quick requestion about breaking in motor
Im breaking in the motor using stock injectors and p72 boost map off stock map sensor on S300, and open wastegate (to bleed off most of the air to not create any boost)
Reason for making boost map on stock map sensor is to be safe in case it does hit boost...but shouldnt, only be 1-2 psi at most..
im going to keep an eye on the AFR, add a couple percent for overall fuel trim for 83 bore...make a few high rpm runs and decelerations, change oil, check temperature, coolant etc...and drive it around for few hundred miles before i beat the crap out of it with 1000cc injectors and high boost!
Like i mention before i like to drive the car around to be sure it has no problems, lesson the chances of extreme damage if there is a problem before boost...and as Mase stated, you want to seat your rings in correctly and not wash them out running rich! When setting up for 1000cc injectors, you are going to naturally start off rich and work your way leaner to get a correct AFR, by then your rings could be washed or not seated very well..
But to each their own...
Reason for making boost map on stock map sensor is to be safe in case it does hit boost...but shouldnt, only be 1-2 psi at most..
im going to keep an eye on the AFR, add a couple percent for overall fuel trim for 83 bore...make a few high rpm runs and decelerations, change oil, check temperature, coolant etc...and drive it around for few hundred miles before i beat the crap out of it with 1000cc injectors and high boost!
Like i mention before i like to drive the car around to be sure it has no problems, lesson the chances of extreme damage if there is a problem before boost...and as Mase stated, you want to seat your rings in correctly and not wash them out running rich! When setting up for 1000cc injectors, you are going to naturally start off rich and work your way leaner to get a correct AFR, by then your rings could be washed or not seated very well..
But to each their own...
You guys make break in too complicated. Throw on your NA header and keep the stock injectors/sensors. Break it in NA with the stock ECU. Aftermarket injectors and sensors are easy to swap in later. Install the turbo parts then baby it to the tuner.
I did this with my motor. Compression was dropped a full point, and the engine was enlarged by 176cc. I monitored AFRs with a wideband and it was fine. Obviously there wasnt enough timing with the stock ecu (on a low compression big bore engine) so it was slow and sluggish but that wont hurt anything. Drive it around and break it in.
This also makes troubleshooting easier because its simplier. You dont want to be trying to track down a mysterious rattle when in the back of your mind your not sure if maybe its detonation. etc
I did this with my motor. Compression was dropped a full point, and the engine was enlarged by 176cc. I monitored AFRs with a wideband and it was fine. Obviously there wasnt enough timing with the stock ecu (on a low compression big bore engine) so it was slow and sluggish but that wont hurt anything. Drive it around and break it in.
This also makes troubleshooting easier because its simplier. You dont want to be trying to track down a mysterious rattle when in the back of your mind your not sure if maybe its detonation. etc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Hankey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hear what you guys are saying, im by no means saying anyone is wrong. I talked to more then one aem certified tuner they all told me that both ways are ok if you have a wideband for monitoring your a/f. They all said there was some break in period. On the dyno or not, it still cant be driven really hard on a fresh build with f/i off the dyno or it wont last very long. Like i said before, if a few certified tuners tell me to do the same thing im going to do what they say, and theyre all saying there is at least some breakin period that you cant drive it hard (over 4krpms).
Thanks mase, thats exactly what my builder is doing for me. Im glad that someone actually tunes cars for a living commented on this thread.
Modified by Mr.Hankey at 7:12 PM 12/6/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
well thats something of a compromise i guess. breaking it in but getting a partial tune before doign it
Thanks mase, thats exactly what my builder is doing for me. Im glad that someone actually tunes cars for a living commented on this thread.
Modified by Mr.Hankey at 7:12 PM 12/6/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
well thats something of a compromise i guess. breaking it in but getting a partial tune before doign it
now the big question after all of this breakin stuff is where to get a wideband that doesnt cost a lot of money. I see aem makes one, but im not sure i want to throw 250 down. Anyone know of a sponser or even just a cheap alternative that is proven to have stability.
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