That is exactly how I knew the motor was getting hot was with the EMS software. Your right, the gauge does not move till you reach about 230+ degrees. So most people running 220+ is not going to really know. I totally spaced out about that. I like my motors running at about 200-210, and I see those temps when I change out the intercooler or have no bumper at all.

 

What is the style exactly that you said ran cooler?

I'm having this issue and I know it's the intercooler blocking the flow to my half rad.

 

Fal fans really help but the C&R has a built on slim fan... Are you still rocking the C-West front? Do you have the stock plastic under the bumper? If not look into a piece of aluminum under there as well as a little duct work tucked under the sides.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boognish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the style exactly that you said ran cooler?

I'm having this issue and I know it's the intercooler blocking the flow to my half rad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tube and Fin (as oposed to bar and place) allow more air to pass through thus allowing for better cooling.

 

in for more info

 

i had the same problem when i went boost. normally while cruising my water temp would stay around 180-190, but after mounting the fmic, it ran at about 210-220. so to fix it i just mounted my intercooler off to the side so it wouldnt block my radiator (halfcore koyo) and made a duct. it isnt the best looking thing ever but it works for me. now my water temps are back down to 180-190 on the freeway. i dont know how long the precision 750 hp one is but heres a picture to get an idea of what i did. its a 29x9x3 fmic from spoolin.

 

Precision uses Garrett Intercooler cores and welds their own cast endtanks on FYI Andy.