Hi to everybody,

I need some help guys. This is my first turbo car and Im going to try to explain everything. My integra is t3/t4 turbocharged with a b20z engine. Ok so last week I got the car tuned with crome with my chipped p28 ECU. car was running fine. This week i wasnt beating on it or nothing I was actually pulling out normally and the car kind of bogged and then surged like a TPS problem then about 5 seconds later the CEL popped on. I got up the street and cut the car off. When I first cranked it back on it immediately died. The second time I cranked it I gave it a few revs then the rpms dropped down very low to about 200 to 300, if i had to guess then the CEL pops back on. I got it to the shop and it popped up map sensor and mass air flow and O2 i believe. I changed out the map sensor but it didnt fix the problem at all. it still pulls the same codes. and it seems like they dont want to clear at all. We disconnected the battery and pulled the fuses trying to see if it was a fluke. problem is still there. So the next step we were thinking is to replace my jumper harness because the one i currently have apparently has a high failure rate. (i didnt know this of course). Also in the morning we are going to start with checking wire d-3...d plug wire 3 to see if i lost contact. According to the shop the sensors have continuity and are reading correct voltage. This car has really been a small dream come true so I just want to get it back running right so I can enjoy my investment. Any pointers would be quite helpful. maybe someone has already been through this issue oh yeah what i did notice is that it seems to run just fine after first gear but lets say if you're just pulling out and in first it will kind of skip a little and makes you just want to get out of first and into 2nd. (idk if that helps)

 

our cars dont use a mass flow sensor, what ems are you on? what map sensor was it tuned on? was the replacement map the same?

you cant tune on a 3 bar map and then put a stock one on ETC. you would need to replace it with the same size are at least make adjustments in the EMS for the new sensor

Also you may want to check wiring between the sensor and the ECU "According to the shop the sensors have continuity and are reading correct voltage" isnt very convincing to me, as far as what test were done

edit: you should be able to pull codes yourself u dont need a shop for that

 

Hey thanks for replying. Ems??? Im not sure what that is. Well I'm only running 9lbs and it was tuned on the stock map sensor. I bought the new map sensor from o'reillys. Im going up there myself in the morning to check things out. And the only reason i took it back by the shop is that the owner has become like a dad to me so i can use tools. But when i use the scan tool it wont communicate with it. I got my engine out of a 01 honda crv and when i used that as my application it pulled those codes. So that could be a false reading. But ill know more when i start checking wiring in the morning. Also should i install a "missing link" or is that only for the AFC hack method?

 

EMS = engine management system

You said your using crome sorry didnt see that your post is kinda hard to read, no spacing or paragraphs.

missing link is used to trick the OEM map sensor so it wont see "too much" boost but is not recomended as you want the ecu to see the correct level of boost.

OEM map has a limit of around 10 PSI (i dont know the number off hand) I personally use a 3 bar map which can see around 28 PSI you always want a map that can see more boost then you plan to run. if it goes over that you will get a CEL

 

So it could just be a matter of upgrading to a 3 bar? Which brand do you recommend? And will i need to be tuned again?

 

you could probally go with a 2 bar even, do you know how much boost you plan to make? what turbo are you on? is it a ebay turbo?

I chose my map specifically for my purpose, I wanted the ability to run up to 25 PSI. Im currently only at 17 but its nice to have the option of upping the boost.

Im on an omni map, seems to be a standard goto map sensor It was cheaper then the hondata version so I just went with it

 

It's not a matter of how much boost you want to have read, it's what the management is calibrated to read.

To hell with Hondata or Omnigarbage.. Go back to the beginning. GM 3 Bar, and never look back. It may be ugly, may need to be placed somewhere other than the OEM point, but it works, won't break, and won't EVER give false signals. Done and DONE..

 

then why do they sell 2 bar 3 bar 4 bar etc.?

Im fine with my omni if it causes issues perhaps I will consider your advice WHEN I NEED a new one.

However you simply cant deny the thousands of honda users that have not had a problem with them

 

Because some manufactured cars weren't calibrated for 3Bar, only 2bar or 1bar. You have to remember, that these sensors, in many cases were on MAF-Based Naturally aspirated cars. Not turbo units. But that's how the engineers designed the sensors.

The different BAR sensors have different voltages that the computer needs to make sure it can read.

3BAR, means 1Bar of atmosphere, and 2Bars of positive pressure
2BAR means 1Bar of atmosphere , and 1Bar of positive pressure

Etc.

 

Yes I understand this hence my original statement of "I chose my map (sensor) specifically for my purpose, I wanted the ability to run up to 25 PSI"

regardless of "what the management is calibrated to read"

 

But the management may not be able to switch or calibrate one sensor vs another. That is the reason for my statement. Look at the reason behind the statement. SOME can change voltage readings, others cannot. So, if one can't, and you're using a 2BAR sensor on something that only intended for a 3BAR to be there, you could experience problems.

See my point now?

 

yup