ninedeewuncrx

ok heres the deal... i have a eg coupe shell and i hane a full b series turbo kit sitting in my room begging to be put on that i was gonna put on my b18 in my crx but im deciding to boost the eg instead...

I am on a kinda tight budget and i am lookin to make 300whp more or less out of a b series...and i know i can search but i would rather ask all the questions myself and get some personal opinions from other budget tuners on wut motor to use and what different internals to use if any
thanks guys

95civhb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninedeewuncrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok heres the deal... i have a eg coupe shell and i hane a full b series turbo kit sitting in my room begging to be put on that i was gonna put on my b18 in my crx but im deciding to boost the eg instead...

I am on a kinda tight budget and i am lookin to make 300whp more or less out of a b series...and i know i can search but i would rather ask all the questions myself and get some personal opinions from other budget tuners on wut motor to use and what different internals to use if any
thanks guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

the ls motor is a great platform to begin with.. relatively inexpensive, and the compression ratio is relatively low (9.2/1)...

how tight is tight? and how high do you eventually want to go?

jmm96gsr

iTrader: (1)

I assume by eg coupe shell you're referring to a 5th gen civic coupe. You want a budet build: GSR + pieced together turbo kit = consistant low 12 sec. 1/4 mile. Check my sig.

neoc03

What kind of B series is in the coupe? You could easily get 300hp out of it. I would build the block internals for peace of mind. What is your total budget?

DC-2uned

Well whether it's B18a, b or c I'd say:
-upgrade the head studs and rod bolts with ARPs
-install all new oem gaskets
-check whatever clearances and torques possible
-make sure you have enough fuel support
-find a really good tuner
and boost away but I would push it much past 250-300whp on a stock LS or 300-350whp from a GSR because from what I've seen they become more unreliable at an almost exponential rate after those power ranges w/stock internals. Good Luck.

neoc03

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC-2uned &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well whether it's B18a, b or c I'd say:
-upgrade the head studs and rod bolts with ARPs
-install all new oem gaskets
-check whatever clearances and torques possible
-make sure you have enough fuel support
-find a really good tuner
and boost away but I would push it much past 250-300whp on a stock LS or 300-350whp from a GSR because from what I've seen they become more unreliable at an almost exponential rate after those power ranges w/stock internals. Good Luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good list for a budget build! Spot on with the hp recommendations.

ninedeewuncrx

by tight i mean like if i sell my crx for 2500-3000 and maybe another grand on top of it cause that means i need to get a motor in asap cause its my only car...ill get the motor in first before i boost it ... what internals would u recommend for a ls motor? my brother has a boosted ls 100% stock pushin 270whp hasent had any problems... im thinkin i mite go with an LS or b20 et me know wut ya think

thx 4 the help so far

Schister66

If you want to make ~300whp, a good condition LS is your best bet on a budget. With a set of ARP rod bolts and a good setup/tune, you can make that goal easily. You dont need to rebuild the engine to make that kind of power safely. There have been several 400whp+ stock LS builds around HT lately.

urbansi

there is something about getting under a car and putting rod bolts on it that i dont like. I did it on a buddys LS a while ago and it ended up making good power for about 6 months till a ringlanding gave in. but for the most part i would stay away from doing rod bolts.
JMO...

Schister66

If you keep the revs down to the stock LS level, you wont need the rod bolts; however, i've seen many people over rev boosted LS's and have serious problems. Avoid over revving your LS and you wont have to bother with the ARPs

ninedeewuncrx

well some people say LS's can only handle like 10lbs and some people say like 17 lbs of boost
i mean me personally i wouldnt push 17 on a stock block but what is the safe level
also what about a b20?

Schister66

When people say that X block can can take a certain amount of boost, you can pretty much stop listening at that point. People who tell you goals based in PSI really haven't a clue what they're talking about. Air flow and torque is what breaks engines, not boost pressure.

In order to really comprehend this, you need to know more about what the rating PSI really is. It is a measurement of resistance in a system...much like Ohms in an electrical circuit. Put it this way...a turbo flows a certain amount of air, then the engine takes it in, compresses it, heats it and expands it during combustion. That hot charge of air (larger volume than what entered the engine) now has to go out and through the turbine side of the turbo. This resistance in the turbine coupled with the resistance in the head is the amount of overall resistance (aka PSI).

Theoretically if you were to have a turbo with a large turbine and small compressor, you could run almost no boost, but see gains in power due to the air flow. In theory, you could run 4psi on this "Magic turbo" and still make 400whp (for example). The measure of resistance in the head and turbine wouldn't allow much boost to build up in the system, but the airflow accounts for the gain in power.

**if someone wants to add to, subtract from, or edit this above statement, please feel free to let me know what to change in order to make it as accurate as possible**

As for the B20, they have the weakest sleeves of all B series engines. People will argue with me, but there have been NA B20s that have cracked sleeves. I would rather see you go with an LS for a stock block turbo setup.


Modified by Schister66 at 6:44 PM 4/16/2008


Modified by Schister66 at 6:45 PM 4/16/2008

ninedeewuncrx

thanks bro.. that helps.....i have a ls motor now in my crx with about 120-130K on it that i do beat on (especially when i first got the swap done) but the motor still runs fine with now problems as of rite now...do u think if i got like all new gaskets and **** it could handle 300whp or u think i should get one with less mileage

Schister66

The gaskets wouldn't be my primary concern. I would be more concerned with the overall health of the engine. You can determine this by way of a compression/leakdown test. Also, it might not be a bad idea to replace the water and oil pumps.

ninedeewuncrx

if anyone has anymore input fell free to share it... i will prolly be swappin it next weekend or the weekend after that

8200RPM

heres a list of my old setup, hope it helps

Bone Stock b18c1
-hermsfab ramhorn manifold
-Garrett T3/T04E Compressor is a 60trim .60A/R, turbine is a .63AR with a stage 3 wheel
-Tial 38mm wg w/ .4bar spring
-hermsfab 2.5"- 3" dp
-open dp
-CCA i/c
-hermsfab 2.5" i/c piping from turbo to tb
-knock off Turboxs type rfl bov
-Napa oil feed line
-Custom oil drain line
-Walbro 255lph HP fuel pump
-RC 650cc injectors
-Intake mani secondaries disconnected
-OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness
-chipped p28 w/Crome pro

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1636637

ninedeewuncrx