sixfourkiller

1995 integra SE with JRSC stock 5lb pulley

well i just install my JRSC and everything was running fine until i saw that my map sensor topic saying that my map sensor would never read boost if left on the TB so i relacated it but now when i go over 5k rpm my check engine light go off for my map sensor and dont know why it keep doing that? and i have two maps on still on the TB just to cover the hole and another map connected to a holes running to the manifold on the SC

rev-speed

r u runing a stock ecu with a fmu?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

sounds exactly like what hes doing, hes just pinging the map table out

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

to the OP, heres what your factory tables look like on your ecu



putting your map sensor to where you can read boost causes a problem because as you can see, the factory table only goes up to .3psi, unless you chip the ecu and run a different tune with boost tables on it, like crome, you cannot let the map sensor read boost. The FMU/pressure switch combination they give you is junk, i imagine you feel like i did when i first installed mine and your wondering why it doesnt seem like a big improvement.

sixfourkiller

yeah did doesnt feel that much different but i was wondering if u can kind of brief me on how to read chart that u post up and so i can understand a bit better cuz i do know a bit about car but barely getting into the whole tuning the ecu...



(my ecu is chip with a mugen setup so pretty sure it dont include map for boost.)

sixfourkiller

im not running an fmu and its not a stock ecu

Jaker

Your Mugen chipped ECU is all wrong for the boosted setup. If you keep driving it like this, you will blow your motor. Your ECU is not reading the boost, so there is not enough fuel for the supercharger, plus the Mugen chip has pretty aggressive ignition timing maps, which is also very very bad for a JRSC setup.

If you can figure out how to lock your bypass valve in the open position, you could at least keep driving the car (with no boost) for now until you get the engine management sorted out. When you do get proper engine management for boost, you should also get some larger injectors.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

ok well heres how it works, on the fuel setup that JR gives you to work in conjunction with an unmodified ecu. You have your FMU, and you have your pressure switch which is connected to a relay on the IAT. Your map is still in its factory location so it only reads vac, as it should. Now at this point, the car never knows its in boost, but what the JR fuel stuff does is, when you hit 1psi, the FMU begins to raise fuel pressure on a 5:1 ratio for every 1 pound of boost it see's. As the fuel pressure rises, this is turn makes the injectors "act" as if they are bigger, thus forcing more fuel into the engine. Its an extremely inaccurate way of adding fuel. In the mean time, when your pressure switch see's boost, it triggers the relay connected to the IAT sensor, which feeds the IAT the maximum voltage the sensor can read, this in turn tells the computer that the air charge is super hot, the factory ECU has timing retard tables for IAT temperature readings, as seen here...



you ping the sensor out, the computer retards your timing, thus making it safe to run boost, since your ecu doesnt know how to do it any other way.

JR rated these kits as a 55hp increase, thats complete and utter bullshit. I didnt feel that 55hp increase until i actually dumped all the JR stuff and went with a full on boost table tune through crome, the FMU drowns the engine in fuel, and the pressure switch retards your timing so much, you wind up loosing power.

To give you an idea of how it should be tuned, off the FMU and without the pressure switch...here is a fuel map and ignition map from my car running the same kit, as you can see under vac/psi, my car can read up to the maximum the factory MAP sensor will read.





So not only does my car read boost properly through the map sensor, it has a fuel table and ignition table designed to handle it on the ECU (chipped with crome, i wrote my own chip), it reads the proper IAT temps as well and makes adjustments according, and runs bigger injectors, using factory fuel pressure, without the need for running a sloppy rise rate FMU.

sixfourkiller

yeah that true well i also have a stock ecu, so u think i should just run with the stock ecu vs my megen tune ecu for the mean while... at least until i get my ecu tune for boost?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

all the mugen tune does is advance timing on the standard ecu map for a little extra umf

Jaker

Do not run ANY boost until you get the "boost" tune.

