001020

Im in the 1st steps of my homemade turbo set up { which is to know where stuff goes}

1. where should I tap the oil pan on my D16Z6 when putting the oil feed line? I heard something about above the oild level but Im not sure what was meant....

2. where on the block is the oil return line going {picture please}

3. what is to be used to seal the flanges { or any thing that has been taped} after they have been istalled. I saw some guy come to work with a turbo eclipse and he had some red stuff at all the places that were tapped.

99blusi

your feed line comes off the block...not the return line

Your return line goes to the oil pan...not the feed line.

that's the first tip to success...

Vtec92Civic

that red stuff you are talking about is "High Temp Silicone Sealant" you can buy that at any automotive store for about $3-$4 for a tube of it.

Your oil feed line goes on the back of the block where your oil pressure sender is which is usually to the left and up just a few inches from your Oil Filter. It has a little black rubber cap over it kinda looking like a hershey kiss.

Your oil return you need to drill a hole in your oil pan some place in the center of the oil pan, but at the highest point that you can go so that oil can constantly flow into the oil pan when leaving the turbo

Any other questions feel free to PM me




The blue thing is the oil pressure sender, the steel braided line that you see is going into the top of the turbo (oil feed) you need to get a T so that you can plug everything into the block like that, and those can be found at places like Lowes, Home Depot etc . . . .

Hope that helps

dfoxengr

to seal thread you use teflon tape or thread sealant.

GimpyAccord

I dont even wanna hear it about my DP its purposly a piece of **** to help with my creep issue(s). You want the oil return to be high in the pan as possible, and aligned with the drain on the turbo too. Whatever you do, make sure the turbo drain is HIGHER than the input on the oil pan, or prepair to fumigate your neighborhood.




in case you're wondering: JB Weld is the ****, and the thing on the bottom right is oil temp sender.

dfoxengr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GimpyAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont even wanna hear it about my DP its purposly a piece of **** to help with my creep issue(s). You want the oil return to be high in the pan as possible, and aligned with the drain on the turbo too. Whatever you do, make sure the turbo drain is HIGHER than the input on the oil pan, or prepair to fumigate your neighborhood.




in case you're wondering: JB Weld is the ****, and the thing on the bottom right is oil temp sender.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is the ugliest turbo setup i have ever seen, with those lines too, lol

GimpyAccord

You obviously don't hang around HomeMadeturbo much, my car is one of the better looking HMT's IMO

Burke

you dont need anything like gaskets for the turbo/mani, wg/mani, dumptube/wg, or downpipe/turbo. just tighten them down good and wait till they heat and expand, and wahlaa you have a nice seal!

GimpyAccord

Actually I had some mad leaking around my Downpipe and dumptube flanges w/no gaskets. So what *I* did was got some 1/16 sheet of aluminum, traced out the gasket and made them. They work GREAT and are totally reusable the soft aluminum makes a great seal. Better than forking out money for them everytime you pop one off.

B18EG6

Some people use gaskets between the oil return flange, and the cartridge of the turbo. If you dont have one of these, you can make one real easily like the method above or go get 'gasket maker'... it comes in sheets and can be used for various applications.

Burke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GimpyAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually I had some mad leaking around my Downpipe and dumptube flanges w/no gaskets. So what *I* did was got some 1/16 sheet of aluminum, traced out the gasket and made them. They work GREAT and are totally reusable the soft aluminum makes a great seal. Better than forking out money for them everytime you pop one off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no **** - maybe you should get someone not so gimpy to tighten you bolts
that al idea is real good, i may try that if i run into these problems

DENCIO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GimpyAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont even wanna hear it about my DP its purposly a piece of **** to help with my creep issue(s). You want the oil return to be high in the pan as possible, and aligned with the drain on the turbo too. Whatever you do, make sure the turbo drain is HIGHER than the input on the oil pan, or prepair to fumigate your neighborhood.




in case you're wondering: JB Weld is the ****, and the thing on the bottom right is oil temp sender.</TD></TR></TABLE>
jb weld to the max!!!!

ringgold

What size are those fitting that go into the back of the block? Im sure someone probably already makes a kit with the oil feed lines and those fitting that you need to put in the block.

The reason for this question is one of my neighbors wants me to turbo his car and Im not the specialist on turbocharged Hondas.

Jays91DXhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GimpyAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont even wanna hear it about my DP its purposly a piece of **** to help with my creep issue(s). You want the oil return to be high in the pan as possible, and aligned with the drain on the turbo too. Whatever you do, make sure the turbo drain is HIGHER than the input on the oil pan, or prepair to fumigate your neighborhood.




in case you're wondering: JB Weld is the ****, and the thing on the bottom right is oil temp sender.</TD></TR></TABLE>


IMHO, that oil drain line is TOO LOW in the pan, It's got to be in oil there which is not good. You want it higher then that so that it can actually drain. If you are lower then the oil level in the pan...it won't drain properly.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ringgold &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> one of my neighbors wants me to turbo his car and Im not the specialist on turbocharged Hondas. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Then you have to ask yourself, should you really be doing it?

The block is threaded 1/8" BSPT...you'll need to get a male 1/8" BSPT to female 1/8" NPT adapter, then a 1/8" male NPT to -AN adapter for the feed line.

001020

do I have to use 2 O2 sensors or just the one that is in the HF manifold

GimpyAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jays91DXhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


IMHO, that oil drain line is TOO LOW in the pan, It's got to be in oil there which is not good. You want it higher then that so that it can actually drain. If you are lower then the oil level in the pan...it won't drain properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Uhh, its at the pan flange... it doesnt go any higher without interfering the block. Obviously the picture isnt illustrating that... irrguardless I have no drain/smoke issues

If you're reffering to the LOWER item in the pan, thats the oil temp sender!!

tgreaves

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 001020 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> do I have to use 2 O2 sensors or just the one that is in the HF manifold
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You might want to read up on turbo setups a little more.. Not trying to be a dick or anything but asking a question like that means you dont know much about EFI..