thorton21

I know for more power with a d16 you have to do h-beam rods and notch the block. The question I have is how do you install the Pistons and rods? I didn't know if the rods would scrape the inside of the cylinder or not. I looked around for a while and couldn't find anything on installing them. Any links or information would be very helpful.

2kdrift

you need a piston-ring compressor to install the pistons... plenty of videos on you tube, so you didnt look very hard. but if you have to ask you should not be doing this yourself take it to a capable machine shop


there you go top hit on my first google search

TravisBiggie

the rod won't hurt the cylinder if you're gentle and don't bang it around, go slow, take your time, there is no rush.

the video above is a one size push in ring compressor, which are spendy and only one size. I rather use a clamp for that I can use for multiple bore sizes, which are practically clamps, you tightened it around the piston and rings to compress them. insert the rod into the cylinder (facing the correct way) (make the clamp flat on the deck by tapping around the edge with a rubber mallet) get the clamp as tight as possible, and hit it into the cylinder, some people whack it hard as hell, others will tap it in. I hit it in in about 3 tries. I don't like broken piston rings.

make sure you put some oil on the rings so it slides out of the compressor easier. GL

thorton21

You clearly didn't read my original post too well, I never said I didn't know how to do it. I asked if the rods would hurt anything going in the normal way because of the block having to be notched. And that video never came up in my search.

thorton21

And to TravisBiggie, thanks for the info and not being a dick like half the other people that respond on these forums.

2kdrift

thorton21

"I didn't know if the rods would scrape the inside of the cylinder or not." 2KDrift If your gonna try to use my post against me, try reading the following statement and put that in there if your gonna quote it.

Schister66

The block needing to be notched is a product of the rod's Big End not clearing the inside of the crankcase since they're beefier than the OEM rods. The rods will still fit down the cylinder and can be attached to the crank, but if it needs to be notched, you'll know because the rotating assembly won't turn over.

You still install the rods the same way as normal - attach pistons, install and compress rings, slide down cylinder. You can't stuff the pistons up from the bottom and there's no way to install pistons on the rods while they're in the cylinders because you can't access the wrist pin.

thorton21

That's what I needed to know, I have never dealt with having to notch the block before. Thank you

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

ive see this method done by many engine builders that post videos online.

blackeg

ive been doing it this way for a few years now and will never go back to the adjustable ring compressor. what a pain in the *** this is effortless.
as far as notching, its been 8 years but i remember it was the girdle that needed substantially more notching than the bottom on the block/cylinders. it was a lot of apart, notching, and together again on the engine stand. dont put the rings on the pistons until the final assembly after all measuring, notching and cleaning is done. to notch i just used a dremel with a metal bit. the grinding stones fill up with the melted aluminum quite quickly and become useless. make sure to clean that bitch once u finish notching. hot soapy water, some decent pressure. take the oil galley plugs out and flush that out too. blow it all out with compressed air and get some oil or wd40 on the cylinders immediately

jahmesz

Exactly ^^