Piston cracked...what could have caused this? *PICS*
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From: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
Re: (champLSinteg)
When I called Wiseco, they said that the .0025 would become .0033 when the coating wore off. Even still, some people run up to .0055 for race engines. I'd bet the open DP made it run too lean, which heated everything up too much.
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Re: (HiProfile)
I had a wideband hooked up when I dynoed with the open downpipe.
.0025 is what Wiseco recommends and I did think that was a little tight but most say to go with the manufacturer's specs. My car is daily driven and only sees the track maybe 5 times a year. What should i set the clearance on the CPs?
.0025 is what Wiseco recommends and I did think that was a little tight but most say to go with the manufacturer's specs. My car is daily driven and only sees the track maybe 5 times a year. What should i set the clearance on the CPs?
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From: CT
Re: (champLSinteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by champLSinteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....What should i set the clearance on the CPs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
.0045 is what I would set them to for a FI motor.... and yes, even if it's a daily driver.
Here are the pics of a set of CP's @ .0035 and only 450whp
PS: I used a tripod to take pics. lol
.0045 is what I would set them to for a FI motor.... and yes, even if it's a daily driver.
Here are the pics of a set of CP's @ .0035 and only 450whp
PS: I used a tripod to take pics. lol
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Re: (full Circling)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
.0045 is what I would set them to for a FI motor.... and yes, even if it's a daily driver.
Here are the pics of a set of CP's @ .0035 and only 450whp
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is what my cylinders looked like when I took the head off to replace valve seals but not as bad. I didnt like the look of it but it was all smooth when I ran my finger across it so I just put the head back on.
.0045 is what I would set them to for a FI motor.... and yes, even if it's a daily driver.
Here are the pics of a set of CP's @ .0035 and only 450whp
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is what my cylinders looked like when I took the head off to replace valve seals but not as bad. I didnt like the look of it but it was all smooth when I ran my finger across it so I just put the head back on.
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From: CT
Re: (champLSinteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by champLSinteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have any trouble with oil consumption? Any piston slap? I want my motor to last for a while and not tear it apart again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No piston slap.
I'd go with Wiseco instead of CP's.... just my personal preferance now with my bad CP experience.
No piston slap.
I'd go with Wiseco instead of CP's.... just my personal preferance now with my bad CP experience.
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Re: (tepid1)
Thanks tepid1
I wanted to go with Wiseco again but I have to bore CP was cheaper in 83mm. I will set the clearance at .0045. I dont want this to happen again.
I wanted to go with Wiseco again but I have to bore CP was cheaper in 83mm. I will set the clearance at .0045. I dont want this to happen again.
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From: CT
Re: (quicksilver1689)
CP claims that with ther silicone content that they don't expand like Wiseco's do.... I call BS on that though.
In my personal experiences I will never use CP again.
They are dead accurate, but then again so are most other good pistons.
In my personal experiences I will never use CP again.
They are dead accurate, but then again so are most other good pistons.
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From: East Bay, CA, USA
Re: (tepid1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CP claims that with ther silicone content that they don't expand like Wiseco's do.... I call BS on that though.
In my personal experiences I will never use CP again.
They are dead accurate, but then again so are most other good pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What else have you experienced with CPs that you will not use them again?
In my personal experiences I will never use CP again.
They are dead accurate, but then again so are most other good pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What else have you experienced with CPs that you will not use them again?
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From: CT
Re: (champLSinteg)
The older versions of the pistons and the smaller bores (IE: 82mm and smaller) had bad valve relief design. The piston would literally break apart and distroy things. They have since then fixed the issue and redesigned the relief cuts.
Basically take a look at what most racers are using today for pistons. The market is flooded with Wiseco's in big HP motors. That says something in my book.
Basically take a look at what most racers are using today for pistons. The market is flooded with Wiseco's in big HP motors. That says something in my book.
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Re: (HiProfile)
man i hate calling the manufactures... sometimes they don't know wtf they are saying.. or maybe it's just certain stupid reps that don't know ****...
.004 is min for MOST FI setups and forged pistons.........
try .005-.006 for higher boost level and you'll be ok bro..........
make sure your machine shop is reputable as well.............
.0033 like what the rep told you is even too tight for FI setups
darn reps....
good luck on your next setup
.004 is min for MOST FI setups and forged pistons.........
try .005-.006 for higher boost level and you'll be ok bro..........
make sure your machine shop is reputable as well.............
.0033 like what the rep told you is even too tight for FI setups
darn reps....
good luck on your next setup
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Re: (BEEYOND)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BEEYOND »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man i hate calling the manufactures... sometimes they don't know wtf they are saying.. or maybe it's just certain stupid reps that don't know ****...
.004 is min for MOST FI setups and forged pistons.........
try .005-.006 for higher boost level and you'll be ok bro..........
make sure your machine shop is reputable as well.............
.0033 like what the rep told you is even too tight for FI setups
darn reps....
good luck on your next setup </TD></TR></TABLE>
it told me to actually set it at .0025 which apperantly is amazingly tight although if I went with .0035 which is what I wanted to go with it still would have been too tight.
If am going with a completely new set up and shooting for more power! Thank you all for your input and advise.
.004 is min for MOST FI setups and forged pistons.........
try .005-.006 for higher boost level and you'll be ok bro..........
make sure your machine shop is reputable as well.............
.0033 like what the rep told you is even too tight for FI setups
darn reps....
good luck on your next setup
</TD></TR></TABLE>it told me to actually set it at .0025 which apperantly is amazingly tight although if I went with .0035 which is what I wanted to go with it still would have been too tight.
If am going with a completely new set up and shooting for more power! Thank you all for your input and advise.
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From: Raleigh, NC
Re: (jasoncrashtech)
the difference between an engine builder and a putter-togetherer....
if you want big power you need to hire someone that knows wtf they are doing, not just take a mfr's/the internets word for it...
and remember the old saying... if i build it loose I know about it.. if i build it tight, everyone WILL know about it.
if you want big power you need to hire someone that knows wtf they are doing, not just take a mfr's/the internets word for it...
and remember the old saying... if i build it loose I know about it.. if i build it tight, everyone WILL know about it.
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Re: (JDogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the difference between an engine builder and a putter-togetherer....
if you want big power you need to hire someone that knows wtf they are doing, not just take a mfr's/the internets word for it...
and remember the old saying... if i build it loose I know about it.. if i build it tight, everyone WILL know about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will agree with you on this somewhat because it is my first turbo motor and I am not claiming to be an "engine builder" but I have had very good success with my N/A builds. I am used to tighter clearances for all motor set-ups using cast pistons knowing they do not expand nearly as much as forged do but apparently they expand more than I thought. I take this as a very good and expensive learning experience.
if you want big power you need to hire someone that knows wtf they are doing, not just take a mfr's/the internets word for it...
and remember the old saying... if i build it loose I know about it.. if i build it tight, everyone WILL know about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will agree with you on this somewhat because it is my first turbo motor and I am not claiming to be an "engine builder" but I have had very good success with my N/A builds. I am used to tighter clearances for all motor set-ups using cast pistons knowing they do not expand nearly as much as forged do but apparently they expand more than I thought. I take this as a very good and expensive learning experience.
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Re: (champLSinteg)
Forgive my ignorance but I am trying to learn here. What clearances are you guys talking about here? Are you saying for example that if you have 83mm pistons that your bore should be 83.0045?
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From: 41°39′10″N 72°23′29″W, Connecticut
To add... Piston to Wall clearance is only part of the equation ... even running it loose, A/F and timing plays a huge factor, Even if you run super loose .. it doesn't mean that you won't scuff a piston again..