this topic has been covered a few times, but there wasnt many responces.

can anyone tell me the main differences b/w the two and at what power level would one want to switch over to the closed deck design?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -iLLuZioN-B18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this topic has been covered a few times, but there wasnt many responces.

can anyone tell me the main differences b/w the two </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know if i'm being over-obvious here, but the closed deck uses a sealed water jacket while the open deck leaves the upper portion of the sleeves standing by themselves with no latteral support from the outter walls.

A set of strong iron sleeves (Golden Eagle, Benson etc.) seem to hold up to all the power one can throw at them, even with keeping the open deck design in the case of the GE's.

 

I would like to know how reliable a Dart block will be on the street, being closed deck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTC_CiViC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't know if i'm being over-obvious here, but the closed deck uses a sealed water jacket while the open deck leaves the upper portion of the sleeves standing by themselves with no latteral support from the outter walls.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah, that is the part i understood. but the thing is, woulnt it be better to go with the closed deck design just b/c it used the seal water jackets? makes sence that it would be stronger.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -iLLuZioN-B18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
makes sence that it would be stronger. </TD></TR></TABLE>If that were the case, everyone running aftermarket sleeved open decks would want block guards. No one uses them and no reasons have ever surfaced to need them. I have never seen or heard of an open deck sleeve fail.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to know how reliable a Dart block will be on the street, being closed deck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would like to know that too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have never seen or heard of an open deck sleeve fail.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean aftermarket sleeve right?

 

yes

 

Under high boost, I believe that the open deck sleeves will warp, and a closed deck would decrease the amount of warping.

 

exactly how would a closed deck stop a sleeve from warping at the mid point? Do you really think a thin piece of aluminum can control a thick piece of hardened steel?
The supposed value of a closed deck is to stop a sleeve from rocking which destroys head gasket seal. Any sleeve installed properly is strong enough to withstand the rocking whether it is open or closed deck or supported against an aluminum block with tabs.

 

Open and closed deck are perfect for mild street application to high HP application. The usual argument over the closed deck that it block off coolant in at the top of the cylinder where detonation occurs and where it need coolant the most. Well, closed deck have had better cooling channeling that those problem are non existent these days.

Open deck old argument was sleeves shifting, well it's all in the install. If the stock sleeves was not cut right and perfect from the start, NO SLEEVES will be able to withstand the abuse, it will warp and sink overtime. The key to sleeving is the install. Again, like Earl said, no thin aluminum brace can hold any sleeves from shifting if it started to shift, but if you have it install perfectly the first time, any sleeves will be able to withstand the abuse, any abuse

The key is preparation to install and tuning.

Stan

 

Closed deck

 

So to re-sleeve AND go closed deck is over kill?

 

Thanks Stan.

I figured that if I am going to want a built block someday, I will probably go with a Dart block. Sleeving is cheaper, but I don't think I will have to worry about the possibility of leaking, sinking sleeves, etc.

 

While my block was at the machine shop I had them press a guard in. The guard had holes in it for coolant to pass, and they sank it about 1/2 an inch in the water jackets.

Cameron