da love

Was going take my block to richtuned tomorrow to have it sleeved, I plan on using arp head studs for the block, do I need to modify the block In anyway to use studs please help

WackyRicanMan

iTrader: (2)

What head are you using?

Here is the info I believe you need.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/arp-head-studs-ls-vtec-2911466/

da love

I will be using a gsr head, thank you.

da love

I'm kinda new at this engine building thing any help would be awesome, feel free to pick apart my plan, I would love to know everybody's opinions on my setup, and if I'm missing anything please let me know this is my first motor build trying to do it the right way the first time. For the head I plan on using skunk 2 pro series 2 cams, springs, retainers, lost motion assembly's and supertech stainless valves. For the block I'm kind of undecided I don't know what pistons and rods to use I want to make at around 400 horse reliably and steet driven.I am going to have golden eagle sleeve it through richtuned in auburn wa.

blackeg

you most certainly do not want to use pro2 cams...type r or tuner1 are more than enough cam


you also dont need stainless valves oem valves work more than fine they are stronger than you think.

i recommend using a bore of 84mm you will love the extra tq and displacement.

pretty much pick any name brand forged piston try and shoot for a compression ratio between 9 and 10:1. if you use cp pistons i would make the piston to wall more like .004 most others can run with .0035". cant go wrong with eagle rods but i hear the brian crower rods weigh a bit less and are very close together in weight between rods if i remember correctly.

there is soo much more too it like drivetrain, turbo setup, fuel and engine management. dont be afraid to search and read like crazy

da love

Why not pro 2s to much for the street? I have heard that they have a rough idle quality for a daily driver, but make pretty good power. Isn't the max bore on ge sleeves 84mm, I planed to use a hondata s300 for engine management and a aftermarket fuel pump, I'm not really working on a budget I plan on taking my time so I can get it right, is their anything else I should have done to the block while I have it sleeved I planed on getting it o ringed

WackyRicanMan

iTrader: (2)

Click on my build in my sig, I am building a stock sleeve 400whp LS/VTEC right now.

81.5MM LS Block Stock sleeve
9:1CR Mahle PowerPak Pistons
Eagle Rods
CTR B16 Head w/ GSR Cams (Looking for ITR or Pro 1s)
ARP Head studs
Custom T3 Manifold
Garrett T3/TO4E .57 trim .63 a/r
Tial 38mm wastegate
3" Exhaust with a resonator and Vibrant muffler
JDM GSR Trans
Competition Stage 3 Clutch
Competition 12lbs flywheel

btw here is a good read. Listen to what the shodan says. He is a god on here.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/skunk2-pro2-cams-good-turbo-setup-2909592/

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That read is a little outdated, actually. Some great strides with some different camshaft companies have proven a lot of that wrong over the last 2.5 years.

mechanix619

Keep things simple. For 400 HP you don't need to have the block sleeved. Also, if you're dead set on sleeves then have Golden Eagle do the machine work. I'm not saying a local shop can't do it but GE would be the preferable choice. Springs and retainers would be nice. Stock valves will work fine. Stock pistons and rods would also work. ARP hardware would be appropriate.

da love

Reliability wise wouldn't sleeving be the best over stock sleeves can they really handle 400 hp ?

mechanix619

Reliability is in the tune.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Attachment 526254

WackyRicanMan

iTrader: (2)

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Agreed. I'm good, but God-like, ummm.. nah.. But thank you... (I think..)