not that at all. but i swore to travis i wont say anything. ive been patiently waiting for thrm to start production on them.

over the next year id like to do some pistons over 10:5 and definitely bigger cams. block posts are still holding the cylinder walls great. buddy is tryin to convince me to test them by throwing race gas at them. got big plans both of our builds

 

so after four years and two nasty burnouts, the clutch gave out. it was a clutch master fx400. new turbo is on the way. old one and downpipe are off. think i mite take care of this dented *** downpipe this year

 

 

quick updates. flywheel and clutch are installed too tried from work to go on. plan on hittin it again tomorrow morning. along with pics.

oh, i forgot. im pretty much replacing parts that have been on my car since 09.

omnipower clutch master cylinder
walbro
clutch masters fx400( ****** somehow got the four puck, nof six puck).
skunk2 pro s' are on the list off 09 parts, but prolly wont get to it til 2016

 

Nice! You'll enjoy the upgrade.

 

sorry didnt take do a boat load of pics this go round.

plans was to wrap my oil pan in the rest of my gold tape. but ive been so tired from the crazy hours from work. i swapped out the tga 6157 to try the tga 5857. boy ole boy, big difference. umm, lets just say it spools faster than my 57trim on my setup. definitely have to change out my bov spring tho. **** makes a loud flutter duck sounding tune. gregs making the move already on that for me.

first time every having a light weight flywheel. again, definitely a noticable difference in a good way. i went with an act streetlite. first time on a four puck clutch. engagement is a little different from a six puck, but not far off. nothing i cant handle already.

went pick up some klotz 75w90, but they were out. two weeks in a row. so i just grabbed some bs from autozone. itll only be driven this weekend anyway for break in anyway, until winter is over.

all in all, very happy with it on the variation of parts that are on here now

 

update.

when it warms up over thirty degrees ill be installing this catch can kit, along with a power cell battery, and changing out my old 255hp pump for a new one.

 

update!


so i started installing my catch can setup. located an easily drainable location, and removed the charcoal canister. only thing with the cans location, it requires the oem strut bar to be mounted backwards. so got the can mounted, charcoal canister, pcv system, breather can hole plugged, and passenger side freeze plug removed. so far a good day. then comes the driver side freeze plug, the wrench slips right out and rounded the ghey freeze plug. also felt like it needed alot more torque than the other side. so now i need ideals:

1.) reinstall the other freeze plug, and run a valve cover vented setup.

2.) rip the motor and tranny out then finagle some setup to get the round plug out.

3.) take to a welder to have the 14mm allen socket welded to the plug.

4.) some how getting the 15mm allen socket pressed in to plug .[URL=http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/lsjoker/media/IMG_20150301_100047588_zpsztzsumcw.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/lsjoker/media/IMG_20150301_100054710_zpsxewvvboi.jpg.html][/URL

id rather not do any hammering toward my block. but, im open for suggestions

i also purchased a valve cover breather filter to put on the vent line coming from the gas tank. i just need to open the hole up a little bit to fit over the hardline.

 

had to put one of the radiator heaters in the garage in front of the car. the coolant got all slushy on me couple weeks ago.

 

Nice view

 

upon futher investigation, ive decide to vent the valve cover. thatll be dropped off at pure tuning tomorrow then picked up wednesday after work.

 

 

Looks good. I wouldve done them on the back of the vc tho

 

thanks.

not baffled on the intake side. less chance of oil pushin through on the oem exhaust baffling side under hard acceleration.

prolly about three hours of work to be done until start up. then ill be putting some miles on the car til aprilish. then itll be time for a refresh on my tune.

 

U should probably wrap the manifold ...it's cramped in there

 

Maybe.. but those nylon lines will melt like butter, based upon how you have this setup.. Its questionable even with the exhaust manifold wrapped. at minimum, if not using steel braided line, DEI fire-sleeve the lines, and wrap the exhaust manifold. that's asking for a bit of trouble there.

Simply an observation. Nothing more.

 

i actually have been thinking bout wrapping the manifold for months now.

got the car running still has the finky idle when after start up, and on decel in neutral. im gona make some changes again in the fuel trims. and play with thr iac.

fuel pump strainer was disgusting.

 

The idle hunts?


What ems?

 

s300 v2. it only hunts when cold.

upon decel in neutral, car idles at 1100, when its moving idle is set at 1500.

car ran great after work when it was warmer out. AFRs definitely need touched up. anyone know after its retuned, will it automatically change the fuel compensation parameters.

and ill be in the market for a milspec harness or so. any recommendations

 

Under the idle tab under ignition controlled idle

What values do you have in there? In both high and low.

Whats your base timing set at?

I have a rock solid idle at 15 afr or 16. I have a base idle of 8 degrees and under my ignition feedback i have a correction of up to 10 degrees.

The ecu can correct the idle faster with ignition timing than it can with iacv.

Try adding more timing both advanced and retarded in those parameters and see if it cleans up your idle.

Aem lets you set a duty rate for every rpm on cold starts so its easier to tune out. Thats not possible with hondata it looks like.

 

Took this pic just now


This is my cold start af using the method i posted



No popping or stalling

 

i always have the base timing set at sixteen degrees. and ive never touched idle ignitions. cant remember why, but ive never touched ignitions on any of the parameters.

during colder temps, it also barely pulls any vacuum while idling.

im gona read up on jazzin the ignition. and ill take pic of thr vacuum and afr in the morning when it cold.

edit: so after reading the tech page it sounds like the low needs advance as for starters. im gona try a few dregrees increase across the board on low ignition. should i change the rpm range input values as well

 

 

 

alrite so i need some experienced help here. i wondering if i aswell a a few ht members can overcome this cam surge through the ignition compensation parameters. my tuner worked on the part throttle for awhile last tune. although he didnt do a street tune, while on the dyno, he just noted these cams a on/off switch.

ive been hearing pretty much sides of the story. it can be tuned out, or thats just how some aftermarket cams are. every aftermarket pair i had did this. every member that has this manufactuers camshafts share the same experience.

any input