BodyKits NW

Well I know it's not just me that has experience this problem. I am by all means not bashing the product. The quality of the Precision Intercoolers is top notch.

Their bar and plate cores are extremely dense and does not let enough air flow to the radiator which causes the motor to run a lil on the hot side. Were talking temps of around 230 degrees.

I've done a lil testing on my own and have found that the PWR cores like my old PWR I got from earl allow much better airflow to the engine with our half size radiators. Logs show 210 across the board. I've dynoed with both and have shown no decrease or increase in HP. But the test is not what I would call technical by no means. Like some people that are hardcore like Full-Race. I don't have the tools to measure every lil thing. I will be doing more test, and trying a bar and plate core that is the same size as my Precision 750 and will be doing a test to see how it performs. The design should allow more air through the core for better cooling, but have no affect on performance. For a daily driver this is critical for me, and I know for a fact that the cause of my overheating is my intercooler. The PWR I had worked flawless, and I can't wait to see the results with this bar and plate.

Just thought I would post and let you guys know what I noticed. I am sure there are a ton of you 750HP owners that do not have this problem, but I know there is a small number of you that experience this. So I am just posting my findings.

1Quikgsr

do you have an aftermarket thermo or fan switch? i noticed a big drop in temp when i got the spoon thermo and fan switch, i have the biggest pwr core and have no problems, car runs cooler then some of my friends stock b series motors. heres a picture..

BodyKits NW

No, all of it is stock. I never had a problem with my PWR. The PWR actually is the one that kept my heat in check.

bigbadboy

do you have a dual core radiator??

BodyKits NW

Like I said it's a single core radiator.

It only happens when I have my precision installed. Not only is it too dense of a bar and plate, but the endtanks also act as a barrier that doesn't help much.

It's a great intercooler, but I think that for some applications such as mine it can't provide enough airflow to my radiator. The PWR Tube and Fin are known to have better flow through out the outer fins giving enough airflow to keep temps down. It's just the way the tube and fin differs in design. I like the bar and plate so I am going to try this new bar and plate to see if it will solve my issues.

alpha

This isnt a Precision specific problem. I know you said this in your posts but I thought I would reiterate it. I have had cars with PWR and Spearco's with the same problem. Taking the front bumpers off dropped the coolant temps, on average, 10F - 12F. I have the Precision 600HP (PN 053-1010). 187 - 189 boosting. 192 - 195 driving. 198 - 202 sitting. Some bumper mods though 170F thermostat, 1600CFM fan or more, Pro-Blend 40 Below and proper bleeding should help a bit. 230F is a little on the warm side though

vxhatched

Its not the intercooler, its not getting enough air across it. If that is not the problem, then pull the thermoswitch plug jumper it together, to get the fan to run all the time, then get an jackson racing 160 thermostat for $5.00. And i guarantee you can run the stock radiator and fan. My buddy has a 650 whp civic si tuned by Courtney Green and thats all they did. We dogged the car all day and all night against my buddy Kelvins 750 whp talon off the spray, and we were fine. Kelvin won off course you cant mess with AWD on the streets.

BodyKits NW

I don't see how it's not the intercooler when I have swapped it out for another of the same size and temps goes down. The way a tube and fin is designed it allows more air through it and into the engine bay. There are websites out there that even state that bar and plates do not let as much air past the fins than a tube and fin. I am not saying by all means a tube and fin is better, but in my case for keeping temps down it allows more air to my radiator. Maybe it's just the way my bumper is and how it routes the air. I know a lot of people run the 750hp with no problems. But in my case it doesn't seem to work well and I am not goin to cut up my bumper when the opening in pretty big enough.

If you can run a bar and plate without any problems great. But this bar and plate obviosuly has too dense of a core so less air is getting access to the radiator. It works much better at cooling the air, but it does not let enough air pass through to cool my radiator.

americ_ian

had the same problem, but usuing a tube and fin core intercooler
and dual core civ radiator
solved problem by running a fan when engine temp warmed up

boostismycrack

i've experienced this as well.

miamidamian

maybe head gasket was good then and bad now

b16a2delsol

600 hp precision here , overheated once and it was because of thermostat sticking shut .Possibly getting a cooler running thermostat and higher flowing pusher fan should do the trick

ladysman

I too was having cooling issues or at least I didn't like the engine running 205 on water temp all the time nor did I like having to the put heat on in the summer.

My old setup consisted of a Autozone 12" fan that I got for like $50 but it wasn't helping at all. I found out it was rated at like 800cfm which simply isn't enough. So I did some looking around and found this fan from Permacool (smaller than the one Platinum used BUT I used it as a puller).
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

I figured this should be plenty for me. After driving it to the battle of the imports, I have determined it works extremely well. I use Neptune RTP and set the fan to kick on @ 175. The water temp gauge NEVER got above 190 so I may fiddle with neptune a little to bring that up maybe a little. Simple software change. I changed NOTHIGN else in the car at all.

