your arguement is valid but you shouldnt been boosting when the car isnt at operating temp anyways. so once the car reachs temp then the thermo is open and providing coolant flow to the turbo.

 

I would think going to the top of the rad would be best since the water pump is already flowing the coolant inside the block/head. The coolant comes from the waterjacket via the large drain bolt to the turbo to the top of rad so that it can drain back into the head since the top rad hose is connected to the head.

Or maybe draining into the bottom of rad is okay since the additional coolant from the turbo drain will cause overflow on the top of rad to drain into the had via the top rad hose.

Either way that is a clean setup and would seem to work.

 

I said nothing about boosting and operating temps in my post. When you car is at operating temps the thermo does NOT stay open at all times. So what your saying makes no sense at all. What your saying is that you should only boost when the thermo is open, right??? C'mon now..

 

i wasnt attacking you or anything. my understanding is that the thermo IS open at all times once the car reaches operating temp. is that incorrect? i was under the impression that an oem honda thermo begins to open at around 175* and is fully open at 195* so it would infact be open (at least partially) at all times when the ECT is above 175*

so my logic isnt "boost when the thermo is open" its more like the thermo is open at operating temps, therefore your turbo should have coolant flow at operating temps when you begin boosting.

 

If i read that picture correctly, you have hot coolant coming from inside the block, through the turbo, to the lower end of the radiator?
You do realize that you're putting hot water into the cool water thats flowing into the engine, thus weakening the cooling capability of the radiator.

 

I like the idea of putting two bungs on the radiator. One on the bottom that feeds the turbo and then one at the top for the drain. I see nothing wrong with this one. Don't have to wait till the thermostat opens at all. plus you are putting the used coolant in the radiator and then getting it cooled and then it gets fed to the turbo through the bottom.

 

theres no movement in that senario. The thermostat is the regulator of flow. When it's closed, nothing is moving in the radiator, therefor nothing is going to be moving through the coolant lines in the turbo.

The water pump is the source of pressure in the system, in order to cool the turbo, coolant that is moving, before the thermostat, must be plumbed to the inlet on the turbo, then from the exit, you need to find a place to releave the presure and send the hot liquid to be cooled down again before starting the cycle all over.

 

What about this:

Have a -6an bung welded to the coolant pipe on the back of the block and then have a line going to the turbo as a feed line

And then have a -6an bung welded to the bottom of the radiator as a drain source?

 

YES!! haha

 

The only thing I think is wrong with the Synapse sytem is the return IMO. I would prefer to have the return on coolant pipe on the back of the block right by the water pump.

 

Is the D Series Freeze plug the same size?

Turbo D gets no love. All these coolant lines are advertised for B series.

 

I did my lines this way. I left the hose on the back of the turbo off to see if coolant would come out of there. I started putting coolant in the radiator and coolant came out of it which tells me that coolant is moving through the turbo all the time.

 

i have the same thoughts as stiffdog.


can you feed and return both to the radiator?

i want to feed it off the bottom of the rad and return it to the top.


i am having some slight overheating issues and i figured it would be best if the hot coolant from the turbo dont ever even go to the motor. if its possible i would like to both feed and return directly to the radiator.