Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

I have an issue regarding the bolts/nuts for my manifold turbo combo.

The HKS manifold is designed for the studs to come upward.
*notice the front bolts could be bolted from TOP down, but the rears can only be bolted BOTTOM up (since they go upward into the runners)





The Apexi P13 turbo however is designed for the studs to come TOP down.





I could just weld them together... lol.

This sounds stupid but I think I need a T25 to T25 "adapter" plate.
That way the plate that would allow me to bolt the manifold studs BOTTOM up & the turbo studs TOP down.


Any idea on who would make such a plate even it if it custom?

LightningTeg

Just use bolts? Or tap threads in the manifold

powerneedy

really, this is not that hard. buy studs, stud the mani, use nuts to put the turbo on...

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

Notice that the "2 front holes" of the manifold will bolt onto the P13 just fine....

But the issue is the "2 back holes".
The turbo manifold has threaded holes going INTO the turbo(into the cast runner)
The P13 has threaded holes too, but on the exit side there is no room at all for a nut, let alone trying to screw a stud upward.

Westrock2000

To be honest, I don't think its going to work without adding at least an inch or more of distance between the manifold and turbo. You could make an adaptor plate, but it would be need to be twisted or rotated slightly because you can't use 2 bolts back to back. They would need to either be offset from each other or have a significant amount of space between them, so that you can get the thread into the holes. You might also be able to weld a V-band inbetween them so that your clamping from the side.

But, its more just a simple case of "not compatible" I think. You could weld them together if you don't have any future plans for them seperatly. Just make sure they are compatible metals.

LightningTeg

why dont you weld studs in where you need them?

Westrock2000

He can't because he has two mating surfaces that require bolts to go "in". If you weld in the stud, you won't be able to screw it in to the opposite flange.

LightningTeg

How so? Each side "expects" studs to secure them to the other piece. So if studs are welded in to say the turbo, then it fits the requirements of the manifold needing studs to come through.

Or just drill out the threads in the turbo flange where needed and run 2 studs off the back and bolts up front

Tony the Tiger

It's not what you think... The HKS manifold side has holes that protrude through the manifold itself on the engine block side (and is threaded). The turbo side also has threads, but you'd notice that there is no room to fit any type of nut or bolt on the driver side of the turbine flange (check out the pics). Drilling out the threads or studs/nuts will not solve this dilemma.

I have the HKS manifold before so I know what he's talking about.



Even if you had an adapter plate, it has to be very tall.. It will be one flange thickness + approx 1.5" of pipe length (to allow clearance for a set of studs and nuts on both sides) + another flange thickness. You will also need 8 studs and 8 nuts... Your turbo will be hanging low, and looks pretty stupid IMO.

I would get a fab shop and have them weld on V-band flanges on both the turbo and manifold. Purchase a 2" V-band set, and weld V-band flanges on both sides. This will eliminate the need for any nuts and bolts, and keeping it as low profile as possible (less than 1" overall height increase), and no more gaskets or leaks, and you can spin the turbo at any rotation.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

^^Nice!!! I was trying to help him with this situation, and after measuring both, I wasn't coming up with anything good. This seems to be the BEST option.

Good Call!!

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

any idea where to find 2" v-band? and how much do they go for?
I thought I couldn't weld stuff onto the cast iron....

Tony the Tiger

You will need to find a good fab shop that is experienced with turbo related jobs... If they can weld a flange onto a cast iron turbine housing properly, then they can also weld the V-band flanges for you.

If there are any doubts, you can also build an external brace using those existing threaded holes I see on the pictures. I am sure you can rig up a custom bracket to hold the turbo and take the weight stress off the welded joint.

To further relieve the stress on the welded joint, you may want to build a sturdy bracket on the downpipe as well (bracket that bolts the downpipe onto the block or transmission) so that your welded joint is barely supporting any weight (which prevents failures in case the weld is not 100% perfect).

For 2" V-band flanges, I know Vibrant makes one.. You can also check out the fabrication forums and visit the vendor links for hardware and such. I know you can also grab some off Ebay, but make sure you get something nice... The OBX ones would work, but I'd use them as a last resort.