sleeveing engine
There is two ways to break in a motor.
1. like granny and no more than 4500 rpm and never stay and the same rpm for 500 or so miles.
2. give it hell after it hit op. temperature and seat the rings.
Go with 2 if you trust the tolerances in the motor.
1. like granny and no more than 4500 rpm and never stay and the same rpm for 500 or so miles.
2. give it hell after it hit op. temperature and seat the rings.
Go with 2 if you trust the tolerances in the motor.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 0
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 0
Re: (92 CIVIC HATCH VX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92 CIVIC HATCH VX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks man for hosting</TD></TR></TABLE>you gots it 
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 260
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From: CARLSBAD, CA
Re: (92 CIVIC HATCH VX)
This information is from our Tech section on our new website http://www.dartonsleeves.com
Engine Break-In
Fill the engine with a good grade of mineral oil (not synthetic) with viscosity for your bearing clearance and intended use. Prime the oil system before engine start with ignition off using the engine or dyno starter. We require break-in and tuning using an engine dyno or chassis dyno as follows:
After initial start up, warm up engine at 2000-2500. Precaution should be exercised to prevent excessively rich or lean conditions, which will gall the cylinders. Monitor oil pressure and temperatures.
After initial run, adjust valves if using adjustable valve train and retorque heads. Check for leaks.
Street engines will require multiple run ins with increasing rpm and load up to maximum output.
Use of a dyno allows one to apply a pre-set load to allow the piston rings, and other components to seat properly. It is also much easier to monitor temperatures and pressures than while driving. Most dynos are equipped with O≈ and EGT probes to aid in tuning. The timing and fuel curve needs to be tailored to your particular engine to ensure the engine stays out of detonation, which will lead to engine failure. A racing engine is generally built with sufficient clearance to require no further break-in after dyno tuning and power runs. However, we
recommend head bolt torques be re-checked cold after dyno testing as the head gaskets will take a set. Remember to replace oil and filter after the dyno session as bearing coatings and metal particles will be trapped in the oil filter. Inspect the oil for foreign material and excessive bearing flakes.
A street engine should be driven moderately for the first thousand miles, as follows:
full throttle high torque power useage should be limited and never be used until the engine has been running for at least 15 minutes.
from 0-500 miles, do not exceed 4000 rpm.
from 500-1000, do not exceed 6000 rpm.
over 1000 miles, no restrictions.
Also, do not run at the same speed for extended periods during break-in. Make certain the engine is operating at proper coolant temperature and oil pressure. Do not allow the engine to overheat. Make necessary changes if required (radiator, fan, tuning) to get the engine to run in the proper temperature range. We also recommend you do not run synthetic oil until at least 5000 miles. Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break in properly if it is used too soon.
Engine Break-In
Fill the engine with a good grade of mineral oil (not synthetic) with viscosity for your bearing clearance and intended use. Prime the oil system before engine start with ignition off using the engine or dyno starter. We require break-in and tuning using an engine dyno or chassis dyno as follows:
After initial start up, warm up engine at 2000-2500. Precaution should be exercised to prevent excessively rich or lean conditions, which will gall the cylinders. Monitor oil pressure and temperatures.
After initial run, adjust valves if using adjustable valve train and retorque heads. Check for leaks.
Street engines will require multiple run ins with increasing rpm and load up to maximum output.
Use of a dyno allows one to apply a pre-set load to allow the piston rings, and other components to seat properly. It is also much easier to monitor temperatures and pressures than while driving. Most dynos are equipped with O≈ and EGT probes to aid in tuning. The timing and fuel curve needs to be tailored to your particular engine to ensure the engine stays out of detonation, which will lead to engine failure. A racing engine is generally built with sufficient clearance to require no further break-in after dyno tuning and power runs. However, we
recommend head bolt torques be re-checked cold after dyno testing as the head gaskets will take a set. Remember to replace oil and filter after the dyno session as bearing coatings and metal particles will be trapped in the oil filter. Inspect the oil for foreign material and excessive bearing flakes.
A street engine should be driven moderately for the first thousand miles, as follows:
full throttle high torque power useage should be limited and never be used until the engine has been running for at least 15 minutes.
from 0-500 miles, do not exceed 4000 rpm.
from 500-1000, do not exceed 6000 rpm.
over 1000 miles, no restrictions.
Also, do not run at the same speed for extended periods during break-in. Make certain the engine is operating at proper coolant temperature and oil pressure. Do not allow the engine to overheat. Make necessary changes if required (radiator, fan, tuning) to get the engine to run in the proper temperature range. We also recommend you do not run synthetic oil until at least 5000 miles. Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break in properly if it is used too soon.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,175
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From: Kansas
Re: (92 CIVIC HATCH VX)
just got off of the phone with the guy who cryo treats the parts.
he said:
get my crank and bearing's and cams done with my rockers also.
he said my turbo would be a good choice also, but i would have to take it apart cause he does not want the seals to get damaged
he said:
get my crank and bearing's and cams done with my rockers also.
he said my turbo would be a good choice also, but i would have to take it apart cause he does not want the seals to get damaged
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Re: (MidShipCivic)
waiting for cody to get my down pipe back to me from love fab and then items go out for coating.
Picked up a gsr lsd tranny for my h2b swap
pick up a exedy 9lbs flywheel
picked up some hasport b-seies mounts for the h2b
picked up a tilton twin disc clutch
picked up drive shaft shop stage 5 axles
waiting for parts to be coated then install and brake in.
Picked up a gsr lsd tranny for my h2b swap
pick up a exedy 9lbs flywheel
picked up some hasport b-seies mounts for the h2b
picked up a tilton twin disc clutch
picked up drive shaft shop stage 5 axles
waiting for parts to be coated then install and brake in.
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
Likes: 10
From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Re: (92 CIVIC HATCH VX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92 CIVIC HATCH VX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">waiting for cody to get my down pipe back to me from love fab and then items go out for coating.
Picked up a gsr lsd tranny for my h2b swap
pick up a exedy 9lbs flywheel
picked up some hasport b-seies mounts for the h2b
picked up a tilton twin disc clutch
picked up drive shaft shop stage 5 axles
waiting for parts to be coated then install and brake in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the tilton comes with its own flywheel
Picked up a gsr lsd tranny for my h2b swap
pick up a exedy 9lbs flywheel
picked up some hasport b-seies mounts for the h2b
picked up a tilton twin disc clutch
picked up drive shaft shop stage 5 axles
waiting for parts to be coated then install and brake in.
</TD></TR></TABLE>the tilton comes with its own flywheel
