Questions for H22 turbo setup in hatch
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Questions for H22 turbo setup in hatch
Whats up people, I am about to get a hatch with an H22 in it and I am trying to plan out my turbo build but I have a few questions. I will be buying the parts shortly after I receive the car. I have been looking at some of the H22 turbo kits on Ebay for an H22 setup and I found one that includes about everything except the IC piping, and FMU for $850. seems pretty decent. I curious about fuel management, I have been looking at and OBX 12:1 FMU and I figure that it should be satisfactory for about 9psi or so. I don't plan on running alot of boost. As far as feeding the oil to the turbo, I think just about everyone puts a T fitting on the oil sensor port, is there another alternative? where should I weld the oil return line fitting on the oil pan? where should I tap into the coolant lines at? What fuel pump should I use, the Walbro 190lph or 255plh? any help would be appreciated.
#3
I wouldn't try to run 9psi on a stock h22 with an FMU if I were you unless you're looking for a reason to rebuild your motor. Check out the FAQ for the answers to all of your questions.
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Well I had and Older supra the I built and added a turbo. I used a cartech rising rate fuel pressure regulator and it was good up to 9psi. thats what I am planning on using with this setup. Why won't an FMU work? what is the maximum psi an FMU will work? I looked at the FAQ, alot of useful info.
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I am also looking into how the Hondata works. It appears that you can get the module with boost detection or something. anyway, would this be all that is needed along with upgraded fuel pump and ossibly injectors?
#6
The cartech FMU works pretty well, but the problem is that you'll still be running the stock timing, which is too advanced for 9psi and can cause detonation that will break your ringlands.
The weakest point of a stock h22 are the ringlands - I would say that anything over ~7-8 psi is getting risky, especially without adjusting the timing.
If you insist on 9 psi, I'd get hondata or crome and get a really good tune. Even at that, I wouldn't be surprised if you have to rebuild after a couple months. You might want to check into the mahle gold series pistons, they use the stock sleeves and can handle a lot more boost. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1406865
The weakest point of a stock h22 are the ringlands - I would say that anything over ~7-8 psi is getting risky, especially without adjusting the timing.
If you insist on 9 psi, I'd get hondata or crome and get a really good tune. Even at that, I wouldn't be surprised if you have to rebuild after a couple months. You might want to check into the mahle gold series pistons, they use the stock sleeves and can handle a lot more boost. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1406865
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no i don't mind running around 7-8 psi. the civic i am picking up has adjustable aem cam gears in it. I guess i could reatrd the timing from there but i will probably have someone else do that as i have only done one turbo install and never on a honda
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#8
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Re: (h22a_junkie)
Good luck!
Read other similar posts and get a little information. H22 swaps vibrate a little more than the small block swaps but have great torque/streetability.
Read other similar posts and get a little information. H22 swaps vibrate a little more than the small block swaps but have great torque/streetability.
#10
Re: (h22a_junkie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22a_junkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no i don't mind running around 7-8 psi. the civic i am picking up has adjustable aem cam gears in it. I guess i could reatrd the timing from there but i will probably have someone else do that as i have only done one turbo install and never on a honda</TD></TR></TABLE>
theres no way thats gonna work. to run like 7-8 psi you would need to retard timing by like 5-8 degrees up top. you arent going to do that with a cam gear. cam gears adjust the timing of the valves NOT the ignition. if you dont want to get any sort of EMS (which is highly unadvised) you should consider using some sort of mechanical timing adjustment like an MSD BTM.
Either way, i'd have a back up plan in case the motor blows, cause without the ability to tune several load cells in fuel and timing, the chances are greatly elevated.
theres no way thats gonna work. to run like 7-8 psi you would need to retard timing by like 5-8 degrees up top. you arent going to do that with a cam gear. cam gears adjust the timing of the valves NOT the ignition. if you dont want to get any sort of EMS (which is highly unadvised) you should consider using some sort of mechanical timing adjustment like an MSD BTM.
Either way, i'd have a back up plan in case the motor blows, cause without the ability to tune several load cells in fuel and timing, the chances are greatly elevated.
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the more i look into how the hondata system works the more my opinion sways towards that. from what i am understanding with the hondata, I basically purchase a module, such as s100 or s200, place it in a p28 ecu, remove jumper 12 and have my car tuned by someone with a programmer? looks like i can adjust the fuel for boost up to 29psi and you can adjust the ignition timing. am i getting this correct? if so this would be much easier than going with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
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if i would have know it was that easy i would have never considered a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. i had an old skool 85 supra that i boosted before and never had that option
#16
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Re: (h22a_junkie)
Arias pistons (10:1), Crower billet rods, new micro polished crank, JG ported head, Prodrive oil pump gear, Golden Eagle intake, 70 mm throttle body, Darton sleeves, Arp studs, Cooling mist water/alcohol injection, Moroso aluminum pan, Revhard exhaust man., GT30 turbo, large intercooler, Fluidyne radiator, FAL fan, 3" exh. from turbo to exit, 255 walbro fuel pump with additional inline aftermarket pump run in series, 700cc injectors, MSD 6AL with HVC coil, Hondata S300, 46mm Tial wastegate, AEM fuel rail and regulator, 50 mm BOV, new stock cams, AEM cam gears, Blitz SBC electronic boost controller package, P28 computer, Tilton dual disc clutch and lightened flywheel, Pro Drive axles, etc. (92 CX hatch)
#18
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Re: (nikolai.)
Over 300 at 10 lbs. and 435 @ 16 lbs. on a Dynojet, 448 @ 16 lbs on Mustang dyno. Gets a little loose through 3rd gear with BFG drag radials at that power level. I'm dialing in the electronic boost controller to limit boost in 1st and 2nd gears. (it can be set according to speed/mph)
#19
yes hondas are looked down upon for using fmu's because there are sooooo many easily available and affordable better options. hondata, crome, ubderdata are all better choices, that can tune fuel and ignition. 8psi will be no problem for any of those.
as far as the kit goes, dont get anything that says ssautochrome or xspower. and make sure the applicable kit works with a civic. many only work with a prelude. stan at http://www.fast-turbo.com can get u the appropriate oil lines for your setup. walbro 255 would be a better choice for your setup. u might need injectors as well rc 440's would be good.
as far as the kit goes, dont get anything that says ssautochrome or xspower. and make sure the applicable kit works with a civic. many only work with a prelude. stan at http://www.fast-turbo.com can get u the appropriate oil lines for your setup. walbro 255 would be a better choice for your setup. u might need injectors as well rc 440's would be good.
#20
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uh oh, here goes the ssautochrome war, honestly I have read the MANY various opinions of different people who use both kits. I must say that the price looks like it would be worth trying. It looks like the main thing that people fight about on here when it comes to ssautochrome are the manifolds themselves. I see people selling H22 turbo kits on here around the $2,000 price range used. Then I look at the ssautochrome kit NEW for $850 minus the intercooler piping. The turbo looks to a be a bit small but I am not sure.
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