zexxbo

ok heres my setup:
b18b block
aebs sleeves
pauter rods
84mm cp pistons 8.9:1 cr
knife edged crank
b16a head
stage 3 port & polish
gsr cams
skunk2 cam gears
edlebrock victor x intake manifold
power 68mm tb
60-1 t3 .70ar/.82 exhaust
peakboost el ramhorn
spearco (33x10.5x3.5" with endtanks)
2.5" tb to ic
2.25 ic to turbo
hks ssq
tial 44mm

i havent put together my ems really cuz im waiting on a few more things. i have 1000cc injectors and hondata s200 but im thinking of going with smaller injectors and a better ems like aem.

im worried that im going to have problems getting this thing to spool up because its so massive. i got it cheap cuz it was overstock at my friends but its huge, i mean its like for a rx7 or supra. after my friend looked at it, he told me that it might spool up around 5k rpms so im kinda worried. i mean i know that boring it to 2.0 helps with low end but im worried that it will boost lag until it hits 5k and then just spin tires. any ideas?

things to keep in mind:
*this is daily driven in a dc2 chassis
*planning on boosting 8-10lbs daily

thanks for your help

Dunc

it's not bad for the street. I have the same one and pretty close to the exact same setup. I see around 7psi around 4000-4200ish and 16 by 4800-5000rpm

It did feel different after switching from the T3/T4 .57 trim, but it's nice in a way because it helps with gas mileage since you don't necessarily hit boost all the time when acclerating.

Speed Infliction

one thing I noticed is your ic to turbo piping is too small. the turbo is 2.5 inches and you have 2.25? you need to fix that part. everything else looks good. do you have headstuds? by the way you should have full boost by 5000-5500 rpms not just starting to boost by then.

zexxbo

yea ive got aebs headstubs. i was thinking about getting skunk2 mainstuds but i was told that i would have to get the block re-drilled so they line properly.

AF- do you daily drive your car? what kind of gas mileage are you seeing? and did you have any problems tuning the 1000cc injectors with your hondata? also, is your turbo ball-bearing? mines non-ball bearing but i only paid $500/shipped for it so i figure i could get my money back most likely and maybe spend another $xxx to get a gt35r or maybe a gt30.

ive got skunk2 0.5mm oversized valves, skunk2 valve springs, skunk2 retainers and skunk2 camgears. i was thinking about changing out the valve seals, valve locks and valve seats to ferrea but im just debating whether or not its neccessary.. any input?

Dunc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AF- do you daily drive your car? what kind of gas mileage are you seeing? and did you have any problems tuning the 1000cc injectors with your hondata? also, is your turbo ball-bearing? mines non-ball bearing but i only paid $500/shipped for it so i figure i could get my money back most likely and maybe spend another $xxx to get a gt35r or maybe a gt30.

ive got skunk2 0.5mm oversized valves, skunk2 valve springs, skunk2 retainers and skunk2 camgears. i was thinking about changing out the valve seals, valve locks and valve seats to ferrea but im just debating whether or not its neccessary.. any input?</TD></TR></TABLE>

- 100% Daily drive with roughly 25,000 miles on the new motor, less than 10k on this new turbo
- I can see around 29mpg @ 90mph &lt;--gas mileage is all in how well part throttle is tuned
- There were no problems at all tuning the 1000's with Hondata. The idle like a dream.
- The turbo is the T3 60-1, .82A/R, stage 5 wheel...non BB
- Sure you can change out the valve sysem to whatever floats your boat. If it's any help, I've been using the skunk2 valves, retainers, and springs...and so far so good. They've been in there since day one of boost. I'll probably keep a close eye on them from now on because they have roughly 40,000miles on them and I haven't seen any write ups on how long they last.

zexxbo

have you had any problems with the motor? and is there anything i can do to make the turbo spool faster like around 3500-3800 or so? like maybe switching out to a shorty style manifold.. or maybe crower/skunk turbo cams rather than my gsr's?

sorry, i didnt mean change out the valve train. i like skunk2 a lot, i just meant change out the oem honda valve seats, valve locks and valve guides to ferrea instead. but im wondering if ill run into issues doing that since those are probably intended specifically for ferreas valvetrain ya know?
what do you shift at as well?

anything else i could maybe do to make it spool quicker?

b20em1

I am pretty sure that your ramhorn spools faster than a log. If spool is really important to you, I would go with a GT series Turbo. I think that would be a better option for what you want.

