darn thing... half way into my turbo install the jb bond on the oil pan to return line breaks apart...shoulda used fitings

 

ya that **** sucks...especially on oily parts

 

thats why you do it the right way and get that **** welded.

gl with the rest of the install, thats just a minor set back. that is unless you dont have another car.

 

At least it didn't break while you were driving home from Jotech and dump oil all over the downpipe you just had made.

I learned my lesson about JB Weld back then.

 

yeah im gonna weld it with my stick welder, but u think it'll burn through the sheet metal? eh ill try it tomorrow

 

It's been a loooong time since I messed with arc, but I bet it'll do fine.

 

Damn that is almost exactly what happened to me, but on my way to Jotech. damn that is hella weird.

 

you guys are soul mates, make many babies

forgot that chris is taken by his female soulmate

chris you find any more work to do on your car heh, you must be polishing the muffler bearings by now waiting for the parts.

 

stupid jb weld, or stupid u for using jb weld for that?

 

i used JB weld as a temporarty charge pipe sealer(flared 2.5id over 2.5 od) because we didnt have enough rubber hose and hose clamps. It worked great until it saw any pressure or flex

 

Using JB weld is just like doing real welding. It's all about the preparation work. I've used JB weld to fix lots of things that would have otherwise been junk, and it's great for sealing pin-hole leaks in real welds if they need to hold air or oil, but I don't think I'd use it exclusively on an oil return. Even if you can't get a complete bead with your arc welder, the weld will take all the stress, and you can cover the joint with JB to seal the oil. The heat level of the oil is not going to be a problem for JB weld, it can work at that temperature for a long time without breaking down. Hell, I've got an intake valve seat in my riding mower that's held in with JB weld. It lasts about 8 months at a time before the JB gives out, and it's literally inside the chamber of the motor, being exposed to whatever temp the fuel is burning at.

-Chris

 

I bought a car once where the PO tried to fix a cracked oil pan (also the transmission case in that car) with JB Weld. It just formed a stalactite of epoxy and 10w/30, and still let out a quart or so every hour. Some decent prep work and it might have been fine, but this guy obviously didn't try.

I'm still going to kick his *** when I find him.

On-topic, I used JB weld to seal up an intake manifold grommet on one of my turbos, and it's been holding fine to 15 psi. I don't trust it not to crack though...

 

I have a cheapy arc welder that cant weld worth shi7.. anyway... if you're going to jb something and have a sh1tty arc welder like I do, just tack on 2-3 small welds on the mating parts, then JB it up. haven't had a problem on 2 oil pans, and 3 BOV flanges.

 

Im going to use JB on my ghetto starion setup until I can save up for a better IC. From what I've heard it will hold the boost fine but if you hit a a really hard bump it might go.

 

I think brazing may be an easier option.

-Dustin

 

yeah i thought about brazing it also but didnt want to go look for the torch in my garage so i welded it.. i first used a smaller gauge electrode at 70amps and it burnt a hole thruogh the pipe so then i tried a thinker electrode at 90 and it worked better...maybe its just me but stick welders are really crappy