Flame if you must. i'm new to this.

I am rebuilding my B16 and will be getting it sleeved. Is it possible to go 1.8? Since I will have the whole engine out of car??

 

Yes it is I am running a b16 thats at 1.9 right now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblues &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes it is I am running a b16 thats at 1.9 right now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

can u explain what I need to do?? what parts will be different from the b16. i'm guessing the sleeves and pistons for 1.8. how about the crank rods etc.???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Flame if you must. i'm new to this.

I am rebuilding my B16 and will be getting it sleeved. Is it possible to go 1.8? Since I will have the whole engine out of car??

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can increase the bore some, but the B16 has a shorter deck and stroke than the B18, which limits how big you can go. You can do all kinds of funky stuff with bigger cranks, shorter rods, and custom pistons with the wrist pins moved up, but it's not worth it IMO if you are turbo'ing it. I made over 400 WHP on a daily driven sleeved B16 and that was plenty for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can increase the bore some, but the B16 has a shorter deck and stroke than the B18, which limits how big you can go. You can do all kinds of funky stuff with bigger cranks, shorter rods, and custom pistons with the wrist pins moved up, but it's not worth it IMO if you are turbo'ing it. I made over 400 WHP on a daily driven sleeved B16 and that was plenty for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, I dont want to mess with the stroke. I am just gonna leave it 1.6 I guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks, I dont want to mess with the stroke. I am just gonna leave it 1.6 I guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>

or u can get a gsr block and get it 84 mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks, I dont want to mess with the stroke. I am just gonna leave it 1.6 I guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You do not have to mess with the stroke. You can sleeve it to 84mm which would put bump your displacement up to about 1.8L

 

84mm bore on a B16 will get you to 1.7.


http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php

 

erl superdeck II


thats what i got
just shy of 2.0

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbofunvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">erl superdeck II


thats what i got
just shy of 2.0</TD></TR></TABLE>

A Dart tall-deck block got me to 2.156, but how much does he want to spend?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A Dart tall-deck block got me to 2.156, but how much does he want to spend?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not sure but this **** aint cheap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TURBO-WAWA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

or u can get a gsr block and get it 84 mm </TD></TR></TABLE>

im not getting a Dart block or a gsr block. im using the block i have. Its gonna cost enough as it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im not getting a Dart block or a gsr block. im using the block i have. Its gonna cost enough as it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I did for my first built motor, my 84mm sleeved B16 was awesome. 23 PSI of boost on 8.4:1 pistons and it was a lot of fun.

 

That LS block brought me to 1.8L and got it completly assembled with alternator for 100 bucks , Puttin forged parts in it now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's what I did for my first built motor, my 84mm sleeved B16 was awesome. 23 PSI of boost on 8.4:1 pistons and it was a lot of fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can u help me out and give me a parts list? I want to build this one with the same parts U used on yours. Also what engine management did u use??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can u help me out and give me a parts list? I want to build this one with the same parts U used on yours. Also what engine management did u use??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've had a bunch of different setups, but here's the most mainstream:

My blown up B16A2, sleeved and head ported by RLZ.

Shelf stock 8.5:1 Wiseco Pistons on Eagle rods (I had custom 8.4:1 pistons in my first motor, but shelf stock coated 8.5:1 Wisecos are fine)

Motor assembled by RLZ, new Honda bearings and oil/water pumps

Stock B16A2 cams (they aren't that great, but they were free, you can pick up a set of GSR cams for &lt;$100 that would be better)

Lovefab SST manifold and 3" downpipe into a 3" TR turbo exhaust (pretty much any good tubular manifold with a clean full-merge collector, but the Lovefab units are the best built units that I have seen by far)

Ebay cheapie FMIC -w- homemade charge piping (Jegs 2.25" mandrel exhausts and ebay silicone hose couplers)

ATP Turbo GT3071R turbo with the big turbine housing.

TIAL 38mm WG, HKS SSQV BOV

AEM EMS, tuned by JDogg


Daily driven, weekend drag raced (usualy ran 12.0's at around 125 in a 2750 pound coupe)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Daily driven, weekend drag raced (usualy ran 12.0's at around 125 in a 2750 pound coupe)


</TD></TR></TABLE> nice numbers. what about valvetrain?? no way it was stock.

thanks for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> nice numbers. what about valvetrain?? no way it was stock.

thanks for the help </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ferrea valves and springs. The valves were fine, but the springs were way too stiff, they tended to make my cams and rockers eat each other. I use some RLZ springs now, no more cams eating rockers.

 

Also ARP head and main studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also ARP head and main studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, yep ARP is pretty much a given. I'v heard the b16 head has great flow already, do u see any need for a port and polish???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88crxhfb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'v heard the b16 head has great flow already, do u see any need for a port and polish???</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not qualified to make a call on that, I rely on RLZ to make the head right for my application. I've heard from Brad at RLZ that a lot of flow improvement comes from just the valve job, so I'd at least get a good valve job done on it. It's pretty easy to pull the head off of it later if you want to get some porting done, so as long as the bottom end is right I'd say do whatever you can afford on the head.