (Brand New)
Fidanza 7lb. Aluminum Flywheel
Exedy Racing Street Clutch
Energy Suspension shifter busings
B&M Racing Short Shifter

Suspension:
Koni compression/rebound adjustable shocks
Neuspeed race Springs
Energy Suspension Hyperflex Bushing kit
Neuspeed front and rear upper strut tower bars
Comptech 22mm rear lower sway bar
Eibach Camber correction kit

b16ahybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here's my setup.

95' GSR w/ 56,000 miles.

AEM ITR CAI
AEM Ported GSR T-body
Skunk 2 ITR Intake Manifold
DPR Stage 6 Headwork-- stainless steel, oversized, ceramic coated valves, titanium VTEC X-over pins, titanium retainers, ITR valvesprings, milling, clover-leaf welded combustion chambers. Flow-benched to match cams, Mugen Headgasket, 11.8 compression
Toda Racing Header
Carsound Cat
Kakimoto R ITR stainless steel 70mm catback
Apex-i VAFC
No P/S, A/C, Cruise Control
Energy Suspension Engine Mounts
Autometer oil pressure, oil temp, water temp and A/F gauges

Transmission:
Kaaz 1.5 Way LSD
JDM 4.785 FD
Type R Tranny (Brand New)
Fidanza 7lb. Aluminum Flywheel
Exedy Racing Street Clutch
Energy Suspension shifter busings
B&M Racing Short Shifter

Suspension:
Koni compression/rebound adjustable shocks
Neuspeed race Springs
Energy Suspension Hyperflex Bushing kit
Neuspeed front and rear upper strut tower bars
Comptech 22mm rear lower sway bar
Eibach Camber correction kit


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sell the following items:
your cai, and header.How much was milled off the head? put a stock head gasket back in, and sell your gauges, they won't help much, unless you want to keep tabs on the engine they won't hurt either.
A safe kit can be any kit if tuned properly. Expect to spend about $3,500 +/- a little for a comlete ready to run kit. drag, revhard, both make complete kits ready to bolt on, that will make decent power at a low boost setting.Another option for you would be to build your ow kit, since you already have the v-afc get some larger (450cc) injectors and a high flow fuel pump. That will take car of your fuel,
You could probably make your own kit for about $2k-$2,500...

patdemps

Thanks man ......I've been hearing Revhard, Drag and Greddy.....I'd like to run anywhere around 250 whp. So, im not asking a crazy amount. I want a daily driver and reliable so I plan on the proper tuning and maintenance.

quikB18B

ok sell your cai, header, and forgot to read how big is that exhaust you may want to go with a 3 inch but dont have to. Also definetely lose the mugen headgasket. Skunk manifodl is good. I say you can sell your parts and get atleast $500 for them and then afterhourzracing.com sels revhard 2c for $2850 shipped, comes with everything you need to make 260 whp running around 7 psi. so looks like ull only spenmd about $2,00 or so and then may want to pick up soem greddy gauges boost/egt

b16ahybrid

I was runing short on time earlier so i didn't have a chance to post everything i wanted to.
Ayways if you go with a kit it's going to come with a fmu and inline pump that you'll probably sell to get some larger injectors. that way you can do the v-afc hack.
I would recomend doing your own kit because it may save you a little money.
Pick up a drag or custom manifold from sfp. $350
then find a good used intercooler or new custom one online for about $350
check cheapturbo.com for a nice t3t4 turbo $540 shipped. + tial 35mm wg $200.
then check jegs, or local muffler shop for some u-bend pipes (mandrel bent) for your downpipe and charge pipes $100
then either pick up a new bov or used from most anywhere. $100-$200
You have the v-afc, so pick up a high flow walbro 255lph fuel pump, and either a set of used rc 450cc injectors or used dsm injectors.
Then I recomend getting a msd btm to control your timing, that should be good for about 10psi and it will get you close to your 250whp.
Don't forget your plugs ngk bcpr7es-11's..
then you will have quality parts and save a little money
or go with a complete kit like the drag kit, sell the fmu and fuel pump to get a intank pump,btm, and injectors. and you won't have to mess with doing any custom work

disguy409

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have the v-afc, so pick up a high flow walbro 255lph fuel pump, and either a set of used rc 450cc injectors or used dsm injectors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you mean get the intank or the inline or both? I always get confused about this.

quikB18B

run an intank 255 hp walbro, but i dont see the point in larger injectors for low boost, i stay stay basic and KISS it. Currently im piecing together and its costing me about the same price as a complete kit, but i have some nice parts in KIT. I started out with a revhard kit, i think its a great beginners kit, which will net your goals with no problems. no need to make thigns difficult especially if this is your first turbo set-up

patdemps

Right now I have a 70mm kakimoto Full exhaust. I should be able to keep this correct? And a carsound cat.

Thanks for the replies and help. This is all looking good

T3T495GSR

250whp should be attainable

b16ahybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by disguy409 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

do you mean get the intank or the inline or both? I always get confused about this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a intank, i'm not a fan of the inline and you definatly don't need both.

b16ahybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikb20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">, but i dont see the point in larger injectors for low boost, i stay stay basic and KISS it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Larger injectors + v-afc = more control over the tune of the engine. Since he already has the v-afc it's in his best intrest to go with larger injectors and use the afc to control them.
i'm also not a advocate of high fuel pressure, the lower your fuel pressure the better. (assuming your using a fmu set-up.)

patdemps

thanks

turbopanda

click on the link in my signature

Rah Rah

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Larger injectors + v-afc = more control over the tune of the engine. Since he already has the v-afc it's in his best intrest to go with larger injectors and use the afc to control them.
i'm also not a advocate of high fuel pressure, the lower your fuel pressure the better. (assuming your using a fmu set-up.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. I have 440's w/ hondata and my fuel pressure doesn't go past 55 psi (if I remember correctly) under full boost (I know, I know, I'm a wuss for only boosting 6.5 psi ) . The fmu is sort of a bandaid if you ask me and it's not as precise as an a/f controller or standalone. I prefer standalone's, but like you said, he's already got the v-afc.

tx99gsr

Email me about the toda header, I may be interested. jintexas18@yahoo.com
Thanks! Jason.

quikB18B

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Larger injectors + v-afc = more control over the tune of the engine. Since he already has the v-afc it's in his best intrest to go with larger injectors and use the afc to control them.
i'm also not a advocate of high fuel pressure, the lower your fuel pressure the better. (assuming your using a fmu set-up.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

well what about selling vafc and picking up a hondata, RC 550cc and then tuning way better imo then getting a vafc and trying to tune your a/f with that using bigger than stock injectors.

Like i said KISS (keep is simple stupid)

tx99gsr

Is the header still for sale? I got your IM yesterday but it would not let me reply, don't know what that was about. But anyways I'm still interested.

Thanks, Jason, jintexas18@yahoo.com

tx99gsr

Bump