Ek00fbp

My dad knows a lot about legal work and has been doing legal work for some guy who has been working on cars for years. My dad and this guy plan on designing a fuel cell for cars to run off of Hydrogen. My point is, the guy is very mechanicaly inclined when it comes to cars, "he does quarter mile racing" (his sisters words). I called the guy today to see if he would want to help me install my turbo and it sounds like he will. The thing I am concerned about is if he knows all the up-to date things that go for b-series engines.

I just basically would like a rundown of installing everything. I read the site http://www.cse.uconn.edu/~yelevich/turbo/turbo.html but I would still like additional help. What do you all suggest? also what are you thoughts about me going to this guy?





[Modified by Fbp00si, 5:01 AM 2/9/2003]

Farnsrocket

Has he worked on hondas?

IntegD

As far as the kit goes..its pretty much bolt on. Just jack up the car, take the bumper off and drain the oil. Then remove the header and intake system. Assuming you have the rest of the parts ready and together, i.e., oil pan welded for return and wastegate, turbo, downpipe, and manifold mounted together, just pretty much bolt the manifold to the head.

The intercooler will require a little tiny bit of thought on how to mount it, but most either drill into the front support beam for mounting or use some ghetto *** zip ties or custom make a bracket or two. From here, just bolt the charge pipe up(easier if blow off valve is already on) and the connect to throttle body and other U pipe with couplings. Connect U pipe to intercooler and then connect the other pipes from the compressor housing to the other side of the intercooler(drivers side). Use all hose clamps and couplings.

Oiling things up...make sure you tighten the oil return line down in both spots(the earls stainless lines and fittings are really nice and look good too). As far as feed goes, (hopefully your kit came with fittings and whatnot), just screw the fitting into the top of the center section, and you will also need to T into the back of the block where the oil pressure unit is. Some people are against it, but your kit probably came with a T that you can run to the back of the block, and connect your feed line and your stock sensor into.

If you got a kit, it probably came with an FMU and an inline pump. The fmu just goes to the fuel line(from the bottom of regulator I think, I've never ran one.) T into existing vaccuum lines for the vaccuum part. The pump just goes in between the rail and the filter. Wire the positive to battery and negative to chassis ground.

Vaccum lines should then be hooked up. Most run a seperate line for the blow off valve, and tap into existing manifold lines for the wastegate and boost controller, etc.

Make sure to fill the car with oil and bolt downpipe to cat. Dont forgot the O2 sensor. I think thats pretty much it. Good luck.

Sleepin'

Wow, was that a mouthful!

Ek00fbp

he said he has been working on cars for thirty years when I asked.

IntegD I am probably getting the full race kit. I dont think it comes with an fmu. I am probably going to get aem ems.

Why do I neet a "T" when connecting it to the back of the block? I thought there is just a plug there that I unscrew and then screw it in? And when you say inline pump is that for fuel right? I dont think mine comes with that either. Check out http://www.full-race.com to see what I mean. I am buying my turbo seperate fyi.

p.s. thanks for taking the time to answer.

As for installing guages i.e. boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure, egt temperature, water temp, a/f ratio. How can I install those.

Also the guy mentions something about heat temperatures for the spark plugs, you think he was talking about getting colder plugs ?

IntegD

Yeah..my buddies and I runthe NGK BKR7E-11. Those are 2 steps colder I believe.

As far as the block goes, u need to keep your sensor, and if you just unplug it and let it hang, I mean, I dunno. I just would want to keep it, meaning you have two inputs and only one hole(the block hole). Hence, when you get a "T" fitting, it will have three holes, one for the block side, one for the oil feed to turbo, and one for your stock sensor.

The FMU and inline pump are for fuel, and if you are getting a top notch management like AEM, I guess you wont need those.

Ok...guages.

Boost gauge just taps into a vaccuum line(just T into one) and the lighting is pretty basic, one power and one ground. We usually mount the power to the fuse that has the instrument lights, that way it lights up when you turn your lights on.

Fuel presssure gauge, I have the B and M one and it goes right on top of the fuel filter. It should come with the available hardware to mount.

Never done an EGT before but I know you have to drill a hole in your manifold or downpipe to read the exhaust temps. Then the sensor screws in there and that is how it reads.

Never done water temp..I'm sure it connects to the ECT somehow or someway.

Ok..lastly, the A/F ratio....what kind did you get? The autometer stinks from my experience but its a cool light show. There is a few places that you can tap I believe but we just go straight to the source and go to the white wire on the O2 sensor wire.

