toolowsol

Ok, first things first, I have my fuel management up and running now, not when i turbo, but running now Uberdata (withdatalogging), DSM 450cc injectors, Plx M300 wideband, autometer boost/vac gauge, and walbro 255 intank. I think that is more than enough for fuel and tuning.

Next, the turbo stuff. I was kind of cheap here, because, well i blew all my money on the fuel management LOL..

Cheap ebay turbo "kit" (Brand New T3/T04E Turbo made with Turbonetics components with a custom compressor housing .50 A/R Compressor and .63 A/R Exhaust , Tial style bov and wastegate , custom charge pipes, small intercooler, all the gaskets and fittings) Only real downside to the kit is the manifold and downpipe, they are the shitty ones like ssautochrome. For oil lines I got cheapturbolines.com set.

My questions: The manifold, will it hold together for a few months? I know it will crack and fall apart eventually, but how long do you think it will hold? I plan on going with a better quality manifold shortly, but i would like this one to last until i get the better one in and installed. Next, downpipe, I'm not impressed with the crappy one that is included, how much power is lost in a subpar 2.5" downpipe? Hopefully this will get replaced when i get my new manifold, but i don't know how much extra cash i'll have laying around And last, is there anything i've overlooked here? Suggestions, tips??

beepy

Why will the manifold break and fall apart?

I have seen some bad manifolds come out of SSAC, but nothing that some bracing won't fix.

BROOD

It isn't rocket science were talking about....my suggestion is bolt up what you have and run it. I would be more concerned with getting the managment tuned well first.
After you get that in line you may have the money saved up to spend on a new manifold and downpipe to replace the ones you have now.

Plus it is kind of difficult for anyone to guess how long it will hold up and how well they will work without any pics at least.

......curious why the with the Tial parts? do you have a Tial WG and BOV or are they knockoffs?

toolowsol

I just assumed it was a POS manifold and would crack right away, Where is the proper place to add bracing? I would rather build up this mani than buy a new one, if possable.

BROOD

I can understand that
get some pics of what you are working with, that will help out some.

toolowsol

here she is in all her glory

toolowsol

One more thing i forgot to add, I have the opportunity to pick up a maxrev mani for $250, anyone think i should just get that and sell the ssautoshit

beepy

I did a lot of research on user feedback from the SSAC manifolds before I decided to buy one.

80% of people didn't like them because the wastegate flange was angled upward and it creates boost creep issues. Probably 50% of people had problems with the metal near the inlet flange cracking, or didn't have problems but complained that they were made of 12-gauge steel instead of something thicker.

But from those people that I talked to that replaced the wastegate flange and reinforced the inlet flange, most had no problems. Also if you look at SSAC's newest manifolds you will see that they are trying to correct the issues, by adding steel bars from the head flange to the inlet flange, and adding extra reinforcements from the inlet flange to the collector.

And hey, if you aren't going to use that blockoff plate, can you send it to me? I am using an internal wastegate.

toolowsol

Thanks for the info, maybe I will try to work with this mani, if it can hold me over until i start working again around winter break, I'll be a very happy camper.

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iamgsrswapandslow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't brace the manifold....brace the turbo

that's where most ppl screw up. if you brace the turbo to the point where you could remove the mani from the engine...and the turbo stay stationary, you're on the right track</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ so correct it hurts.

also I don't think that DP is 2.5" it looks like 2" to me.

You can get a 2.5" mandrel bent J from summit for about $20 shipped. it should match up with that cat flange and the 5 bolt flange you have and make a MUCH better flowing DP for the same amount of work/$.

ForcedEk9

I'm still waiting to find out what's up w/ the hands down on Tial. My **** works great, I love Tial products.

beepy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't brace the manifold....brace the turbo
that's where most ppl screw up. if you brace the turbo to the point where you could remove the mani from the engine...and the turbo stay stationary, you're on the right track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. Precisely why I wonder why SSAC gets a bad name. A T3/4 turbo is a ***-ton of weight to be hanging from something that can heat up to 1200°. Can you say creep failure?

Someone should mass-produce brackets for such a purpose. I welded a bracket to the downpipe that bolts to a pair of tranny bolts. (Similar to how it was set-up stock), so at least it prevents torsional strain on that inlet flange.

toolowsol

supporting the turbo does make a lot more sense, but the turbo doesn't exactly have a lot of place to bolt supports to Did you guys just weld supports to the turbo housing itself? I don't know if i want to do that... Or is there something i've over looking here? Pics would be awesome if you guys have closeups of your turbo bracing