Full Race A6

Im learning bare with me lol. But I cant find the answers to these. I was planning on boosting 16psi daily driven but Im new and its just not feasable. So Now I plan to run 12-13psi for racing/track and like 7-8 daily driven. Just need some simple help.

If anyone could give me a list of what an S-Afc II, Boost controller and Ive seen an MSD ingnition type thing that had a dial that you could change from 1-4, just want to know what that was, only saw a pic.

If you could just state what the S-AFCII does like
-air/fuel setting can be adjusted
-a/f can be monitorred
-volatage can be monitoreed

and stuff like that, just so I know what each can change and such.

I havent looked into boost controllers but the S-afc cannot change this right? So you need a whole nother unit to control this? Is there a very easy/cheap one on the market for a newer less experience person?

Thanks, and yes I searched this site for the last week non stop reading from 2am-5am, back to work, back on here and Turbod16

Thanks

beepy

The S-AFCII can:

1) Alter the MAF or MAP signal from the sensor to the ECU at 12 user-selected points. (Points in between are calculated by a straight line approximation)

Basically it increases or decreases the signal by up to 50%, and the ECU still determines how much time to open the injectors. But you are "tricking" the ECU into doing what you want.

This allows you to run larger injectors, and allows to you enrichen or lean the mixture until it is juuust right.

The Greddy eManage without the additional software only does 8 points, and the S-AFC only does 5.

2) Additionally, the S-AFCII has a knock sensor warning to tell you when detonation is about to occur. (You must have a factory knock sensor) If you don't have a wideband, at least you will be able to tune out detonation.

3) The S-AFCII also has sensors for other things, like correction %, AFR, etc., and limited datalogging capabilities.

If you have a VTEC engine, you will be better off with the V-AFCII which is the same but can alter the VTEC shift point.

A boost controller is simply a device that can increase boost over what your wastegate is designed to do, by bleeding off pressure in the wastegate signal. It cannot reduce boost. With this item, you can have the boost in a curve instead of just a plateau. But I wouldn't mess with it. it is too easy to overboost and blow the motor.

Don't know what the MSD thing is. Probably just a switch.

Full Race A6

No I dont have a vtec motor. I knew the Safc could -/+ 50% fuel with bigger injectors of your choice (mine are 450's)

I just thought it could monitor a few more things

Also the boost controller. You say its a harmful method? Is there any alternatives? Cheap and as easy as a boost controller

By MSD, I mean the ignition **** and it said like boost retard with the number 1-4 and a dial.

But I cant find it anywhere. I thought you could play with your timing and the turn of a switch, would be awesome

beepy

I wouldn't say a boost controller is "harmful", it is just easy to turn the dial wrong and overboost the engine.

The safest method, if you have an external wastegate, is to just use the proper spring for the level of boost you want.

Full Race A6

Yes I do have an external 38mm wastegate. 7pound spring, Will be perfect for daily driving but 7psi for the races/track = fuxor

pngfolife

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full Race A6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No I dont have a vtec motor. I knew the Safc could -/+ 50% fuel with bigger injectors of your choice (mine are 450's)

I just thought it could monitor a few more things

Also the boost controller. You say its a harmful method? Is there any alternatives? Cheap and as easy as a boost controller

By MSD, I mean the ignition **** and it said like boost retard with the number 1-4 and a dial.

But I cant find it anywhere. I thought you could play with your timing and the turn of a switch, would be awesome</TD></TR></TABLE>

The MSD BTM is lame ****, don't even bother. Just get a standalone and do it right the first time. If you don't have the money, start saving right now. Hondata ain't that expensive and you already have bigger injectors so stop fooling around with the piggybacks unless you absolutely have to like me.

Full Race A6

Its not even that I dont want Hondata or any standalone for that matter, its just that its expensive, not noob friendly and I cant tune it myself.

Also, with a standalone I would want to run more boost and build my motor ever more and push and push.

I know with an S-afc 12psi is as high as Im going, easy install, easy tuning, noob friendly and CHEAP on the wallet.

Have another suggestion for ignition then?