Tried to help....

filetofit

Get a Sawz-all and a big file. Apply liberally, swear at --->(insert kit manufacturer's name here)<---. Promise yourself that your next car you'll leave stock. Wonder why the f*** you didn't believe anyone on H-T when they said a turbo is a PITA.

genop

Hydrogen fuel cell my ***. The worlds top engineers cant even come up with a cost effective way to do it yet. If this "guy that has been working on cars for years" and your dad can make it work, I will personally buy the first one. (but it wont happen!)

Ek00fbp

This is how I broke down the instructions, if anyone wants to add anything that would be great.

Installing kit:

1) Jack up the car, take the bumper off and drain the oil.

2) Remove header and intake system

3) Bolt wastegate, turbo, downpipe, and manifold together, and bolt the manifold to head

4) Mount intercooler by drilling into upper support beam or custom make a bracket or two.

5) Connect charge pipe to intake manifold and other end to intercooler (easier if blow off valve is already on) use all hose clamps and couplings

6) Tighten oil return line down in both spots (oil pan & on turbo). (Earls stainless lines and fittings are really nice)

7) Connect feed line fittings and line into center section and rout line to back of block and connect to a “T” (one side for oil feed, other side for oil pressure sending unit sensor, and third side into block).

8) Vacuum lines should then be hooked up. Most run a separate line for the blow off valve.

9) Tap into existing manifold lines for wastegate and boost controller etc.

10) Make sure to fill car with oil and bolt down pipe to cat. Don’t forget the O2 sensor

11) Prime turbo by adding some oil to housing

Installing Gauges:

1) Boost gauge taps into a vacuum line (just T into one) and lighting is basic (one power and one ground). It is best to mount the power to the fuse that has instrument lighting, that way it lights up when you turbo on your lights.

2) Fuel pressure gauge:

3) Oil pressure gauge:


4) Egt temperature gauge: Drill a hole in manifold or down-pipe to read the exhaust temps, then the sensor screw into there and that is how exhaust temperature is read

5) Water temp gauge:

6) a/f ratio gauge: go to white wire on the O2 sensor wire

Can anyone elaborate on number 8 (installing vacuum lines)? Also on the ones that dont have any instructions or could be clarified. Thanks again for everyone's help. Maybe they could make something like this sticky.

PrecisionH23a

DRAG Generation 3 Installation Manual
Turbo kit Installation Instructions
Generation III System
This manual is for the 1994-2001 Integra kit. However, sections of this manual can be applied to the 1992-2000 Civic kit because of the similarities in the two kits.
Any re-print, re-publish, or use, other than for personal reference, of this document is strictly prohibited by Importparts.com and DRAG COMPETITION PRODUCTS.

These instructions are provided for the benefit of the end user. Installation should only be performed by a certified technician.

DRAG COMPETITION PRODUCTS assumes no liability for any personal injury and/or mechanical failures resulting from the installation and use of this product. THIS PRODUCT IS FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY.

Installation Procedure

1) Remove factory air box assembly, strut tower bar and disconnect negative terminal side of battery.

2) Add second fuel pump.
Cut the rubber fuel line approximately 1 1/2 inches from the fuel filter. Assemble supplied fuel pump with the shorter brass fitting. Insert hose barb connector into the 1 1/2 inch rubber fuel line extending from the fuel filter. Connect supplied rubber fuel line to barb connector and the second fuel pump. Connect stock rubber fuel line extending from fuel rail to the banjo fitting of the second fuel pump. Secure all lines with hose clamps. Note: Use the supplied hose clamp to secure the fuel pump to the air conditioning line. Ground the fuel pump to the engine or chassis. Using a wire tap connector, connect the positive terminal of the fuel pump to pin 4 of the factory fuel pump main relay located underneath the dash board (the main relay is a gray box which clicks when the ignition is turned on). Note: you must use a minimum of 14-gauge wire to connect the fuel pump terminal and relay. Reconnect the negative terminal and turn key to ignition position two and check for any fuel leaks. Repeat the process 3-4 times. Note: when connected properly, the fuel pump will run for about a second and then shut off. If the fuel pump constantly runs after the ignition is turned on, then the fuel pump is tapped into the wrong pin -- disconnect wire and connect to pin 7.

3) Disconnect negative terminal of battery.

4) Install boost dependent fuel pressure regulator.
Remove factory return line from factory fuel pressure regulator (located on the fuel rail). Secure factory return line to boost dependent fuel pressure regulator on the fitting labeled "OUT". Connect the fuel line on the boost dependent regulator to the factory fuel pressure regulator. Secure the boost dependent regulator to the strut tower. Cut the factory vacuum line that goes to the stock fuel pressure regulator. Connect the boost dependent regulator to the vacuum line using a t-connector. Reconnect battery and start engine. Make sure there are no fuel leaks. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

5) Remove the stock exhaust manifold and down pipe. File down the webbing of the engine block located beneath the left side of the exhaust manifold. The block needs to be filed away approximately 1/4" to 1/2" to make room for the turbo compressor housing.

