Unphzd

I am running on a JDM d15b fresh from hmotors and now i am planning to turbo it in the summer! My budget would be 2000 dollars. Some people are suggesting to just buy a turbo kit from greddy but i would rather build my own and save money in the process. Dont know much about turbos just started researching but where would be some good websites to buy parts from. Also maybe someone could recommend a setup they have liked before.
Looking for
Reliable turbo
Good wastegate
HKS hardlines
Good manifold
Piping? ebay? not sure
Injectors

Im planning to get it tuned by Speedfactory or intec
Thanks for the help in advance

98civdx

Have you talked to speedfactory about buying a kit from them? Ricky makes some really nice manifolds.

Ebay is a really good place to buy things. Make sure you keep it brand name, and don't buy ebay brand.

Unphzd

To be honest the only brand name i know is...greddy.. LOL fail

98civdx

Give them a call, i belive they are still closed on Mondays.

It will still likely be a little bit out of your budget, but, you can trust what SF makes. And you can trust, the piping/manifold will fit correctly.

Are you ok with buying used parts?

98civdx

http://www.speedfactoryracing.net/st...ct=1650795---- Manifold is a little expensive, but is likely better then any crap you'll find on eBay.


Wastegates- These are Tial, there are cheaper brands out there.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R4...All-Categories

Tial BOV's.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=tia....c0.m270.l1313


These may be out of your budget when you figure a complete setup, but this will give you a little idea.

Unphzd

Yeah i was just looking at those Manifolds and my friend was saying those are good buy i shouldnt be spending more then 200 on a manifold. im planning to just do a 6-10 psi safe boost. Thanks for your help bro

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gostkit.html
Very high-quality stuff. Greg is an awesome guy to deal with as well.
Complete kit $1979.99

CDecker0218

check out Speed Factory / Spoolin Performance / Synapse Turbo. They all have good turbo kits that they offer!

303Turbos

I would use a 3525700-spec (cummins 3802347) h1c fitted with a 12cm turbine housing because those turbos can be had cheaply. The inducer on the compressor wheel is pretty puny, so it will spin up quickly and make enough boost, and the 12cm housing will get the thing going sooner than later.

The turbo will produce good torque for your goals and it is upgradable for when you want more boost: you can switch out the turbine housing first, and upgrade the compressor side after that. You can take that frame all the way to hx40 spec, or leave it alone as it is.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Ok im not sell you a kit but what you should do first is check the faq thread at the top and read threw all the topics in there since as you build this your probably going to ask all the questions in there.
And I would look into a 14b or 16g turbo. Holsets are huge and heavy. If its your first turbo I would piece it all together so you could learn about all the components that go into a kit and you'll know how to fix things as problems pop up in this perfect world. Good luck

Dynamic Performance Racing

If you're looking for injectors, we highly recommend using FIC. Here's their website and their wide range of injectors. Reasonably priced and we use them on our race cars as well as our customers cars.

http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/honda/

If you have any questions, PM us.

303Turbos

holsets are pretty big for sure, but the h1c specified is not too huge. If you went holset, you would trade a little boost response for upgradability, but if you went mitsu, you trade good boost response for the DSM footprint that you are stuck with. The 14b/16g turbos from the talons/eclipse run a one off flange that only works with other DSM flanged turbos, but they are a better match for a 1.5.

If someone made a td05h turbo with a t3 flange that was cheap, that would be the way.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Its not impossible to make a flange for a manifold. Or an adapter. And those turbos usually come off 2.0 liter engines. As the holsets come from like a 6.0 litre.
Whats the specs on that h1c inducer/exducer specs of the compressor wheel? How much cfm's does it flow?

303Turbos

yeah it's not impossible to do any of that, but these turbos come off 2.0 engines that make 186hp (14b) and 300ish hp (big 16g), and real mitsubishi turbos are becoming rare while copies are becoming more common. Plus, the td05h is not that tough of a turbo-their service life is relatively short because of the application, so used ones are only really worth $50-$100 because they need to be rebuilt.

http://www.turbointernational.com/pr...&turbotype=228

i'll have to find the flow/map, but by the numbers (trim) it looks like a very mild compressor wheel.

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

I still think this ^^ will be his easiest and most hassle free route.

303Turbos

forgot to add: the turbo is from a 4btaa 3.9 engine

303Turbos

seems expensive for what you get-does the turbo run a 360 thrust bearing?

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

I dont think its too expensive considering the quality of what you get. Its definatly not EMUSA stuff. Those kits are around $1,000 but have shitty intercooler piping and dont come with the Tial wastegate and blowoff valve. Those are components that I wouldnt want to over look. Wastegate failure is pretty common on "ebay" wgs. Plus the nice thing about this kit is that its a custom built kit so the intercooler piping wont have to be hacked up. Plus having a nice oil line kit is nice, especially with AN fittings. It could probably be done a little cheaper but I dont think the end result would be as nice.

303Turbos

Yeah, you're probably right, but for me it's all about the turbo. if the kit doesn't come with a performance spec turbo and comes with a diesel spec one, I would just get the cheapest setup I could find and replace parts as needed.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

This is really the better way to do this than to search high and low for some of these hard to integrate parts. If it were 1999, sure, but not for today's Honda aftermarket

You'd be surprised about how well the quality is for these things to justify the price. In addition, it includes all the smaller crap that one has to go to several other locations for; oil feed & return lines, fittings, flanges, return and inlet gaskets, and all the fit/finish needed to do a relatively good job of install, run and tune.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You of all people should know that for a setup like this really doesn't matter whether it is 270* or 360* cartridge. Yes, the 360* is more durable for abusive applications (especially if not using the old spring tensioner to hold in the thrust washer), but for 70% of those that use one of these turbochargers (especially for a d15), a 270* works just fine. Only when you're looking at the larger sized turbochargers, or those that are planned to be at higher boost pressures are you going to need 360* bearing system

303Turbos

well here is what I always see-people get el cheapo turbos and run them at 120% capacity all the time and they don't last. every turbo will wear out when you do this, but the cheapos wear faster because they have the 270 bearing.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's because they have cheapo 270* bearings from a crap ebay turbocharger. Not actual Garrett 270* bearings.