<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

who the hell runs ls pistons on an ls/vtec? and a b16 (aka what i have) is higher compression than a gsr on an ls/vtec setup. also, if you want to believe that an ls/vtec put out 3-5 more hp than a gsr, then more power to you- youre entitled to your opinion, skewed as it may be. but i guarantee you that an ls/vtec will pull way harder than a gsr. you also forget that an ls/vtec has a lot more torque than a gsr.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you just ask who the hell runs LS pistons on an LS/VTEC? Gee, I don't know, maybe all the people that take stock LS blocks and bolt a VTEC head onto it to make an LS/VTEC setup, gosh that's a tough one! And a B16 head has larger chambers than a GSR head, so it's actually going to give you lower compression than a GSR head If my opinion is skewed, go find somebody who thinks that an LS crank is going to be worth more than a couple lb-ft of torque in a N/A setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

an ls/vtec is higher compression than a gsr whether you use a gsr head or a b16 head. and, as we all know, higher compression = more horses. not all horsepower comes from just the crank. my point was that you can get 250hp using high comp and itb's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

do a search on tbones setup and see how much work he had to do to get 250whp

 

well i feel sorry for you and all the people that would run stock ls pistons with an ls/vtec set up because if youre building it right, you know to change the pistons, crank, oil pump and cams to make decent power. either way, thanks for crapping on my thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">either way, thanks for crapping on my thread</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha well said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha well said. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey i had a couple of questions for you, if you dont mind.
1. is there any difference between head gaskets? i was just gonna use a b20 head gasket rather than a cometic or anyone else.
2. where did you get and how much was your erl girdle? do you think 5 cap is neccessary or a 3 cap will suffice?
3. could i commission you to make me a dumptube for my wastegate? hehe
4. did you see a difference using the oil cooler? and how did you do the 2nd sandwich plate?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hey i had a couple of questions for you, if you dont mind.
1. is there any difference between head gaskets? i was just gonna use a b20 head gasket rather than a cometic or anyone else.
2. where did you get and how much was your erl girdle? do you think 5 cap is neccessary or a 3 cap will suffice?
3. could i commission you to make me a dumptube for my wastegate? hehe
4. did you see a difference using the oil cooler? and how did you do the 2nd sandwich plate?</TD></TR></TABLE>

- Most people will say they like OEM sprayed with copper. I've just used the MLS Cometic.
- The girdle came from ERL. I had them install it when they sleeved and assembled my block. It all came back as one piece ready to be dropped in the car. I think it was 500? But I can't remember. I would think the 3 main girdle would be fine for you. It's kinda like comparing stock sleeves to aftermarket...both can get the job done (in my opinion).
- Sure if you want. But the only problem I can think of is making sure it's built correctly so it fits your application the way you want it to without having the car. Unless you know of a different way.
- I'm not real sure on the before and after differences of the oil cooler. I still don't have a oil temp. gauge to base anything off of. I just thought it would be better than not to have one on a daily driver that I know will be beat on occasionally at a road course. The 2nd oil sandwich just screw onto the existing one....

It's hard to see in the photo, but you can see the Golden Eagle oil plate first. It is against the block and has the turbo oil feed coming out the right side and a -8AN line on the left going to the head. Next is the Mocal (with built in thermostat) and has the two -10AN lines going to the oil cooler. That oil plate came with a threaded bolt like thing? haha that looks like the stock one where you'd screw an oil filter on. This pretty much just allowed me to extend the threads and screw the Mocal plate on.

 

oh ok, for some reason i thought you were running the peakboost manifold so i was just gonna have you do yours the same as mine. i may just go with the peakboost dumptube then or even get the downpipe that recirculates to the dumptube.
thats crazy that you put 2 oil sandwiches on. i only have 1 oil sandwich plate so i think im just gonna do the lines to the oil catch can straight from the block where you usually put the ls/v line.
dear lord you have a lot of damn plumbing and wiring in your engine bay, how come you dont ever clean it up?

 

That makes sense now. I would run the peakboost manifold if I had one but I will have to get one custom made for the wastegate. I have a PWR custom made full sized radiator and that has priority of my manifold. It's all a personal taste but after having an open dumptube, I definitely like the recirculating setup I made. It's quieter and all you get to here is that lovely spooling sound . Yea for the catch can you'll want to run the lines to the back of the block. As for the plumbing and wiring, I just haven't taken then time to do that kind of thing. I would like to do a wire tuck or something but that's more hassle than what it worth to me. I'm going to just use this summer as a time to simplify the engine a bit and such. So far this is where it's at though: http://memimage.cardomain.net/...l.jpg I linked it instead so I don't seem like I'm whoring the pictures out. It gives people the choice to see it or not haha

 

you cant even see your radiator in the pic, whered it go? lol and how come you have 2 catch cans? oh and also, where did you get that mounting plate for the msd? and whats the little thing in middle of your rad hose?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant even see your radiator in the pic, whered it go? lol and how come you have 2 catch cans? oh and also, where did you get that mounting plate for the msd? and whats the little thing in middle of your rad hose? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's where the radiator is: http://memimage.cardomain.net/...l.jpg
haha, you're actually the first person to pick up on that and ask where it went. The radiator is basically where the A/C condenser and hood latch were. Because of how the turbo sits, I physically can't mount a full size in the normal position so I had to get somewhat creative. That's why I had PWR custom make me one to the size and specs that I asked for. Side note: PWR gets a HUGE thumbs up from me for great customer service and a wonderful product. So I took out the hood latch and installed hood pins so I could use the radiator. I was fighting overheating problems and eventually found out that air was getting into the system. To this day I still have no idea how or why it did but it's stopped.

The thing in the radiator hose is the temp. sensor for the mechanical water temp. gauge. I like it there because I get to keep the stock one, it's easy to do, and gives you the hottest reading (supposedly) since it's water just coming out of the engine. Other than that, the first curve on the hose by the head is now copper (going to change it something else) with a T fitting on it. This allows me to fill and bleed the system from there because the radiator is lower than the head in it's current configuration....and water has a tough time flowing uphill

I have two catch cans just for extra breathing. The one on the block is arguably more important. After reading about the second can through searches on H-T.com I came to the conclusion that the second one was for me too.

As for the MSD plate, I made that myself out of some aluminum plating. The mounting plate for the ignition box and the blaster coil are all one piece that I bent is different directions. It was the only logical place I had to work with because I wasn't going to get rid of ABS just for that. ABS is way too good to have in the winter time to justify removing it.

 

Swap out the turbine housing for a .63ar T3.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LeGeND4LiFe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Swap out the turbine housing for a .63ar T3. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Me?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Me?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The OP.