zexxbo

sorry, i didnt mean a log style manifold but rather the quickie/mini-me i guess its called. this:


what rpm range would i see a gt spool at and would you reccommend the 30 or the 35 for daily driving?
im almost just considering going all motor cuz im worried about all the problems that supposedly come with a daily driven turbo set up. i mean i currently have the greddy kit on my gsr making about 210whp on 6lbs with the hondata s200 and 440cc injectors and have no problems at all.
im tempted to trade out my pistons for 11.5:1 and my friend is selling a set of twm itb's pretty cheap so im figuring that would yield around 250whp tuned right with my setup and it would be more constant power than my turbo, despite the power difference.

b16sedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rpm range would i see a gt spool at and would you reccommend the 30 or the 35 for daily driving?
im almost just considering going all motor cuz im worried about all the problems that supposedly come with a daily driven turbo set up. i mean i currently have the greddy kit on my gsr making about 210whp on 6lbs with the hondata s200 and 440cc injectors and have no problems at all.
im tempted to trade out my pistons for 11.5:1 and my friend is selling a set of twm itb's pretty cheap so im figuring that would yield around 250whp tuned right with my setup and it would be more constant power than my turbo, despite the power difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I hate to break it to you, but ITB's on an 11.5:1 84.5mm GSR motor defintiely won't make 250 WHP. Maybe 200-210 on a good day.

Go with the GT30R if you want to DD it, and grow some ******* ***** and run more than 10 psi! I run 18 daily on my stock sleeved B16 and make 440 WHP with an SC61 and I beat the **** out of my car, don't be a pansy. If it's tuned well and you use the right parts it's not going to break.

b20em1

I have a gt35r on my car that spools 13psi at about 4100rpm. GT30 will spool faster tho, but it will run out of steam up top in high boost. I think the 35r is the best turbo to DD. But, thats just my opinion. I think it has the best mix of power for the lowest spool time.

zexxbo

its not a gsr, its an ls/vtec and its bored to 2.0 liters as well. its also using a b16 head so it would be like 11.8:1 they arent garage made itbs. they are the twm's with the extra large, polished horns. ive also got some 370cc injectors, skunk2 fuel rail, smsp headers, 2.5" hollow cat and catback, and some other little minor bolt-ons. you dont think it would be anywhere near 250?

the reason that the gt series spools a lot faster is because its ball bearing right? will my currently turbo run out of steam up top or thats mainly what its designed for?

b16sedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not a gsr, its an ls/vtec and its bored to 2.0 liters as well. its also using a b16 head so it would be like 11.8:1 they arent garage made itbs. they are the twm's with the extra large, polished horns. ive also got some 370cc injectors, skunk2 fuel rail, smsp headers, 2.5" hollow cat and catback, and some other little minor bolt-ons. you dont think it would be anywhere near 250?

the reason that the gt series spools a lot faster is because its ball bearing right? will my currently turbo run out of steam up top or thats mainly what its designed for? </TD></TR></TABLE>

GSR or LS/VTEC is no matter, you're looking at a realistic difference of 2 or 3 horsepower. Extra large polished horns or not, you arn't coming anywhere close to 250 WHP with GSR cams. Go look up some 250 WHP street car recipies on here. Tbone is a great example, he's running 12.5:1 compression on an 85mm bore motor with a fully ported head and Skunk2 Pro2+ cams, you don't just touch 250 WHP with a mild N/A build.

Tchleung

My friend has a CRVTC with ITB's and 11.XX CR running 246 WHP. It can be done.. Hell my friends 2.1L LSTVTEC with Endyn modifed ITR intake manifold hit 267whp/174wtq. It can be done. Just have to have the right peices and know what you are doing. Me, I like big turbos. lol

But he's riight, both of these motors are no where near a mild NA Build. Engine is redone top to bottom with some wild cams. The LSVTEC has 12.X CR

zexxbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GSR or LS/VTEC is no matter, you're looking at a realistic difference of 2 or 3 horsepower. Extra large polished horns or not, you arn't coming anywhere close to 250 WHP with GSR cams. Go look up some 250 WHP street car recipies on here. Tbone is a great example, he's running 12.5:1 compression on an 85mm bore motor with a fully ported head and Skunk2 Pro2+ cams, you don't just touch 250 WHP with a mild N/A build.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ls/vtec has roughly 10-20 more hp (flywheel) than a gsr, depending on how its built. i did say that my head has a stage 3 port and polish and the itb's along with the smsp headers would flow awesome. yea i know id have to change out the cams, skunk2 advertises something like a 25hp gain with their cams i believe. but i wouldnt call whats done to my motor or what i talked about, a mild build. and anything over 11.5:1 you pretty much have to run race gas with yea? im talking about mine being daily driven.

how does endyn modify the manifold? and couldnt i also throw on an unorthodox pulley and a remove the a/c and p/s ?