6) Loosen center section of turbo and install the turbo onto the turbo exhaust manifold.

7) Install the 90 degree "AN" fitting to the center section (DO NOT use any Teflon tape and/or silicone on the fitting). Rotate the center section until the "AN" fitting hits the turbo mounting bolt on the exhaust manifold. Back the "AN" fitting off the bolt so that it does not conduct heat. Tighten the exhaust side of the center housing.

8) Attach the turbo exhaust manifold so that it can be used to align the oil drain return pipe to the center housing and oil pan. The return pipe should be attached to the oil pan next to the bolt located on the shallow end of the oil pan and on the opposite side of the drain bolt. Mark the oil pan so that the oil return pipe can be attached to it.

9) Remove the oil pan. Drill a hole in the oil pan to allow the oil to return and weld the return pipe onto the pan as marked. Reinstall the oil pan.

10) Line up compressor housing so that the nozzle faces down. Tighten one bolt on the compressor housing. Remove turbo and exhaust manifold. Tighten all bolts on the compressor housing.

11) Place rubber hose on the oil return pipe extending from the oil pan. Place two hose clamps around the rubber hose. Install the turbo and exhaust manifold by inserting the center housing's oil return fitting into the rubber hose on the oil return pipe and then sliding the exhaust manifold onto the head. Tighten all nuts/bolts.

12) Secure hose clamps on the oil return pipe and center housing oil return fitting.

13) Remove oil pressure sending unit located to the left of the oil filter and replace with brass t-fitting using Teflon tape. Connect oil-sending unit to brass fitting. Connect supplied brass "AN" fitting to t-fitting using Teflon tape. Attach steel braided line to "AN" fitting (do not use Teflon tape). Route braided line across the transmission side of the engine and connect to the center housing (do not use Teflon tape when connecting to the center housing).

14) Remove bumper cover and bumper beam. Align intercooler along bumper beam, with the 2" port facing the driver side, so that it is centered and the bracket of the intercooler is flush with the rear of the bumper beam. Warning: make sure the intercooler is as close as possible to the radiator.
If you do not get it close enough, then you will have to cut the bumper. Mark the bumper beam and drill. Install the intercooler using nuts and bolts. Reinstall bumper beam.

15) Place silicone hose over turbo compressor outlet. Connect pipe 1 to compressor outlet. Cut a hole in the driver side front splash guard so that pipe 2 can connect to pipe 1. Attach pipe 2 to pipe 1 with silicone hose (make sure pipe 2 is pressed flush with pipe 1). Connect pipe 3 to pipe 2 with silicone hose. Connect other end of pipe 3 to intercooler with silicone hose. Install 90-degree rubber boot on the short end of pipe 4. Connect longer end of pipe 4 to the intercooler with silicone hose (make sure the boot faces up after pipe 4 is installed). Place silicone hose onto throttle
body. Connect pipe 5 to throttle body first and then to rubber boot (make sure bypass valve is attached to pipe 5 before installing). Secure all hoses with hose clamps.

16) Install aluminum adapter pipe to turbo inlet with silicone hose. Attach pipe 6 to adapter pipe with silicone hose. Secure all hoses. Attach air filter to end of pipe 6.

17) Remove map sensor (located on top of the throttle body) and replace with plastic 90 degree fitting of map sensor bypass assembly. Connect stock map sensor to bypass assembly. Secure map sensor bypass assembly with wire ties.

18) Install down pipe.

19) Install wastegate and wastegate dump pipe. Install 90-degree brass fitting on the side of the wastegate where it is labeled "boost" and connect to intake manifold vacuum source.

Installation Supplement

Start-Up Preparation

1. Add engine oil.

2. Add coolant if necessary.

3. Connect the battery terminal.

4. Remove the coil wire so that the motor will crank but will not start.

5. Hold the oil feed line for the turbocharger in an empty oil can and have an assistant crank the engine seven to ten times in spurts of ten seconds each. After 1/4 qt. of oil has filled the oil can, the oil feed line may be attached to the turbocharger. This procedure purges the oil line of any debris inside the line that may damage the turbocharger.

6. Replace the coil wire.

7. Recheck all connections and start the engine. Allow the engine to idle.

8. Check the entire system for leakage of coolant, fuel, and vacuum. Correct as necessary prior to driving car.

9. Set ignition timing to factory specs. PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS SYSTEM IS NOT COMPATABLE WITH AFTERMARKET CHIPS THAT ADVANCE IGNITION TIMING. ADVANCED IGNITION TIMING MAY RESULT IN DETONATION, WHICH MAY LEAD TO ENGINE DAMAGE.

