MrdVVb

Hey, Pros, I have a question about ls vtec turbo. I'm planning doing on a b16a2/b18b1, with ARP rod bolts, head studs, ACL bearings, Supertech Blockguard, RC 440CC injector, AEM fuel rail, walbro 255, hondata S300.
So like 57 trim turbo, how much PSI will it hold if i put turbo on it? and may be some1 can give some numbers on HP? any sugguestion plz. Appreciated all respons, ty.

civickiller

no blockguard needed

gsr/b18b1('96) stock bottom end, ge headstuds, b16 cams, itr im, rc 1000cc.
266whp 8 psi(ebay turbo) 8700 still making power

this was on a tired old ls bottom end, would probably make more on a healthy bottom end. i would push 300whp safely

MrdVVb

Ty for information. I really want to know as my setup, how much PSI does bottom hold? How much RPM can I revving to? Just see a guy belowed his B18b1 on dyno with 14PSI( his engine around 250k KM, mines around 120K KM), this is my 1st time put turbo on engine, just don't wanna below mine too :p

kyden

psi is irrelevant.

phaphon

Psi won't matter as much as whp you should set a goal to what who you want . Then aim for that. The tuner should know how high you should rev . With that stock valve train you should only rev to 8k . When putting I. Arp rod bolts you will need to machine the big end of the rods and minest well get new rings when your pistons are out

MrdVVb

thx very much, my goal is not really high number boost, just need like 280-300whp for daily drive, and have fun sometimes.
would it be able to reach the number of what i put on engine??


@Kyden. psi is irrelevant,but it could blow you engine if you put too much. I wanna keep stock internal...

kyden

again, it is still irrelevant. it could take 30psi to make it to 300whp and still be fine.

nealnanoHX

Ok true on the PSI means nothing its how much WHP the motor can handle. Assuming your motor is healthy and strong 300-320WHP is pretty safe on a stock B series. It will take however much PSI to make 300whp as the motor needs to make it. But normally 10-13psi gets a LS Vtec to 300whp.
However it is 100% false that you need to machine out the rods for ARP rods bolts. I have them in my LS Vtec and all you do is tap out the old rod bolt and put in the new one and torque to spec. No need to pull out the pistons just drop the oil pan.

phaphon

All the times I built a lsv b20v which is about four times the cranks were hard to turn. It was all Cuase the rods went out of round with the rod bolts

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Kyden is stating that PSI specifically is not the most important thing when it comes to turbochargers that actually "hurts" engines. Its the cylinder pressures based upon the turbocharger's converted airflow rate used. In other words. A very tiny inefficient turbocharger @20psi is going to maybe create about 20lbs/min of air, while a larger turbo @20psi may make 45lbs/min of airflow. Both are at the same pressure, but the larger one could be very dangerous if not tuned properly because the airflow rate is higher, creating higher cylinder pressures that could damage the engine. That's why he's saying PSI is irrelevant.

The question you should be asking is "how much power can the stock bottom end take?". That question is easier to answer, which is about 350-375whp, provided that the engine is healthy, and is in great mechanical condition. However, there is a caveat; If this engine is not that mechanically healthy, and is not tuned properly, you could have any number of issues, including a blown engine, even if you thorw 1-2psi of boost pressure from a 57trim on the car.

It sounds like this is your only mode of transportation (I could be wrong here.. just how it "seems" based on your testimony), so you want to make sure that this is done correctly the first time and not to cut corners. The T3/T04E 57 trim from Garrett is a good way to start off, as it makes about 51lbs/min of airflow and needs a relatively low amount of boost pressure to be effective to about 300whp (anywhere from 9-12 depending upon the engine). This lower pressure is used because of the efficiency of the B16A cylinder head you're using. With the correct quality and combination of parts, you could create a very fun, potent machine. But be prepared to open up the wallet a bit and expand your understanding of how turbochargers exactly work.

I'm begging ya, please please PLEASE! read the FAQs at the top of the forum. they answer soooo many questions that you're going to have on this thread. Spend an hour or two there, even if you think you don't need to.. I think you'll be wonderfully surprised.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Word.....Just make sure you get a brand name turbo, like garrett, precision or turbonetics, all the turbos on ebay that are super cheap, like $300 are chineese knock off's and suck a fatty. A good turbo will run you right around $600 new.

