Golden Eagle or AEBS

 

If you don't get the mainline explanation you should go to your machine shop and have them show you. You will understand in second if someone explains it with a motor in front of you.

Dry sleeves keep your stock cylinders. They just bore them and put thicker sleeves. Wet sleeves remove all the aluminum and replace it with cast iron making them much stronger than dry sleeves.

CSS or CylinderSupportSystem is process that adds strength to the top of the cylinder without having to install new sleeves. It's been around for a while and I have used them with success and have never heard of anyone unhappy with them. Do a google search. There is plenty of info.

Good luck with your build.

 

I have had pretty good success with benson sleeves and only used erl one time. The only time I had an issue was when I had a benson block leak oil because he accidently machined through a thin spot in the block. There was a small hole in the cavity behind the dipstick tube area (gsr block). I argued with Dan benson on the phone about it because he said it was impossible for that to happen. He wound up telling me to clean it up and use epoxy...

The customer was not interested in dealing with chasing down another block and tearing things down, so I spent a good amount of prep time and used some jb weld. I think that was 2-3 years ago now and it still runs great and makes over 700whp

For my own uses I will never have any aftermarket sleeves I like the stock stuff.

 

from what ive seen n reasearched i think ill go with the wet sleeves since it seems to have more durability.... as far as css it seems like you cant do that with h22's

 

I went with Darton Mids. After my reasearch they seem to have the most features. However, they are usually more money both to purchase and to install. They require more machining and need to be installed correctly or you will have problems... They have the upper flange which gives closed deck reliablity in a open deck design. Basically they have a css incorporated into the sleeve. They also have a phosphate coating to prevent rust which would be benefical to those using straight distilled water/water wetter. Again there probably overkill and Golden eagle/benson all those are still good choices. And Trinkeng has a point about the cooling affect CSS would provide being aluminum. He clearly stands behind his work and at youre power goals it should be something to consider, and youre wallet will be much happier. IF you plan on keeping around 400-500 i think its definatly something worth looking into

 

please dont turn this into another CSS vs Sleeve thread,

OP, do your research, if you think CSS is good for you, go for it, its cheap.

if you think you need to sleeve, go with who ever is the cheapest sleever, they all work.

 

Ahhhh. H22. At your power levels. You need to simply find a closed deck block and have replacement LA sleeves/Tiger sleeves put in. This is a the cheapest way and I ran a 500-600Hp H22 for more than 5 years like that. I even bent a rod due to detonation and the cylinder walls were fine.

 

I will PM you on sleeving information.

-Kenny

 

thanks kenny....

i tried looking into css but from the little ive read you cant do css???

I think I'd prefer to spend the extra on sleeves. I haven't been able to find much info on css to know if id do it. My goal on a build is to build it to put down 500-600 if not more (who doesnt like more hahaha) but reguardless im open to the idea. I seen a site that does it for $300 thats nice on my pocket. But i did have to laugh at their guarentee. Which was if you crack a block under or at 500whp under a yr they will reimburse the cost... Now to me anything can go wrong and thats more of a warrenty then most would even consider but handing me $300 back verse what else may be damaged in the long run... now that can happen with sleeves and so on but i feel like theres more/longer time and research put behind sleeves than css... but i can be wrong cause i dont know anything about it lol... too many decisions.... who wants to be my decision maker! lmfao

 

and what is the magic number for said critical clearance?

 

It can vary for horsepower setup AND piston brand/type. There is NO one size fits all.

 

i think i seen on average .3 or maybe it was .030 i think thats what it was not .3 right? btw i been wondering how do you go about checking and knowing what your buying is going to add up to?

 

Depending on fuel, hp range and boost usually 0.003" but as previous factors will vary.

-Kenny

 

 

The CSS is not available for H22's. Why, because where this process makes sense (500-600hp) you can simply use a closed deck H22/H23 with standard repair sleeves ($650 or less job).

BUT, if you initial goal is 500-600 and there is a good chance your going beyond that, then there is no question Ductile Iron sleeves are the way to go.

 

i got my sleeves done at jg engine dynamics. his shop doesnt exist anymore, the guy was pretty old and looked like he was not going to last very long and retired. i heard alot of bad stuff about this place but for the price he was giving me i couldnt say no. he gave me an inspected block guaranteed to be perfect, had all vin tags and with paperwork and put new design of magilla sleeves or something like that, and they were riveted and were open on top i believe. that was all JG engine dynamics did, and then he sent me to JMS Racing engines where they specialize in LS swaps, domestics, 1000hp racing boats to assemble my block using wiseco pistons and eagle rods with arp everything lol. i have been beating the crap out of motor with 91 octane boosting up to 25 psi and i have had no head gasket issues or any smoking

 

Crap..I just left instructions to go .004~.0045 for my CP piston GSR today..better call Saul

 

^^^^ you're fine at .0045 with CP's... it's always better to be a little loose than a little tight.