solving the overheating problems
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From: official euro R hospital, AUSTRIA
hi!
As some of you know, I had some heat troubles on the track:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2079927
Now 3 weeks are gone and I am in the process of modifieing the front bumper and relocate the oil- and intercooler.
The oil cooler get in place under the driver side headlight, behind the 2 vents you see already, a 3rd vent will be cut out today. On the passenger side an tranny-oil-cooler will be installed.
The wings west lip is getting 6cm lower (2,35inch), so the front mount IC and the radiator get more fresh air + the radiator is not blocked so much from the IC anymore.
2 round holes on each side are coming under the 3rd vent for brake duct and fresh air for the K&N cone-airfilter.
The old oil cooler has 100x330mm, the new one has 260x210mm, near the double size. I will use the current oil cooler for the tranny oil with a 12V pump.
I rerouted the water and oil lines for the turbo to the timing belt side.
Hope that helps to bring down the coolant and the oil temp.
old location of the oil cooler:

new location:






As some of you know, I had some heat troubles on the track:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2079927
Now 3 weeks are gone and I am in the process of modifieing the front bumper and relocate the oil- and intercooler.
The oil cooler get in place under the driver side headlight, behind the 2 vents you see already, a 3rd vent will be cut out today. On the passenger side an tranny-oil-cooler will be installed.
The wings west lip is getting 6cm lower (2,35inch), so the front mount IC and the radiator get more fresh air + the radiator is not blocked so much from the IC anymore.
2 round holes on each side are coming under the 3rd vent for brake duct and fresh air for the K&N cone-airfilter.
The old oil cooler has 100x330mm, the new one has 260x210mm, near the double size. I will use the current oil cooler for the tranny oil with a 12V pump.
I rerouted the water and oil lines for the turbo to the timing belt side.
Hope that helps to bring down the coolant and the oil temp.
old location of the oil cooler:

new location:






