Just a shot in the dark, but maybe the bottom of your block is warped causing the oil pan to not seat properly, but then again you said you bought the block new from the dealer.

 

I think that the block it self is tob big to warp, if it did it would crack. Just my thought on it.


Rob

 

this is sorta ot and i don't have any suggestions but i'm a newbie and figured that since we're in the topic of oil leaks, i figured i'd ask a question. are oil leaks common on fi b-series engines? i have a completely stock b16a3(delsol) and planning on running about 8-9 lbs daily and 12 on track days w/ a t3/t4 hybrid. i'm also gonna run an oil cooler. so, wouldn't this also cause a few problems w/ oil pressure? will encounter similar problems or is this on rebuilt/heavily modified engines?

 

Borrowing from the Ideal Gas Law:

PV = nRT

Pressure and Volume are inversely related, therefore when you have less volume you will have more pressure, all other things staying the same.

 

Sometimes I feel like I'm actually losing braincells when I visit this site.

 

if volume increase then pressure decrease then should I say add a oil cooler??

 

The whole problem here seems to be crankcase pressure buildup. i've never seen a factory turbo car that didn't have a pvc valve. its designed to keep excess pressure off your gaskets so you don't blow them out. its a one way valve so boost isn't going to get into your motor back thru it unless its bad. you need the pvc in the factory location and then take your valve cover vent and route it to the pipe in between your air filter and turbo intake, that way the pvc relieves pressure under normal driving, and when you boost the turbo will help relieve the pressure thru the valve cover vent. alot of drag cars that aren't turbo have ports in the exhaust that use the pressure to suck out the crankcase pressure, which actually helps the efficiency of the motor.

 

Hmm...sounds like a good idea.

Why not connect two catch cans? One that connects in between the PCV and the Intake manifold so when under VACUUM it'll filter out the oil vapors and still retain the PCV system to help relieve excess pressure.

And another on that connects in between the valve breather and the Turbo Inlet pipe. When you are in BOOST the other catch can "disables" (Because the PCV will close when it sees positive pressure in the manifold). The turbo will help suck the positive pressure from the crank case in boost so no more oil pan gasket blowing. And you don't have to worry about oil getting into the turbo with the catch can there.

Get what I'm saying?

 

The pcv valve is way too small to vent anything under high boost. Crank pressure is realized under high rpm and heavy load. It should go out of the block not the head if it properly ventilated. On stock mode, manifold is sucking the vapor out and put fresh air through the breather. After you add turbo system, the rule change a bit. Before there is no boost, now there is. Under boost, with pcv connect to the vaccuam source will yield little or no ventilation. It's enough pressure in there that it should exit out where the low pressure is. With a pcv intact even without vaccuam source may hinder venting. Look at the valve, you think anything larger then stock pressure will get out with a ball stuck in there? I went open loop with no pcv and a filter on the breather. Black box connect with a hose which run directly to a catchcan with another filter on top. Try blow in the valve see if you will turn blue.


[Modified by [Evo]Hybrid, 10:31 PM 8/29/2002]

 

The PCV valve only opens with vacuum in the manifold. I tried leaving it in with the catch can (with the exit being a mini filter) and it never opened. Had to take the PCV valve out to get the can to see any flow.

 

hmm...maybe drill and put like 3 more breather holes on the valve cover maybe that' will help? Release all the pressure.

 

haha, i would rather do that to the block so more vapor can be vented.