10. Gap spark plugs to .030. NGK part # BCPR7ES-11 spark plugs are highly recommended.

11. MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE HAS AT LEAST 92 OCTANE GASOLINE.

12. The vehicle is ready for testing.

Testing / Troubleshooting

1. Vehicle must have stock ignition timing and at least 92 octane gasoline.

2. Locate suitable site for testing.

3. Drive vehicle very slowly around the block a few times. Listen carefully for any unusual sounds and note drivability. Do not go past 1/4 throttle at this stage. If any thing unusual is noted, determine cause and correct before going further.

4. If nothing unusual is noted, bring the vehicle up to 3000 rpm in second gear and shift into third gear. Slowly apply throttle until redline is reached. Listen very carefully for pinging or detonation. IF PINGING IS HEARD, LET OFF THE THROTTLE IMMEDIATELY. PINGING OR DETONATION CAN CAUSE ENGINE DAMAGE. If no pinging is heard, repeat in fourth gear.

5. If pinging is noted, carefully inspect fuel pump and turbo fuel pressure regulator systems as well as ignition timing. Fuel pump should emit buzzing sound when operating.

6. If no cause is found it may be necessary to retard ignition timing by 5 degrees and/or utilize colder heat range spark plugs. NGK part # BCPR7ES-11 are recommended.

7. If engine misfires at high rpm, verify that plugs are gapped at .030.

8. If check engine light comes on immediately during or after boost, check the Map sensor bypass system.

9. If check engine light is on upon starting car check oxygen sensor connector or consult ECU self diagnostics and service manual.

10. If no boost is present, check all intake hose connections for leaks, then check for exhaust leaks on the manifold to head, manifold to turbo manifold to wastegate, and turbo to downpipe areas.

11. If boost pressure is too high, verify that the wastegate is receiving a signal to its bottom port from either the turbocharger or the intake manifold.

12. Normal boost pressure for this system is 8.5 - 10 psi, depending on temperature and altitude. NEVER EXCEED 10 PSI.

Protection of the motor

1. Boost should not be used until the motor is up to standard operating temperature.

2. When operating under boost, the driver must at all times be concerned with detonation. This means listening carefully for a metallic pinging sound emanating from the motor. Should this sound be heard, or any functional change in the operation of the motor be noted, cease using boost immediately and correct BEFORE retesting, or motor damage will result.

3. Any attempts to achieve a maximum speed are strongly discouraged.

4. Never use less than 92 octane gasoline.

5. Do not increase the boost pressure in excess of the maximum setting suggested by DRAG.

6. Change spark plugs ( NGK BCPR 7ES -11are recommended ), air filters, and fuel filters every 10,000 miles. If your kit utilizes a K&N air filter, wash it at the above intervals.

7. Check the resistance of your spark plug wires at the time of initial installation (no more than 25,000 ohms) and every 10,000 miles thereafter.

8. Ignition timing must be stock. Never advance ignition timing or use an aftermarket chip, which may advance timing.

Protection of the turbo

1. On cold start up, the motor should be allowed to idle at the lowest possible rpm for 15 seconds to ensure lubrication of the turbo. You should then allow your engine to achieve full operational temperature BEFORE running it in a boost condition.

2. The motor must never be turned off while it is under boost.

3. Develop the habit of allowing the motor to idle for at least 15 seconds prior to turning the ignition off when you have just arrived at your destination driving in a normal manner. The recommended time of 15 seconds should be lengthened if you have just run the car in a vigorous, boosted manner. In other words, let the engine idle long enough (based on a sliding scale) to stabilize the exhaust gas temperature, and coolant and oil flow, before shut down.

4. Use high-grade oil and/or one formulated for use with turbo motors (DRAG utilizes 20-50W Mobile One).

5. Change the oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles.

6. When restarting the engine after an oil change or storage longer than a week, disconnect the coil and turn over with the starter to reestablish oil pressure.


http://www.importparts.com - Customer Service - DRAG Generation 3 installation manual

IntegD

holy ****...owned my instructions..lol

Ek00fbp

Ill use them both

flat-blk-HB

Can you use the NGK plugs BCPR7ES-11 in a D16Y8 or is there a different part # for them?

boostedsol

Just make sure that you TEST FIT EVERYTHING before tightening the **** outta all the parts. That will save you some time from having to un-bolt everything. Also, be careful when tightening/loosening the manifold from the studs extruding out of the block. Breaking those is a bitch, so take it ez and dont cut any corners.

good luck!