HG FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I never knew aobut sleeve shifting

I already do have ARP headstuds and a blockguard installed at the top of the cylinders

When I installed my ARPS though, I didnt use any lube.... just put them in a clean dry block and torqued to 65ft/lbs

I need advise</TD></TR></TABLE>

no lube?

did you check to see if the studs loosneed up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if its the head lifting/sleeves shifting then I have no reason to pull the head off
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, don't pull the head off and have it checked out. Keep having the same problem and keep making posts so we can keep giving you advice that you will keep on not taking.

 

Did I not say I put on my headstuds without lube? Aparently that would give me like a 40ftlb torque spec when its supposed to be almost 80

So what I think Im gonna do is take off the VC, untorque the head, remove the studs and soak them in oil then reinstall

If it doesnt work then I guess I'll either have a blown headgasket or fucked sleeves right?

 

when the head lifts, it normally take the headgasket. either way take your head off and look

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did I not say I put on my headstuds without lube?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, right after you said you overheated the motor over and over and shot coolant past the headgasket making it unusuable then asked us for help and everyone told you to pull the head and have it checked.

Do what you want, you have it set in your mind to not listen to us anyway.

 

Head lifting = Bad tune

Have it retuned and the head will not lift.

If the head is not lifting it sounds like a bad headgasket caused by a warped block (assuming you didn't have it milled the first time).

Good luck bud

DAN

 

I guess I need to find out what the torque specs are and atleast try that first

 

at what temps does the head begin to warp??

 

it doesn't warp all the time.
d series u torque to like 65-75 lbs
and use OIL!

why did u do it dry wtf

 

If I soak them in 10w-30 what spec would I use?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if its the head lifting/sleeves shifting then I have no reason to pull the head off

If thats the case then then most I can do is remove my arp headstuds and reinstall them with 10w-30 and retorque them down for the proper settings</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO if you are lifting the head then you have an issue (bad tune), or you may have stretched your headstuds or you may have a warped head. Do it once and do it right. Also it is best to use ARP Moly Lube on the studs then torque them.

 

I dont have this **** at my disposle, I live in a **** small town of 11,000 with ZERO shops that can mill a head, order head studs, headgasket or even get this moly lube probably.

Im working with what I got

As of right now Im ripping off the headstud nuts, making sure the studs are bottomed and then retorquing to 85ft/lbs with thick oil

If that dont work and I have zero coolant leaks, I'll break down and lose my ride for a week and get the head milled and order a new gasket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont have this **** at my disposle, I live in a **** small town of 11,000 with ZERO shops that can mill a head, order head studs, headgasket or even get this moly lube probably.

Im working with what I got

As of right now Im ripping off the headstud nuts, making sure the studs are bottomed and then retorquing to 85ft/lbs with thick oil

If that dont work and I have zero coolant leaks, I'll break down and lose my ride for a week and get the head milled and order a new gasket</TD></TR></TABLE>


Go ahead and order a headgasket now, order some moly lube and possibly some new headstuds for when you pull the head off in a week.

Use a credit card and use one of the many vendors to get the stuff you need. Do they have Credit Cards in your small town yet?

 

No Im not old enough to have a credit card lol sorry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No Im not old enough to have a credit card lol sorry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just ask Mom/Sister and Dad/Brother for one to use I dunno about inbred small towns too much j/k

 

no offence dude, but you ahve made 2-3 threads regarding misc overheating / cooling system threads

in all the threads ppl tell you that your HG has popped

maybe its time you started beleiving and listening to everyone

 

You think that would be the case for sure...but not necessarily the "truth". I have almost the same issue with mine. I used a combustible gas checker on the cooling system and did a leak down w/ about 3% across the board. A compression check was done at this time too. I was worried that the break in was not done well, but that checked out fine. So at 8-10 lbs of boost I have zero issues, but if i crank it up to 12-15lbs, the rad hoses go rock hard and it starts to overheat. There is the possibility that the head is lifting under higher boost level and that the HG is actually intact. I am not taking any chances with mine, I am going to pull my head, check with a straight edge, mill if necessary and put a new HG in it just to be sure. Do any of you all know the Torque specs for AEBS Head studs off hand???

 

Well whatdya ******* know

I crack off each arp nut individually, lube up and reinstall and retorque to 70ft/lbs to start, do all 10 of them one after another

Then I stepped it to 80 ft/lbs, did the inside 6 then moved to the bottom right and it spun a 1/4 turn without clicking, again another 1/4 turn without clicking.

I pulled the nut off and relubed it, stud seemed to be bottoomed out as it wouldnt spin by finger.

Put it on again and starting torquing, barely even got passed what I would say would be about 30ft/lbs and SNAP

SNAP!!!

The dam stud snapped off

Its pretty much flush with the top of the head so I can probably tap it out if I can find something to punch it around in circles with

I wonder if it was always snapped this whole time?

Well ****, aint that a bitch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well whatdya ******* know

I crack off each arp nut individually, lube up and reinstall and retorque to 70ft/lbs to start, do all 10 of them one after another

Then I stepped it to 80 ft/lbs, did the inside 6 then moved to the bottom right and it spun a 1/4 turn without clicking, again another 1/4 turn without clicking.

I pulled the nut off and relubed it, stud seemed to be bottoomed out as it wouldnt spin by finger.

Put it on again and starting torquing, barely even got passed what I would say would be about 30ft/lbs and SNAP

SNAP!!!

The dam stud snapped off

Its pretty much flush with the top of the head so I can probably tap it out if I can find something to punch it around in circles with

I wonder if it was always snapped this whole time?

Well ****, aint that a bitch</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like you should have taken all of the advice, buy new headstuds,oem headgasket and mill the head. This is what you get for doing things the wrong "ghetto" way.

 

How is retorquing a head "ghetto", you "fvcking retard"

 

I think YOUR the retarded because you get all this advice and dont take it.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How is retorquing a head "ghetto", you "fvcking retard"</TD></TR></TABLE>

How many times did people tell you to take the head off and have it checked and purchase new studs and install correctly with a new headgasket?

I may be a retard but if you will excuse me i'm going to go out and cruise in my running car on this fine Friday evening. Have fun "stud".

 

right now i hate to say it but im glad this happened, now you HAVE ti take the head off and change the hg. since theres no torque on the head stud it should come out fairly easily with an easy out or something like that. sorry you snappede a head stud but it will work out for the best in your case