Tchleung

Stay away from unorthodox pulleys. They are junk and will shatter your oil pump. I woud just get the ATI race damper. Depends what octane of gas you have where you live. My buddies LSVTEC that puts out 267whp was on 94 octane

Dunc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you had any problems with the motor? and is there anything i can do to make the turbo spool faster like around 3500-3800 or so? like maybe switching out to a shorty style manifold.. or maybe crower/skunk turbo cams rather than my gsr's?

sorry, i didnt mean change out the valve train. i like skunk2 a lot, i just meant change out the oem honda valve seats, valve locks and valve guides to ferrea instead. but im wondering if ill run into issues doing that since those are probably intended specifically for ferreas valvetrain ya know?
what do you shift at as well?

anything else i could maybe do to make it spool quicker?</TD></TR></TABLE>

-Nope, never had any real major problems with the motor (knock on wood). I rebuilt it because I wanted to not because I was forced to.
- I highly doubt that you'll be getting that size of a turbo to spool around 3500-3800. You'd need a much smaller turbo that wouldn't support nearly the amount of power as the 60-1. It will start boosting way before 5000, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. It's really not bad.
- It's been tuned to 9200 before, but I typically shift around 8500.
- On 8psi the turbo made 303whp on my setup...it wasn't the final tune but that'll give you an idea of what you're in store for. 300whp+ on the street is funnnnn as hell and I would never even think of going back to a small turbo now.

zexxbo

what kind of minor problems have you had? i mean i definitely went with overbuild in mind (ie: pauter rods, aebs sleeves) even tho i was only shooting for around 350ish daily driven.
at what rpms do you think ill start seeing boost at all? do you spin tires when you downshift at 70? also, what kind of cams are you running?
how come you only shift at 8500? i was thinking about shifting around 9500. my friend has a gt40 boosting 35lbs (2.4 bar) and he shifts at 10,500 rpms, hes running the indy springs tho.
im hoping to do 10psi daily driven. i think the spring thats in the wastegate now is a 1 bar but i dont wanna boost that much daily.
is the fluidampr pretty much the same thing? where is the ati damper available?
its going to be downtuned for the street on 91 octane most likely

Dunc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of minor problems have you had? i mean i definitely went with overbuild in mind (ie: pauter rods, aebs sleeves) even tho i was only shooting for around 350ish daily driven.
at what rpms do you think ill start seeing boost at all? do you spin tires when you downshift at 70? also, what kind of cams are you running?
how come you only shift at 8500? i was thinking about shifting around 9500. my friend has a gt40 boosting 35lbs (2.4 bar) and he shifts at 10,500 rpms, hes running the indy springs tho.
im hoping to do 10psi daily driven. i think the spring thats in the wastegate now is a 1 bar but i dont wanna boost that much daily.
is the fluidampr pretty much the same thing? where is the ati damper available?
its going to be downtuned for the street on 91 octane most likely</TD></TR></TABLE>

- There will always be some sort of minor problem, that's just a given. For example: I went through two wiring harnesses for Hondata before I got fed up and just wired things myself to the harness. The fuel pump wouldn't start on one harness and the other would turn vtec on. A charge pipe has blown off before. The rotor in the distributor has needed to be replaced, the distributor cap has also needed to be replaced because they were causing breaking up issues that I didn't know at first. Bolts backing out of the manifold and turbo. Maxing out my injectors (1000's) and not knowing why. Had a FPR to crap out but I didn't know at first. Blah blah blah.....eventually I figured these things out and corrected the problems one by one.

- I think I start seeing boost around 3500-3800 but I would need to double check sometime.
- Spinning the tires will be directly related to the gears you have and the tires. I have the LS gears and BFG KDW tires. If it's above 70-75* outside, I'll spin in first starting at like 6000-6500 and then I'll barely spin if at all in 2nd gear. I definitely do not spin at all in 3rd no matter the circumstances or speed (unless it's wet obviously).
- I am running the skunk2 turbo cams. I'd like to try out the TypeR's sometime, but don't really care enough to go through the hassle.
- I shift at 8500 because after that my power will start to drop off. Then it's just pointless to rev any higher.
- Sure you can shift at 9500, but if you're not making power there then it would be pointless to stress your engine more than need be. So if your friends setup is making power at 10.5k then cool beans but if his power drops at say 9k, then it's pretty pointless to rev that high.....especially on a street car.
- I've never heard good things about the fluidampr and have always heard people staying away from it. I'd do a search on here or something to get more info. about it, but I would def. search alot before buying that particular part.

b16sedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ls/vtec has roughly 10-20 more hp (flywheel) than a gsr, depending on how its built. i did say that my head has a stage 3 port and polish and the itb's along with the smsp headers would flow awesome. yea i know id have to change out the cams, skunk2 advertises something like a 25hp gain with their cams i believe. but i wouldnt call whats done to my motor or what i talked about, a mild build. and anything over 11.5:1 you pretty much have to run race gas with yea? im talking about mine being daily driven.

