Civic-Kids

i have an civic ex (d16y8). i was thinking about just swapping in a gsr or si, but i think an ex turbo will get me a lilo more power?

some question i wanna know:

if i did a full rebuild, will it still be smog legal? (in CA)

here wat i plan:
YCP Pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL bearing
ARP Head Studs

i also wanna rebiuld the head, but i dont know which valve to use n to increase hp if possible.

what tranny to use?

it will be my dd for a while before i turbo it... n the turbo im going get is greddy

if it cant be smog legit, than i will just buy another d16y8 (1 reason y i decided to go ex turbo than just swapping in an si or gsr)


i will be building this in 3, 4 month, if ya have any other advice plz add on

mayfly

you can not legally turbo unless you have the carb stickers for it. greddy does make one and so does edlebrock.

i dont see any issue with it passing smog as a n/a build. it will run a little wierd with the stock ecu hooked up. so tuning could be a issue with it passing or not.

you can swap a gsr or si engine. you just need to get it to the ref station to get a bar sticker. also motor has to be legit and not stolen

mayfly

are you planning to use cast or forged pistons? i highly reccomend forged pistons for a turbo build

EG FTW

iTrader: (4)

for the swap you'll need all the necessary smog equip for the motor you plan on getting. make sure you have the correct ECU also. some places will let it slide depending on the county, but to be on the safe side just get the correct one.

im currently waiting on a call from the referee to see what i need for my 00' B16 swap into my EG. its OBD2 so we'll see what he has to say about that. hopefully if i can persuade them to let me dumb it down to OBD1 and just run it as a Del Sol B16.

Goodluck with your build and BAR

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I really feel for you cali people

Schister66

The engine build will depend on your goals. A stock D series will handle 220-240whp before the rods begin to bend...if you want more than that, obviously you're going to have to build it. There's no sense in rebuilding the head to "make more hp" because the engine can't handle it (in stock form) anyway. The most people do is buy a Zex 59300 cam for the head as it makes VTEC a bit more aggressive than stock. Also, i wouldnt get too ahead of yourself with the non-turbo parts because it tends to get expensive fast. It would be a waste to spend a fortune on an engine/head build and then skimp on a turbo setup

Research is always your friend: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/

Steps:
1. Determine your power goal
2. Budget
3. THEN we make a plan for parts, engine builds, etc...

Civic-Kids

yeah i plan to get a chipped ecu, just forgot to mention n i play to high boots it so i guess low compression piston. on the cast or forged pistons, i have no idea here the links i were planning to buy:

http://www.speedfactoryracing.net/st...roduct=1650817 (i guess this cast? if so i can get this other set:

http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...d16y8-118.html



good to know, but i might do a d16y8 turbo build.


:D



i want to go a lilo bit over 300, the budget im not sure right now, let just say 2k just to rebuild the longblock, it would be great if i can do it for cheapper

Schister66

If you're looking to build on the cheap, look into shotpeened LS rods or Eagle rods and Vitara pistons. Vitara builds can easily make 300whp and are dirty cheap. The problem is that unless you run FJT rods, your compression can be ridiculously low...to most people this isn't that big of a deal, but low compression will almost instantly fail ***/NOx emissions testing.

I'll reiterate: Determine a budget before you make your plans. If you spend all your money on the engine build and have nothing left for the turbo setup, it isn't going to work out. I realize this is a stepped approach, but without some over-arching plan, you're going to run into problems

Civic-Kids

i going spend like another 1500 for the turbo kit as long as it pass CA smog than im good... help me setup a build with the 2g build for the longblock. n post up the links to the item, cuz i will just buy it online... plan to do this in like 3, 4 month... i just want everything plan out until than.

Schister66

Its not that difficult, but as I see it, you have a few options:

-LS Rods and Vitara pistons
-Eagle rods and Vitara pistons
-FJT Rods and Vitara pistons
-Eagle Rods and CP/Wiseco/etc forged piston

The options all depend on what you're willing to spend, what you want from the car, and what your ultimate goal is. Every one of those setups can handle the 300-ish hp you're looking to make, but with differing characteristics and drawbacks.

