ownedbyvtec

Im about to install my turbo kit on my gsr, but dont have the piping made for it and need to put the kit on before i get the pipping done so it will perfectly. So my main concern is, is it safe to drive the car a/b 15-20 miles w/ absoutly no charge pipes, ic piping and bov on the car at all?

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

I have been wondering the same thing. I want to install everthing and just leave a charge pipe off so I can just run it N/A until I get to the tuner. Then plug in the Hondata, and pop the charge pipe on and turn it over to the tuner.

But would it run right like this? Would that be stressful on the turbo/wg/mani somehow?

Deluzional

Yea its fine to run without a charge pipe, you wont be boosting at all. I once had to drive on the freeway going about 65mph with no boost because a charge pipe got loose

BlackKnight7

I think this has been covered at least twice in the last month, but I'm in a good mood. Ok if you leave the charge pipes off there will be no resitance and your turbo will have no limit as to how fast it will spin, it's a bad idea. Theres a crappy solution to this by just allowing the flapper to be open, but you are better off just not driving the car in this condition.

Jake D.


Modified by BlackKnight7 at 3:01 AM 3/26/2004

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Thank you BlackKnight7, that kind of crossed my mind. But I feel it would be safer to drive my car like this,NA on the stock map/tuning until I could get it tuned. It just seems like actually running boost with half assed tuning like an FMU is asking for serious engine damage.

I am sorry but what is a flapper? Could you just run piping to the IC and put a second air filter on the exit side of the IC? Would that provide adaquate resistance? And just run the car NA with the SRI until you get to the tuner?

BlackKnight7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am sorry but what is a flapper? </TD></TR></TABLE>

By flapper I meant wastegate flapper (or the little door that lets exhaust gases out and in turn controls boost), if you tip the little nome he will hold it open for you. Or you could bypass him and just disconnect the actuator arm. I am talking about internal wastegates only, I'm not experience with that other type.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Could you just run piping to the IC and put a second air filter on the exit side of the IC? Would that provide adaquate resistance? And just run the car NA with the SRI until you get to the tuner?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is an odd idea. I do not believe an air filter would be enough resistance. I can't really think of a system that would allow you to drive without hooking up the IC piping.

Here's why I had a dime size leak in my IC piping and my car would not make any boost no matter how hard a pushed the car. However, you can't simply cap the turbo outlet unless you want a potato gun under your hood. So making a system this way would require way more engineering than should ever be necessary for a bandaid.

Do you people plan your projects before you start them? I see two or three posts a day where people need to drive somewhere else on there half completed car to finish the project, and they always want to know how to get it there.

Jake D.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackKnight7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you people plan your projects before you start them? I see two or three posts a day where people need to drive somewhere else on there half completed car to finish the project, and they always want to know how to get it there.

Jake D.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats why I am here now. I have yet to order a single part. I am just planning. I am trying to find a good solution to this problem before I encounter it.

rjardy

you will over rev your turbo, bad, dont do it.


Rob

iiilgsrlll

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It just seems like actually running boost with half assed tuning like an FMU is asking for serious engine damage.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is running an FMU asking for serious damage? It has been proven to work over the years and know of many people, including myself, who ran it back in the days successfully and reliably for over 2 years (Before Hondata). Sure it doesn't beat a standalone but it does work.

rjardy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iiilgsrlll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why is running an FMU asking for serious damage?</TD></TR></TABLE>


It's not, he is ignorant. Its been proven as you said. Not good for hihg boost true, but it works great for what it is.


Rob

lilxvtecxpwr

you'll run the risk of overspinning you're turbo.

if you want to drive to your tuner with no management, just install the full kit and drive there. just stay out of boost. everything will be fine.

quikB18B

$75 tow vs $600 Turbo, seems like a no brainer to me.


If you don't want to pay for towing then fabricate the piping yourself, **** for the cost of the tow you could buy all your piping, and then have this place weld it in a couple places. You can do all the measurements yourself and install everything from your house.

If you don't want to do this yourself, then pay for towing.

tegrakid

i drove mine without piping for a week, seems to run fine with 6psi aint had a problem yet

ownedbyvtec

i wish i could tow my car but its slammed to the ground, it will never clear a flat bed.

SiRex91

Just pull off the turbo and put the stock exhaust manifold on it. There's a a big risk of overspinning the turbo and ruining it

BlackKnight7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegrakid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i drove mine without piping for a week, seems to run fine with 6psi aint had a problem yet</TD></TR></TABLE>

Look over revving the turbo is not good for it. Just because your turbo works fine now does not mean that you haven't damaged it. If you like spending more money to fix things thats your business.

Jake D.

BlackKnight7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRex91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just pull off the turbo and put the stock exhaust manifold on it. There's a a big risk of overspinning the turbo and ruining it </TD></TR></TABLE>

This would work, however if you are going to do this, you need to return all your fuel management, with the exception of the pump back to stock, or atleast tune it to run stockish. At this point why don't you just do the whole swap in one place, or mock up your turbo, and intercooler and build the piping. Then bring it back to where you are going to be installing everything and do so.

Jake D.

Marauder

Just don't rev the engine past 2000 rpm....and have fun driving SLOW.

japspec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iiilgsrlll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why is running an FMU asking for serious damage? It has been proven to work over the years and know of many people, including myself, who ran it back in the days successfully and reliably for over 2 years (Before Hondata). Sure it doesn't beat a standalone but it does work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm glad somebody said something. He must think everybody on here has a grandmother or parent with a gang of money to give away.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

I meant running it with the fuel only adjusted via AFC, which with me being the one that would have to adjust it, would be a pretty blind approach. I did not mean to put FMU. I just had it on my mind because I was thinking that I might just hook up an FMU to drive around on. Is that what I should do? Run an FMU to the tuner?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lilxvtecxpwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'll run the risk of overspinning you're turbo.

if you want to drive to your tuner with no management, just install the full kit and drive there. just stay out of boost. everything will be fine. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just don't rev the engine past 2000 rpm....and have fun driving SLOW.</TD></TR></TABLE>
...its 5 hours at 70mph...2krpms on 5th is what 40mph....I'd never get there

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjardy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


It's not, he is ignorant. Its been proven as you said. Not good for hihg boost true, but it works great for what it is.


Rob</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks man, I am glad there are such helpfull people on here. So tell me, did you just wake up one morning with endless turbo knowledge? Or did you learn at one point too?

rjardy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jfoster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks man, I am glad there are such helpfull people on here. So tell me, did you just wake up one morning with endless turbo knowledge? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes......yes I did.


C'mon man, of course not, but I did however get my facts straight before I tried to give others my opinion/help.


Rob

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I apologize for not making my statement more clear the first time. I meant for my entire post to be like a question, as I don't know, but would like help straightening this whole part of my plan out. I am not trying to guide others here, as I am attemping to find my best route as it is.

So I should just install everything and run an FMU to the tuner, once I am there pull the FMU and plug in the Hondata?

If I use the FMU that comes with a Drag kit, at the recomended psi (7psi or what ever Drag suggests), what should I do about the injectors? I plan to run 550s but would the car run right with an FMU and 550s????

showtymers619

i didnt read any of it except the first post...

yes its ok depending where your wastegate is getting its boost...if its tapped from the turbo itself then its ok.. the wastegate will open up .. but if the wastegate line "vacuum" is tapped intake manifold area.. then its bad it will never see pressure