how does endyn modify the manifold? and couldnt i also throw on an unorthodox pulley and a remove the a/c and p/s ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Show me some LS/VTEC's making 20 horsepower more than GSR motors, I would absolutely love to see them. The difference between a GSR stroke and an LS stroke is 1.8mm, which works out to be 39.9CC's of displacement on an 84mm motor, or about a 2% difference in size. Assuming efficiency stays exactly the same when you increase displacement (which it doesn't), a 200 horsepower motor would make a whopping 204 horsepower from slapping an LS crank inside of it. Get a clue, people see 20 horsepower gains going up ~11mm in stroke from B16 to GSR/LS motors, you arn't going to see peanuts moving from a GSR to an LS.

Tchelung, I would absolutely love to see 267 WHP from a B-series on 94 octane that was dynoed on a Dynojet or a Mustang dyno. That's higher than any pump gas numbers I've ever seen, and makes me wonder why people would even bother with the K-series if you can pull that much HP out of a pump gas B-series.

kuja

are u saying the car in ur sig don't spin 2nd?

i make 384/252 and i light up 3rd like its my job, gsr tranny.

Dunc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kuja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are u saying the car in ur sig don't spin 2nd?

i make 384/252 and i light up 3rd like its my job, gsr tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, the car in my signature is my 100% daily driver. 424whp and 281wtq that's where we had to stop because the FPR crapped out on me... early this January we'll finish up and I should be in the 430's on pump and 510? on C16. I'll have to report back and see if my 3rd spins with 500 haha. I'd highly doubt that I'll be able to break loose in 4th even with 500, but time will tell I guess. I do spin 2nd if the temperature outside drops below 70ish. On a warm summer day I'll still spin 2nd but it's really late in the rpms (like 7000). I have never been able to spin 3rd yet unless the road is wet. That's the one nice thing the LS gears offer. The exact tires I use are the BFG KDW2's 205/45/16.

zexxbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Show me some LS/VTEC's making 20 horsepower more than GSR motors, I would absolutely love to see them. The difference between a GSR stroke and an LS stroke is 1.8mm, which works out to be 39.9CC's of displacement on an 84mm motor, or about a 2% difference in size. Assuming efficiency stays exactly the same when you increase displacement (which it doesn't), a 200 horsepower motor would make a whopping 204 horsepower from slapping an LS crank inside of it. Get a clue, people see 20 horsepower gains going up ~11mm in stroke from B16 to GSR/LS motors, you arn't going to see peanuts moving from a GSR to an LS.

Tchelung, I would absolutely love to see 267 WHP from a B-series on 94 octane that was dynoed on a Dynojet or a Mustang dyno. That's higher than any pump gas numbers I've ever seen, and makes me wonder why people would even bother with the K-series if you can pull that much HP out of a pump gas B-series.</TD></TR></TABLE>

an ls/vtec is higher compression than a gsr whether you use a gsr head or a b16 head. and, as we all know, higher compression = more horses. not all horsepower comes from just the crank. my point was that you can get 250hp using high comp and itb's.

b16sedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

an ls/vtec is higher compression than a gsr whether you use a gsr head or a b16 head. and, as we all know, higher compression = more horses. not all horsepower comes from just the crank. my point was that you can get 250hp using high comp and itb's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

A stock piston LS/VTEC has 2 tenths of a point less compression than a GSR. For any given piston dish or dome volume the change from an LS to a GSR crank will change the compression about 3 tenths of a point, so from 12:1 to 12.3:1. That's not going to add up to 20 horsepower, nice try though. Is the next post going to be talking about how the LS/VTEC head dowels effectively add power?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

that turbo is too small for supra's and rx-7's

its a fine turbo for the street

zexxbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A stock piston LS/VTEC has 2 tenths of a point less compression than a GSR. For any given piston dish or dome volume the change from an LS to a GSR crank will change the compression about 3 tenths of a point, so from 12:1 to 12.3:1. That's not going to add up to 20 horsepower, nice try though. Is the next post going to be talking about how the LS/VTEC head dowels effectively add power?</TD></TR></TABLE>

who the hell runs ls pistons on an ls/vtec? and a b16 (aka what i have) is higher compression than a gsr on an ls/vtec setup. also, if you want to believe that an ls/vtec put out 3-5 more hp than a gsr, then more power to you- youre entitled to your opinion, skewed as it may be. but i guarantee you that an ls/vtec will pull way harder than a gsr. you also forget that an ls/vtec has a lot more torque than a gsr.