All in all, I HIGHLY recommend this fan. It was worth every penny and I'm glad I ditched the other one. Oh and it is actually pretty quiet. I was surprised.

Here are some pics of comparison. And yes, it was a tight fit.





Underneath shot


Top shot.


Also, if you do NOT have AC, you need to do this. It forces air to the radiator.
Simple piece of aluminum from Lowe's.


Hope this helps others.

BodyKits NW

No, it's not my headgasket. I have a exhaust gas analyzer that I use daily to check for things like that.

As for my radiator fan, I run a C&R with slimfan. I think it's rated for 1250CFM.

SovXietday

I have a PWR 12x24x3 (core, 32x12x3 is endtanks) and I generally am about 190-195 or so normal driving, it will reach 205-210 when sitting but that's as high as it has ever gotten. *shrug*

100% stock radiator, fan, and thermo.

BodyKits NW

Tube and Fins flow. The way they are designed they allow much more air to travel through the actual core and into the engine bay.

Performance wise they may differ from it's bar and plate counterpart, but overall cooling is much better overall when it comes to coolant temps and getting charge air cooled.

Were working on my friends Turbo Integra which I am about to tune in a few hours. Just by looking at his 750HP you can easily see how the large intercooler, endtanks do not allow much air to flow into the engine bay. Maybe people can argue this, but this is just plain facts. Sure you can get a better fan, cut your bumper, but there shouldn't really be a need to. You can't hide what you see. The fact is the core is super dense. This is one of the many reasons why Garrett core perform so well. But there is a small downside to this in some applications where it distrups airflow and cooling to the engine. After doing my own research you can easily find documentation that will support this about bar and plate intercoolers. Therefore I am switching from my Garrett core to a different designed bar and plate core that I am testing to see if it will allow more air to the engine bay and allow normal temps to be seen. I am a bar and plate guy, and I am going to give this other bar and plate core a shot to see the results. I know for a fact that my PWR Intercoolers works great in my setup and keeps air temps down. I did not really believe the documentation that I read so I went to test this theory out for myself, and I found the results to be true.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I too was having cooling issues or at least I didn't like the engine running 205 on water temp all the time nor did I like having to the put heat on in the summer.

My old setup consisted of a Autozone 12" fan that I got for like $50 but it wasn't helping at all. I found out it was rated at like 800cfm which simply isn't enough. So I did some looking around and found this fan from Permacool (smaller than the one Platinum used BUT I used it as a puller).
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

I figured this should be plenty for me. After driving it to the battle of the imports, I have determined it works extremely well. I use Neptune RTP and set the fan to kick on @ 175. The water temp gauge NEVER got above 190 so I may fiddle with neptune a little to bring that up maybe a little. Simple software change. I changed NOTHIGN else in the car at all.

All in all, I HIGHLY recommend this fan. It was worth every penny and I'm glad I ditched the other one. Oh and it is actually pretty quiet. I was surprised.

Here are some pics of comparison. And yes, it was a tight fit.





Underneath shot


Top shot.


Also, if you do NOT have AC, you need to do this. It forces air to the radiator.
Simple piece of aluminum from Lowe's.


Hope this helps others. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I definatly have to try doing that plate thing to see if it helps with my cooling problem

si937

I thought i read somewhere your car got stolen. its that true?

shortyz21

^^^^^

BodyKits NW

That's a great idea, but I got A/C

BB6-213

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


^^^^^ </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have more pics of this, its kinda hard to see what its doing.

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BB6-213 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have more pics of this, its kinda hard to see what its doing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It covers up where the AC went....thats it. 1 90 degree bend by the radiator to direct air to the radiator. It works.

D@nnY

I have the 750 precision and a dual core fluidyne radiator and it was running a little hot in the summer. the stock gauge does not read past half way until over 230-235 degrees so most people dont know if they even have a problem unless they are datalogging or have a different gauge. I noticed with the golden eagle hd sleeve design it runs a little warmer also. I but a fal fan with a shroud to help and i dont drive it when its 100 degrees outside and its fine

JDM B16 EK

i soon will be running a 750HP precision intercooler with a fluidyne radiator, stock fan, and mugen thermo. Hopefully i won't run into this problem. will keep you updated once i get it in.

BB6-213

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It covers up where the AC went....thats it. 1 90 degree bend by the radiator to direct air to the radiator. It works. </TD></TR></TABLE>

simple enough, thanks.