the new location of the oil cooler is worse than the old one, as you can clearly see, there is no flow thro the oil cooler in the new location, right behind the oil cooler is the chassis, thats not good! second, you need to move your rad and intercooler coloser together, either move the rad forward or the intercooler backwards. i had similar over heating problems, its all got to do with flow and where the used air goes to after its been thro bits and peices (cooling components) here is a picture of my setup, its in a prelude 4th.
as you can see i have moved my rad way forward, 10mm from the intercooler.
as you can see i have moved my rad way forward, 10mm from the intercooler.
what is the distance between your intercooler and your rad? i run a civic half rad in my prelude with a fullrace turbo kit, 419whp on 1 bar with SC61 turbo. i used to have major heating problems, air temps were really high, water temps high, oil temps high. i bought a a new front bumper with way larger front mouth. that never helped, i raised the rear ot my bonnet to see if i cud vent air out, didnt help much.
i spoke to a british GT car aerodynamics designer about this problem, he said he would take a look at the car for me. he said the intercooler was way to far away from my rad. think about it, how hard does the air hit your hand wen your doing 60mph if you stick it out the window? damn hard, think of the intercooler as your hand, the air almost come to a stop right......... so in effect it does not have enough force to push tho the rad to. so it cause a vortex inbetween the rad and intercooler, causing my watertemps to rise and the other temps to rise. he said put the rad right behind the intercooler, like within 10mm. so i did, HOLY COW!!!! what a difference....... have you ever heard of a car running cold........ well it does, in boost, constent high reving, water temps dont go above 81'C, oil temps. here is a picture of what i did!
i spoke to a british GT car aerodynamics designer about this problem, he said he would take a look at the car for me. he said the intercooler was way to far away from my rad. think about it, how hard does the air hit your hand wen your doing 60mph if you stick it out the window? damn hard, think of the intercooler as your hand, the air almost come to a stop right......... so in effect it does not have enough force to push tho the rad to. so it cause a vortex inbetween the rad and intercooler, causing my watertemps to rise and the other temps to rise. he said put the rad right behind the intercooler, like within 10mm. so i did, HOLY COW!!!! what a difference....... have you ever heard of a car running cold........ well it does, in boost, constent high reving, water temps dont go above 81'C, oil temps. here is a picture of what i did!
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
hyabusa....I read your thread and was going to suggest that to Austrian type-r but how do most of use move the intercooler and radiator closer?
Most of us cannot lose our hood latch so moving the radiator forward by chopping up the rad support isn't possible. And chopping up the rad support in our cars is not the best thing to do also.....
I have been contemplating how to make these two closer together ever since I read your post but cannot figure something out.
Most of us cannot lose our hood latch so moving the radiator forward by chopping up the rad support isn't possible. And chopping up the rad support in our cars is not the best thing to do also.....
I have been contemplating how to make these two closer together ever since I read your post but cannot figure something out.
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From: official euro R hospital, AUSTRIA
Thanks for the infos. There will be enough gap between the oil cooler and the chassi, I will have about 10cm between. When I lower the IC for 6cm and the oil cooler is out of the way + I have more vents in the center of the front bumper...that is so much more area fresh air can cool down the radiator, it should work......if not, I will try your idea
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hyabusa....I read your thread and was going to suggest that to Austrian type-r but how do most of use move the intercooler and radiator closer?
Most of us cannot lose our hood latch so moving the radiator forward by chopping up the rad support isn't possible. And chopping up the rad support in our cars is not the best thing to do also.....
I have been contemplating how to make these two closer together ever since I read your post but cannot figure something out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How about just fabbing up some ductwork between the rad and ic? Like with galvanized sheetmetal for house ac ducting bent into the same rectangular shape as the rad. That way the airflow that slows after passing through the intercoler will get pushed through by incoming air since it will only have one way to go and that is pushed through the rad????
Most of us cannot lose our hood latch so moving the radiator forward by chopping up the rad support isn't possible. And chopping up the rad support in our cars is not the best thing to do also.....
I have been contemplating how to make these two closer together ever since I read your post but cannot figure something out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How about just fabbing up some ductwork between the rad and ic? Like with galvanized sheetmetal for house ac ducting bent into the same rectangular shape as the rad. That way the airflow that slows after passing through the intercoler will get pushed through by incoming air since it will only have one way to go and that is pushed through the rad????
What really needs to be done is the space or "void" between the radiator and FMIC or anything before or after it... the spaces in-between need to be closed off... boxed in so that the air coming through the IC gets forced through the radiator... not dispersing through the easier route which would be the airspace between them. If you attach some sort of extensions off the FMIC, straight and stopping at the radiator; top bottom left and right; then you will be doing just that.
Basically what will happen instead of the sir going through both, it chooses the path of least resistance (being not through the fins of the radiator) and your cooling problem begins.... I have noticed a similar issue with my ricer project; I am in the works to fab up something once I make the mounts to actually "strap or bolt down" my FMIC.
Basically what will happen instead of the sir going through both, it chooses the path of least resistance (being not through the fins of the radiator) and your cooling problem begins.... I have noticed a similar issue with my ricer project; I am in the works to fab up something once I make the mounts to actually "strap or bolt down" my FMIC.
this is why fan shrouds are so important. it keeps the air going THROUGH the radiator instead of around it. you could make a long shroud from the IC to the Radiator.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What really needs to be done is the space or "void" between the radiator and FMIC or anything before or after it... the spaces in-between need to be closed off... boxed in so that the air coming through the IC gets forced through the radiator... not dispersing through the easier route which would be the airspace between them. If you attach some sort of extensions off the FMIC, straight and stopping at the radiator; top bottom left and right; then you will be doing just that.
Basically what will happen instead of the sir going through both, it chooses the path of least resistance (being not through the fins of the radiator) and your cooling problem begins.... I have noticed a similar issue with my ricer project; I am in the works to fab up something once I make the mounts to actually "strap or bolt down" my FMIC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats exactly what I said. Of course you explained it a little better though.
So there you go make sure your cooling fan has a shroud and make some ducting bettwen the intercooler and rad to keep the moving air from escaping and forced to go where you want it to. (the rad)
Basically what will happen instead of the sir going through both, it chooses the path of least resistance (being not through the fins of the radiator) and your cooling problem begins.... I have noticed a similar issue with my ricer project; I am in the works to fab up something once I make the mounts to actually "strap or bolt down" my FMIC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats exactly what I said. Of course you explained it a little better though.
So there you go make sure your cooling fan has a shroud and make some ducting bettwen the intercooler and rad to keep the moving air from escaping and forced to go where you want it to. (the rad)
If you try out your new setup only to find that you still need more cooling power, i sugest looking into making some ducting from cheap sheet aluminium.
Basically as of now theres tons of air pooring in through the bumper, but once in the bumper, it can go out a ton of places instead of through the radiator.
Air will take the path of least resistance which often means around the radiator.
You want to seal the bumper area, make it so at speed, there is a ton of air being forced into the bumper through all your openings, and the only way out for the air is through the radiator.
Its not enough just to have a huge volume of air being blown at the core, you want that air to be forced through the radiator by making the air pressure infront of the core as high as possible. Allowing the air entering the bumper to escape going through other areas will greatly reduce the air pressure infront of the radiator.
More flow = more cooling power.
Good luck!
Basically as of now theres tons of air pooring in through the bumper, but once in the bumper, it can go out a ton of places instead of through the radiator.
Air will take the path of least resistance which often means around the radiator.
You want to seal the bumper area, make it so at speed, there is a ton of air being forced into the bumper through all your openings, and the only way out for the air is through the radiator.
Its not enough just to have a huge volume of air being blown at the core, you want that air to be forced through the radiator by making the air pressure infront of the core as high as possible. Allowing the air entering the bumper to escape going through other areas will greatly reduce the air pressure infront of the radiator.
More flow = more cooling power.
Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flashmn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like an SRT-4
</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly what i thought once i saw the pics..
i think it looks pretty good. and especially if it cures your overheating problem!
</TD></TR></TABLE>exactly what i thought once i saw the pics..
i think it looks pretty good. and especially if it cures your overheating problem!