Now, its time for you to do your part. Take this and begin figuring out which setup fits your goals and budget the best. As for the turbo setup, you will quickly realize that a proper setup costs far in excess of $1500...hell, my last turbo cost $1250 by itself. I would AGAIN reassess your budget and actually itemize parts and figure out prices for them. If you dont do this and you're on a fixed budget, you're probably going to run out of money somewhere or end up skimping on something

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^

Listen to this man

MalcolmV8

Just got done building a D16Y8 myself. Well it's an ever going project. I started out by building my own turbo system from scratch (no kit). I based mine off a Precision 5431 turbo (going off memory here but I believe that's correct) and I can tell you I spent more than double you $1500 planned turbo budget. In fact maybe even 3 times that amount. It all adds up.

You can cheap out on a few things from ebay such as intercooler and piping etc. The turbo itself is of high debate on this forum. Many advocates for ebay $100 items and many that say get a name brand. I believe you get what you pay for and got a name brand turbo.

Wastegate don't even waste your time on ebay. If it fails your engine blows up. Search the market section of this forum. I picked up lots of bits and pieces over time from guys.

BOV you can get away with an ebay unit for a while but they really don't work well. I purchased two ebay units and was swapping parts back and forth, springs etc. to try and get one to work correctly. They are junk. I had mine sucking in air at idle because vacuum was to strong for it and at higher boost it wouldn't function right etc. I finally broke down and spent the $300 on an HKS and it works flawlessly.

As for engine I ran it stock like you're doing while I collected parts and then last winter I turbo'd it with stock internals. I was tuning myself so ran it at only 2 lbs of boost till I figured out what I was doing. Once I got comfortable I started turning it up. I should have left it at 8 lbs in hindsight. Once I turned it up to 10 lbs I lifted the head gasket within 2 days. I should mention even though I call it my daily driver I drive it like I stole it most the time so your mileage will vary. I figured it's fun as hell and I have fun in it.

Anyhow at that point I pulled it apart and went with a 2618 forged piston. Requires more piston to wall clearance and has a slight "dieseling" noise for lack of better terms at idle. Especially when cold. Not a really big deal but something to note if you're picky about a nice quiet engine.
My combo now is 9.0:1 CP pistons with forged rods and head studs. So far running like a champ.
Remember to budget for things like a valve job on your head, new oil pump, water pump and all the other stuff you're going to replace when rebuilding the motor.

Not to mention transmission. Mine started having bad synco's in 2nd gear when I first got it but then again it had about 170k miles so to be expected. A rebuilt transmission with carbon fiber syncros and an M factory locker ran me $1500. Don't forget to budget for a clutch too. Running a comp here and very happy with it.

We have little to no emissions regulations here in KC so can't help you on that one. I could take my car to inspection with a 500 cubic inch big bock sticking out the hood and I'd be OK.

Schister66

North Dakota is the same way...except that we dont have any inspections. It may be cold up here, but you can do whatever the hell you want with your car.

MalcolmV8

Yeah the inspections here are a joke. Nothing more than a money collecting scheme.

Civic-Kids

ty for all the reply, i will think about it n do some more research. the most important part on a turbo kits is a GOOD turbo n wastegate? which brand to get? n can i use stock tranny or it cant handle the high hp?

Schister66

The stock tranny is fine for your power goals.

Turbo brands: Borg Warner, Garrett, Precision
Wastegate: Tial

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Fixed

MalcolmV8

Why'd you remove Precision?

Civic-Kids

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=TOKT

so this a good kit?

n wat ya think about this used greddy kit:

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/3396309729.html

MalcolmV8

Do some searches on this site and you'll find lots of reviews on the CX Racing kits and many of the other ebay kits. The general consensus is that they are very cheaply built and problematic. The turbo manifolds are made of a poor grade steel and they are very thin walled resulting in manifolds that crack and leak consistently. It seems like the turbos themselves are very hit or miss with many reports of failures within a week. I've seen everything from seals blowing out, burning oil, and extreme shaft play. There are some who say they've had good luck with the ebay kits too. Search, read all the threads (there's tons of them) and see what you think. It's a gamble.