<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I can't believe you look at this stuff at work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My boss can't believe it either

 

Haha, I too am at work...gotta have that word doc or excel doc you can pop up on the screen real quick if the boss walks by!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha, I too am at work...gotta have that word doc or excel doc you can pop up on the screen real quick if the boss walks by!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Back on topic guys.

 

Well, I am just going to re-state what everyone else said. I just did a compression check on my b16 yesterday, and with p30 pistons and a gsr head (around 11.0-11.2 compression) I got 270 270 260 270. So again, your numbers seem outrageous for a 9.5 compression piston.

 

Well I double checked the gauge again today on my Z6 beater (130k). Put out an average of 190 across. Then I compared it against a snap-on gauge, both read the same.

Also. We performed the test on ladysman's engine 1 hour after driving. Test was done at WOT (as per Honda specifications).

I would not have believed the numbers if I didn't trust my equipment. This gauge was also used to check ladysman's previous engine on 3 occasions (2 times with a snap-on tester for comparisons).

 

I tested my b18c1 yesterday and got 197~200 in all 4....
Is that low?

 

Brad - I came across your thread. I had 270 psi when I was around 11:1 with my H22 (head shaved .020, Crower cams, etc). The best real way to know would be to take your motor apart again and measure everything. The easy way would be to take a container thats bigger than one cylinder and you can measure from (like a graduated cylinder), put a hose on the bottom, thread that hose into the spark plug hole, make sure the cylinder is at TDC, pour gas in it until its up the hose and fills most of the container, write down that amount, turn the engine so it is at the bottom of its stroke, write down the new measurement. Then you know the exact volume of your cylinder and combustion chamber. Ghetto, but it might work if you can get something to measure it accurately. They might make something that does this and I just haven't heard of it. Good luck with the build

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Demigod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I double checked the gauge again today on my Z6 beater (130k). Put out an average of 190 across. Then I compared it against a snap-on gauge, both read the same.

Also. We performed the test on ladysman's engine 1 hour after driving. Test was done at WOT (as per Honda specifications).

I would not have believed the numbers if I didn't trust my equipment. This gauge was also used to check ladysman's previous engine on 3 occasions (2 times with a snap-on tester for comparisons).</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy ****!

 

man that sounds really high! on my stock y7 i had:
1 - 148
2 - 150
3 - 153
4 - 153
my haynes says that 130 is minimum and 184 is maximum. so i guess mine is okay??

 

I'm with everyone else. 270ish has to be around 11:1. My stock 2000 Si read like 220 and they're what like 10:1 . . . ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranta18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brad - I came across your thread. I had 270 psi when I was around 11:1 with my H22 (head shaved .020, Crower cams, etc). The best real way to know would be to take your motor apart again and measure everything. The easy way would be to take a container thats bigger than one cylinder and you can measure from (like a graduated cylinder), put a hose on the bottom, thread that hose into the spark plug hole, make sure the cylinder is at TDC, pour gas in it until its up the hose and fills most of the container, write down that amount, turn the engine so it is at the bottom of its stroke, write down the new measurement. Then you know the exact volume of your cylinder and combustion chamber. Ghetto, but it might work if you can get something to measure it accurately. They might make something that does this and I just haven't heard of it. Good luck with the build </TD></TR></TABLE>

****, you know who I am now.
Taking this thing apart for no reason is out of the question at this point. If it is 11:1 or 11.5 or whatever, that is probably good to spool the massive turbo going on it.

Either way, it doesn't get driven everyday and 100 octane gas is close if I need it for safety. It will be well tuned so I am not that worried about it. When I get more miles on it, we will do it again to check and check with multiple gauges. I guess at this point, I would rather have high numbers than low.

 

Better high than low for sure I have a gauge and my buddy (the one with all the motors) has 4 gauges setup on a thing so you can test all 4 cylinders at once.

I don't remember you saying if you poured a little oil in the cylinder before you tested it? The oil can seal the rings more and tell you other things. If you did, that would explain the higher numbers. Just a thought.

Is 11:1 high for turbo? Or can you run around 20 psi on 100 octane without having to pull a ton of timing out? I don't know a lot about boosting. Have you talked to Larry to see what the deal is?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranta18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Better high than low for sure I have a gauge and my buddy (the one with all the motors) has 4 gauges setup on a thing so you can test all 4 cylinders at once.

I don't remember you saying if you poured a little oil in the cylinder before you tested it? The oil can seal the rings more and tell you other things. If you did, that would explain the higher numbers. Just a thought.

Is 11:1 high for turbo? Or can you run around 20 psi on 100 octane without having to pull a ton of timing out? I don't know a lot about boosting. Have you talked to Larry to see what the deal is?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, no oil down the cylinders. The car had ran then sat for about 40 minutes and we did it. The engine also only had 12 miles on it when the test ws taken.

11 is high but can be tuned around pretty easily. for 20 lbs, I wouldn't even use 100 octane on 9.8:1 which is what the motor is suppose to be. I would get 116 to be safe. I talked to him briefly but it was regarding other stuff as I didn't even know about this yet.

 

id say put regular non synthetic oil in there for an oil change cycle , then check again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id say put regular non synthetic oil in there for an oil change cycle , then check again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I already put in regular oil. I did that at about 150 miles. WE are going to do another test once the damn leaks are fixed.

 

On Jens 9.5:1 engine, we are seeing 225 all 4 cylinders, also dry(no oil).