Here is the problem:

1) installed turbo kit on my d16z6 (T3 .42/.48 at 9 psi), was running for 3-4 days on a basemap trying to fix oil and boost leaks before the tune, car started overheating when in boost (AFR bit on a rich side),

2) changed the headgasket which fixed the overheating but car started smoking bad when in boost (99% sure it is oil),

3) went back to NA, car still smokes, only when revved to 5 - 6000 RPM

4) Turbo (I bought it used) apparently has a bigger shaft play than before and I can tell that the blades scratch the housing a little from the look of it - spins freely.

What went wrong ?? I am now ordering rings, valve stem seals, new HG, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, hope it will help. Support greatly appreciated !!

Help fellow European HMTer

Adam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adamez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the problem: was running for 3-4 days on a basemap </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are probably running rich........ Has the car been tuned??

 

No, not yet, running rich would give me black smoke when I have a white/gray one (coolant level OK)

 

have you done a compression check?

 

Yep, even across the board.

 

what make turbo is it???

 

Garrett Airresearch off saab

 

just re read your post again,you say your car is back to N/A now? If you are getting smoking at high rpm's it could be a cracked ringland caused by a poor tune.Have you done a compression check?

 

The compression was OK, I did just a couple of WOT pulls, found out the car was overheating so I changed the HG and now I need to address the smoking problem right after the change.

Is it just a coincidence that the car started smoking RIGHT after the HG change, it was perfect before the HG change (except for overheating).

 

what were your air fuel ratios? Also, what is your pcv setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has the car been tuned??</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adamez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, not yet</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adamez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did just a couple of WOT pulls</TD></TR></TABLE>



When will people learn not to expletive around with their car on a basemap?

 

I did adjust the AFRs roughly to 11 - 11.5, but was nbot able to complete the tuning due to overheating. As for PCV - I unplugged the breather on the valve cover and left everything else behind the block stock.

 

Are you sure you got the correct HG from the store?

 

why are you ordering all that crap? do a friggin leakdown and you'll find the problem. and just to let you know, if you broke something in the bottom end, it WILL NOT be a ring, it will be a ring land. also, while the motor is apart, why not toss in some vitara pistons and upgraded rods?

btw, my motor with 3 broken pistons (ring lands) compression tested 181-176-180-179

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcturbols &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



When will people learn not to expletive around with their car on a basemap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

When will people learn theres more then one way to do things. I have never dyno tuned my car, went through four track days, two drag strip nights, and plenty of abuse around town this summer. 15 psi on a bone stock d-series. Base maps are fine, if you correct the fuel and timing, and other necesary adjustments. If you plugged in someone elses map, then you need to learn, but the guy said he adjusted the fuel down to a safe level. Now, how about the timing?

You've got the basics handled with what your ordering up, so i would think you'll fix it, make sure to check all your tolerances when you rebuild it. And clean out the pvc system in the back really good, new pvc woouldn't hurt either. You could try and pull apart the pvc system now, before you gut it, clean it and put a new valve in jsut for fun as it is very cheap. I have had that be an issue before. Was blowing smoke, and burning a quart every 500 miles.

 

The gasket was selected in the local Honda dealer by my VIN so it shoud be OK, besides, nobody indicated any problems durign the install

My ignition is retarder 1degree/1psi.

I don`t think it is a bad idea to replace all gaskets in the head after 120 000 miles. When I open the motor and find broken ring lands then I will go for the vitaras and rods for sure, but for now I am on a budget and since I don`t require them I will leave stock ones and boost max 7-8psi.

Leakdown test would be a good idea but I live in Poland (Europe) and nobody heard about it here and I do not have the skills/time to construct the tester myself.




Modified by adamez at 12:52 PM 11/2/2006

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">f uck you post *****, contribute or get out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that was real mature :roll:

 

Thank you Captain Obvious....
Running off a basemap is just that...
If he had already begun to adjust fuel and timing then that would be considered tuned or at least in the tuning process...

Once you adjust anything off the basemap it is no longer a basemap..
And despite your good fortune on running a basemap most people don't and blow their motors so don't go around n00b-tech telling people it is okay to do...

I would agree it is the ring lands... like said above to a leakdown test to be sure but now you get to build your bottom end... yay for you