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To piggyback on this point, I hope vacuum line isn't using turbo compressor cover as a boost reference... That almost always leads to boost creep.
Interesting, do you mind elaborating on this point as I'm trying to analyze why that would be. I ran my 3-port solenoid tee'd off of the comp cover to the wastegate bottom port and 3-port inlet.
When it was disconnected all I can remember is that it was connected to the right side of the turbo (I'm assuming thats the compressor side)
that is correct. You do not want to have the compressor side hooked up to that part of the wastegate. Especially with such a strong push lock fitting vacuum line. That is going to cause a lot of creep more than anything else. You want to use the intake manifold as your boost reference source. (Yes,yes, I know all about the diagrams that you've seen online. With something as efficient as the turbocharger you're using, that diagram will not apply).
I'll leave you to it and good luck with whatever you choose.
So things finally worked out for me and goal was made! Cant even explain how happy I am. Oh btw 2nd harness from CJ wiring didnt work either and when replaced with a stock harness the car runs fine. Guy doesnt want to take ownership of the issue.
The Shodan please explain why it matters if you use turbo compressor outlet as boost sorce for the wastegate?
Because something that may be the strongest vacuum source may not be the most accurate vacuum source. It can cause some false readings that could affect the tune.
Intake manifold is the most accurate source of vacuum, as it gives a better reference of what amount of pressure is actually going into the combustion chamber
Are you talking of a MAP sensor now? The turbo doesn´t create any vaccum..
But the question was how takeing boost from the turbo outlet for the wastegate and boost controll effects boost creep or do you refer to that the push lock fittings are prone to leaks?
Are you talking of a MAP sensor now? The turbo doesn´t create any vaccum..
But the question was how takeing boost from the turbo outlet for the wastegate and boost controll effects boost creep or do you refer to that the push lock fittings are prone to leaks?
No, I know exactly what I said. Boost reference sources are based on specific vacuum. Not sensors.
Boost creep can easily occur from too strong of a boost reference source, which is actually a source of vacuum that the wastegate has to be able to see due to its diaphragm/ spring design which is meant to be able to react based upon vacuum that turns into positive pressure. No different than looking at your boost gauge. There's vacuum, and then there's positive pressure based upon that boost reference source vacuum. It doesn't just start from zero to positive pressure. It actually starts from a vacuum source measured in in/Hg.
Having a push lock fitting, versus a barb fitting , really doesn't have that much to do with it. As long as they are sealed hoses that are not prone to collapse , then you should be able to get a very good reference source without a whole lot of issues. The only time that I feel that Boost Creep could be an issue based upon the fitting or hose type, is if the hoses is low-quality and is prone to collapse, while experiencing positive pressure.
I use those type of pneumatic fittings in some places and I have experianced that they can´t deal to good with heat ad therefor leak.. But as long as they don´t get exposed to to much heat I have not had a single problem.. I still don´t understand how you get vaccum from the turbo or how takeing pressure from the turbo to controll the wastegate can cause creep.
I use those type of pneumatic fittings in some places and I have experianced that they can´t deal to good with heat ad therefor leak.. But as long as they don´t get exposed to to much heat I have not had a single problem.. I still don´t understand how you get vaccum from the turbo or how takeing pressure from the turbo to controll the wastegate can cause creep.
If I may speculate based on what @TheShodan said; it has to do with a difference in pressure (pressure differential) between the turbo outlet and intake manifold (there is a pressure drop between compressor housing and intake manifold due to intercooler and piping losses). So some setups may not be affected by it and others that are very sensitive to pressure levels can experience boost creep due to the solenoid receiving 30 psi for example but the MAP sensor reading from the intake manifold only seeing 27 psi for example.
This 3 psi differential can cause it to "add too much" thereby actually seeing boost levels 3 psi higher than target. This should only really then apply to ECU controlled boost systems and even more so in a closed loop configuration right ?
There is no vacuum per se at the compressor outlet, but the boost solenoid doesn't use vacuum to operate.
No, I know exactly what I said. Boost reference sources are based on specific vacuum. Not sensors.
Boost creep can easily occur from too strong of a boost reference source, which is actually a source of vacuum that the wastegate has to be able to see due to its diaphragm/ spring design which is meant to be able to react based upon vacuum that turns into positive pressure. No different than looking at your boost gauge. There's vacuum, and then there's positive pressure based upon that boost reference source vacuum. It doesn't just start from zero to positive pressure. It actually starts from a vacuum source measured in in/Hg.
Having a push lock fitting, versus a barb fitting , really doesn't have that much to do with it. As long as they are sealed hoses that are not prone to collapse , then you should be able to get a very good reference source without a whole lot of issues. The only time that I feel that Boost Creep could be an issue based upon the fitting or hose type, is if the hoses is low-quality and is prone to collapse, while experiencing positive pressure.
If I were to swap my vacuum source from my compressor housing to the intake manifold, would I need a retune for the boost controller settings?
If so, depending upon how you're adjusting it (Laptop, independent, or even manual controller) only a little to compensate for target boost pressure.
I have an s300 with boost by gear. Since it will still try and target the same boost pressure, would it still need adjusting since the ecu reads off the map?
Nice build, glad you have it all finished up. Have some questions, does a kit come with everything needed to turbo a car. I was looking at the Go Autoworks kit. I'm not talking about the fuel or ignition systems aspect of but the solenoids, and other small pieces.
Nice build, glad you have it all finished up. Have some questions, does a kit come with everything needed to turbo a car. I was looking at the Go Autoworks kit. I'm not talking about the fuel or ignition systems aspect of but the solenoids, and other small pieces.
An actual kit will come with all of the components needed to physically turbocharge the car. A boost solenoid/EBC isn't one of those necessary pieces. It is an accessory to be added on and typically won't be included in the cost of a kit itself
04-16-2018, 05:13 AM
Re: Terance's 600hp Street/Track Build
