Gsr head (shaved .003)
Cometic head gasket
Skunk2 pro intake
Flat face vales
ITR cams
70mm throttle body
1000cc injectors (e85 or c16)
b18c1 block
Nippon 81.5mm PR3 pistons
golden eagle block guard
manley gsr rods
oem crank
DNA motoring/Twisted motion 50 trim turbo (balanced)
Emusa wastegate & manifold
ebay BOV, Intercooler, piping


MY power goal is 350whp-400whp. car weighs about 1800lbs.
M&H 23/13x8 slicks.


My car made 189whp 124wtq (1/4 time 13.1 @105mph street tires) with stock b18c1 block and head described above and I decided to go boost. I know most important part is the tune, my question is do you guys think I can get 350whp out of this setup? How much PSI?

 

Nobody will really know unless they have extensive experience with that knock-off turbo. There aren't compressor maps for them since they are so expensive to make. So keep turning up the boost until you hit your goal or you stop making power and report back LOL!

OR if you really need to know beforehand, buy a quality turbo with research, documentation, and actual engineering behind it.

 

I plan to only run about 10psi, my guess is ill make near 300whp. just want to know how many have experience with high comp/turbo setups and results

 

A lot of us have run high CR with boost. It's the right way to do things in the 21st century. You'll end up with the same powerband in boost, but a much better powerband out of boost, which will give you better lap times, and better acceleration out of turns and off the line.

 

His CR is irrelevant, the op asked no questions about that and seriously misnamed his thread.
I dunno man, even among **** companies there are still different levels of stench if you know'm sayin'. DNAs turbos are probably pretty bad by even eBay standards, I would expect it to max out around 300, maybe a bit more.
But then the high psi kills the thrust bearing...seriously if you're going to build the engine at least get a legit turbo since it's the most important part for making power. I had a like new 50trim garret offered to me for 300 man.. That's barley more than an eBay turbo and way higher quality, think about it.

 

Geis, I see where you're coming from, but I was more responding to his second post. "just want to know how many have experience with high comp/turbo setups and results".

 

My bad lol :p

 

It's all good man, this one is kind of all over the place.

 

While we're at it, get out of this "only run XX psi" mentality. Run the boost level that fits your power goal...its that simple.

 

Pretty sure I've seen mac say that higher psi kills the eBay turbos super quick though...this is one instance in which I would limit psi

 

That... or not run one at all, but you're right. It's not the PSI, really, but the associated shaft speed that accompanies it. Keep the shaft speed low, for healthier thrust loads, and it will survive longer... However long "longer" really is, I can't say..

 

This thread has nothing to do with high compression. Renamed title.

 

Yeah, but it does have eBay turbos!!!

 

Ironically that was a stock SR T25 running a pressure level beyond "safe" that got beat on a lot. Typical fuckboy drift car bullshit. "I'm going to run higher pressures because it sounds cooler and gets me more parking lot cred. LOL at everyone running 14psi, pussies."

Apparently the latest batch of high school retards wanting to drift are idiots. Let me spray paint my s13 a few different colors, put an SR in it with eBay suspension, drift it till it breaks, then charge a 7k drift tax because it's a "real" drift car.

 

At least it's better than stance kiddies, wantboost.

 

There's nothing wrong with stance done right. It's the people running -9809766 degrees of camber that drive me nuts.

My accord is stanced and less than inch off the ground but I only run around -2.3 degrees of camber. That's on a 15x8 0 offset wheel too. I might raise it back up one day and throw meaty rubber on it but for now it's just a toy.