If your going to take any part of the motor apart why not give it the treatment it deserves? Pull the oil pan and head, pop out the rods/pistons. replace the piston rings and rod bearings with stockers. Install arp rod bolts. put the head back on with new oem t-belt, head gasket, water pump and some arp head studs. Now your motor is set to go for relativly cheap.

You should worry about what clutch you have as well, 300+ whp will chew up a worn or stock style clutch really fast, you should have something made to hold the power.

Different opinions about what whp number is safe on a stock internal motor. You could press it to 350+ whp, but it won't last very long, the standard safe whp on a healthy stock bottom end with arp's is about 300 whp, if you want it to last for a while. This is all very dependant on a good professional tune as well though, without a pro tune, forget about making good power or having reliability, period.

Psi is irrelevant as stated above, whp is what matters, on a set up like that with a 57 trim you should be able to make 300 whp on about 10-13 psi with a good tune.

Happy boosting!

nealnanoHX

I have never had that problem ever when using ARP rod bolts. They are made to be a direct drop in replacement for the motor they are specified for. Sound more like you may have been over torquing them. Torque to Honda's rod bolt spec.
If you are going to go that far with it then you might as well be upgrading the rods and pistons or at the least the pistons. If compression is good and the motor is strong then you are wasting time and money pulling the pistons to replace the rings. Plus you must re-hone the cylinder walls any time you put in new rings so that have a fresh wall surface to seat against. Just saying from experience building engines.
A 50 trim .63 AR will get the 300whp with a little room for more and will have a little better response but not by much compared to a 57 trim.

phaphon

[QUOTE=nealnanoHX;47096517]I have never had that problem ever when using ARP rod bolts. They are made to be a direct drop in replacement for the motor they are specified for. Sound more like you may have been over torquing them. Torque to Honda's rod bolt spec.


Well I'm just saying and giving him a heads up I'm sure its worth atleast checking for out of roundness and I torque them to what Arp spec is I don't see why you would torque to honda specs Cuase I'm sure you wouldnt use Honda specs on arp headstuds

nealnanoHX

We are not talking about head studs here but rod bolts. The ARP rod bolts are not better because you can torque them higher, if you look there is not spec given with them in the packaging. However with head bolts and studs there is detailed instructions and specs. ARP rod bolt are stronger than the stock ones that is what makes them better. Have you ever seen a stock rod bolt fail? I have the head pops off them or they stretch and break. ARP rod bolts will not do this. If you increase the torque on a rod bolt then you are smashing the rod cap closer to the crack journals and crashing the bearings, making them out of round and will cause a spun bearing or at the least as you said a motor that is hard to turn. That will wear bearings out prematurely. I think I only torqued mine to 3-5 lbft more that stock spec just for good measure.
BTW stock rod bolt tq spec is 15lbft then 23lbft

phaphon

i know we are not talking about headstuds. i was just using it as an example.my rod bolts came with instructions,also read this it will also till you to resize it so will other people old threads.and you will also find that people do get instructions with there rod bolts

nealnanoHX

Well my ARP rod bolts have never came with instructions just in a package and the first time I used them I called ARP to ask about install and torque. They said they go right in, they will pull themselves in as you tighten them down and you can go a little over stock spec 26lbft is was they told me. If you are planning to run B16 or GSR rod bolts in LS rods them yes they need to machined out because B16 and GSR used a larger rod bolt.

phaphon

well idk them since i do know people who didnt machine their rods. they said it work'd great for them. then again i know people who was in the same boat as i was.when i used the arp rod bolts i used a ls rod bolt and torque them to 25ftlbs so i could have not over torqued it

MrdVVb

thx all, u guys awesome, i so appreciate it.

and i will take SHODAN's sugguestion to spend time to read FAQ,

lots work for safety running the engine, i need to keep learning

nealnanoHX

That is strange. 25lbft is what I put mine to 25-26lbft.


No there is not a lot involved. Just get good quality parts, ID 1000cc injectors (you tuner will love you), 255lph fuel pump, ARP head studs and rod bolts and dyno tuning by a good tuner. 300whp on a stock LS Vtec all day long. If you want more then forged rods and pistons are a must and should be good for around 400 on a good tune.