sixfourkiller

[QUOTE=Spawne32;44321471]ok well heres how it works, on the fuel setup that JR gives you to work in conjunction with an unmodified ecu. You have your FMU, and you have your pressure switch which is connected to a relay on the IAT. Your map is still in its factory location so it only reads vac, as it should. Now at this point, the car never knows its in boost, but what the JR fuel stuff does is, when you hit 1psi, the FMU begins to raise fuel pressure on a 5:1 ratio for every 1 pound of boost it see's. As the fuel pressure rises, this is turn makes the injectors "act" as if they are bigger, thus forcing more fuel into the engine. Its an extremely inaccurate way of adding fuel. In the mean time, when your pressure switch see's boost, it triggers the relay connected to the IAT sensor, which feeds the IAT the maximum voltage the sensor can read, this in turn tells the computer that the air charge is super hot, the factory ECU has timing retard tables for IAT temperature readings, as seen here...

thanks for the help but i dont have map sensor still in its factory location. i set up the map sensor can see boost that why im having the problem u help me earlier. cause when i had it in its factory location the check engine light never came on because like u said it never see boost so the ecu never saw a problem... but i knew i would run to lean this way cause i dont have that FMU that come with the kit because i bought the kit incomplete. With that been said i was thinking of putting an Apexi SAFC II to help with my fuel issue until at least i get tune ( cuz it would be a while before i tune it cuz im still going to add a fuel pump and bigger injector before i got tune it)... SO What your idea or thought on what i should do for the mean time?

also on your chart just to make sure im reading it right on your tune u have it tune until 11psi. also the number on the left side is the rpm number right? ( sorry if it obverse but just making sure)

also on the second chart is the timing adv/ret number or the air/fuel ratio number?

sixfourkiller

but how can u get it to run no boost at all if its a root type supercharger... and i cant figure out what bypass valve that ur talking about???

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

second chart is ignition timing, and yes rpm/boost, and it goes up to 11psi, thats the minimum # of boost columns you can add even though you dont really use it, the factory map sensor is a 1.7bar map sensor, and that is the most boost the map can ever read at any given time without needing to upgrade.

I would recommend exactly what i did in my setup, i bought a cheap set of used injectors on the marketplace, RC310's in this case (factory is 240cc, i went with 310cc) and i bought a moates burn chip burner, and stole a basemap from a turbo civic with a b18b1 running 7psi, and just modified it slightly using an air/fuel ratio gauge and a little know how. Rewrote the chip, installed it in the ecu, and called it a night. Nothing else was required. Granted thats not PERFECT but until i have the 400 bucks for ectune and a live tuner and a dyno tune, it gets me by just fine.

Worst case scenario i could burn you a new chip if you get a set of injectors and send it to you to swap into your ecu, it wont be a perfect tune, but if i know what you have on your car i could get it relatively close.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

was this kit installed already or did you install it yourself?



the black piece sticking out of the back of where the intake manifold is that has a vac line that hooks up, is part of the bypass valve assembly, when the engine is creating vacuum, the valve is open, rerouting boost pressure, when you gun it, positive pressure closes the valve, and you get full boost pressure.

sixfourkiller

yeah that would sound great for the mean time but how much would i owe u for the chip and everything. cuz would be better then what i have right now.and do u want me to PM u and tell u everything that i done to my car? and i install the supercharger myself at my friends garage.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

shoot me a pm of what you have on the car and ill see what i can do

sixfourkiller

if i had to run with boost. would it be better if i ran with a stock ecu then my mugen setup? also i have an apexi SAFC that i havent install yet

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

you dont want to run the apexi SAFC along with a chip tune

Jaker

No matter what you do, the JRSC will not run properly with either of your choices. The only setup that will run without the risk of blowing up your motor, short of a proper tune with larger injectors is the original JRSC fueling setup with the rising rate fuel pressure regulator and the intake air temp sensor hack.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

1. Sell the safc.
2. Find a local honda/acura dyno tuner with EXPERIENCE and have the car properly tuned using your socketed/chipped ecu on hondata, neptune, ectune, crome etc.

rev-speed

wow you guys held his hand and walk him through the mall lol.......
-lucky guy so many others get flame........

sixfourkiller

LOL u just have to ask the right question.. and let the reader know what u are talking about...