Black R

Hi,

I know this may sound like a strange request, but is it possible to:

Relocate the stock oil cooler / oil filter mounting from the block and mount it remotely?

Relocate the stock black breather box from the block and mount it remotely, or do away with it in favor of something better?

I'm looking to free up some space on the back side of the block, so that I can work more easily in this area.

wunfstgsr

Yea man theres a few good plug and play oil cooler relocation kits available. and also what people do is eliminate the black box on the back and run a catch can vent system. theres a few popular kits but most these require the battery to be relocated but there is a kit that fits in the battery location and still houses the battery.

Heres the kit I'm looking to get soon because i don't want to relocate my battery,
Honda/Acura Catch Can/Battery

Heres a popular kit by BWR,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blackworks-Racing-BWR-race-Series-Catch-Tank-Can-integra-EK-EG-DC2-GSR-Civic-/321564993880?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4adec46958&vxp=mtr
Heres a good oil filter relocation kit by blox,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLOX-Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit-Universal-Black-/360503219444?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53efaa94f4&vxp=mtr

Black R

My battery is already relocated.

And I have a catch can off the valve cover, so I don't mind venting the crankcase and getting rid of the stock black box too.

Also I don't just want to relocate my oil filter, I want to relocate the housing that the filter normally screws on - or even eliminate it and use an external oil cooler.

wunfstgsr

Well depending on your catch can you should run two lines from the block to the can.

Well you would have to have the oil cooler blocked off and tap a new source to the aftermarket oil cooler. I can't think of a spot to tap on the block or where it would work best. Honda placed it there for a reason and relocating it might cause some issues if the block was designed for the oil to flow there in specific but i could be dead wrong it probably has been done countless times considering the vast amounts of B series swaps in many different chassis around the world.

LTCxD2B

The stock cooler should come off and have just the regular threads like a regular block then a relocation with attached cooler can go on ... When u do ur next oil change look in the cooler and see if there is a nut shape at the base of the threads

Black R

Correct.

I just wanted to make sure there weren't other concerns with eliminating or relocating the stock joke of an "oil cooler."

I need to research more to see what sort of plug to put where the old black box goes - it's a big weird hole / tube where it connects to the block.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Can't you just use a B16 oil filter bolt after removing the stock cooler? Cap off the coolant lines. Then run a real oil cooler.

I wouldn't just take it out altogether without adding another cooler.

Also...premade oil cooler kits are for *******.

F22Master

Just use a metal freeze plug for the black box hole. Google it, it has been done before.

Black R

Yes, I thought I'd seen a pic with pn's.
I'll search around.




My intention is to do exactly this: small oil cooler + remote filter.

Dallasb84

Please check out my carbon breather box. It comes with a nice carbon bracket so you can ditch the factory battery tray. I have a thread in forced induction with plenty of pictures too. Looks very nice and performs very well.

I can supply all fittings and lines.

Black R

I like the z10 breather box plug because it's easily removable, but it's $30!
And they want $15 to ship it via usps!

So I checked eBay and found a generic one:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=251628285157


$17.85 shipped!


Now I just need to figure out how get rid of the factory oil cooler and clean up the area it normally resides in...

Black R

Here's a pic I took last night - showing the nuts that go on the studs under runner 2, 3, and 4.



#1 is almost impossible to reach.

2 and 3 are nearly as bad, and 4 is the least difficult - but still a pain.

For 1 and 2, I was able to use a 12mm gearwrench with a hinged head - after getting the nut started by using a small magnet on a stick to hold it in place while I tightened it a revolution using my finger.

I have removed the black breather box, but wouldn't mind cutting it down and rewelding it to be 1/2 to 1/3 of its original size - then using it as a return, since the seal and bolt that hold it in place are so useful.

It looks like I may not have to relocate the factory oil cooler - although it would make my life a bit easier if I could...