PINKS

Let me start off by saying Ive had nothing but problems with the cooling system on my car, everything keeps going to ****, from broken rad to failed thermos.

Im recently having a problem with my car eating/losing coolant. Most of the time I would go out form a normal drive and Id have some coolant bubbling in my overflow. I found a leak at the thermo housing.

Today I went out for a full throttle pass with my girlfriend 0-100 and I noticed my temp gauge go up passed half REAL quick

I pulled over and whatdya know. The top of my overflow literally exploded off

The car is an 88 Crx si, d16a6 motor with fully forged internals but stock sleeves. Y8 gasket coppersprayed and ARP headstuds to 65ft/lbs

I want this car to be able to do a full throttle pass. Whats going on with this dam car. What would cause the overflow to literally explode and for me to lose all my coolant to fast. Head lift, Head gasket or something else?

ProjectDarkBlack

sounds like the head is lifting really bad. Some of the things you can do are have the block o-ringed, use bigger diameter studs, try different gaskets etc. If you have had these problems before without getting the head resurfaced, that could be a good idea.

Lonnieboosted

Sounds a lot like a head gasket blown.

PINKS

The car has overheated a few times due to the coolant eating, I dont think it gets rediculously hot but the gauge gets all the way up to the H twice I believe

I dont know how much coolant I lost, but Im sure its enough

komat

get a pressure tester for your cooling system and do a leakdown

nsxmatt

By the time it gets to the H it's got hot enough to warp the head. If you boost and the coolant overflows your getting boost in the cooling passages. Pull the head and have it checked and worked over and install a new stock honda headgasket.

Honda Sport

sounds like a blown headgasket...

Got_soy

how many people need to tell you your headgasket is trash. Hmt said it, ht said it. take your head off get the bitch milled and fix it for the last ******* time.

PINKS

I posted this ish 40 minutes ago lol, relax

Even if my headgasket was blown, Ive read the HG threads, people were sometimes overheating, sometimes pushing coolant into the overflow

Never was anyone blowing ther overflow off

Theres no chance the head would be lifting THAT much or at all with my setup and specs right?

Got_soy

well the other "im everheating" threads you posted everybody said your hg was bad, you kept driving and boosting and now your eninge might be fucked, who knows you might of cracked a sleeve, take the head off tomarrow and fix it

Blaze45

Honnestly Ive just kinda sat back and watched this all, its been your headgasket from the begining and now more then likely your head needs to be milled cause its prolly warrped. You can check it your self with a straight edge and feeler gauge if your too ghetto to have someone do it for you. Another thing Im willing to bet is that it isnt properly tuned on the timing maps, causing your HG/ head lifting issues. What do you mean by blowing off your overflow? The hose that goes from the rad to the overflow? Yes, its quite possible because your HG is toast. Whenever you hit boost your pressurizing your entire cooling system. Judging by what you posted eariler that you made a pull to 100, there was A LOT of pressure build up. That pressure will eventually break something loose, apprently your overflow was the weakest link.

Good Luck figuring out what HT and HMT have told you for quite some time.

p0gi

you can get a tester from the autoparts store to find out if you have a bad headgasket. It checks for exhaust in the cooling system.

Brad

I've had my overflow get full and spill over when I had a blown head gasket. You can try a leak down test and see if you get air bubbles coming out of your radiator.

BLKTeg94

Either blown Head gasket, cracked sleeve, ARP's have been know to have lifting problems. Why everyones been going to AEBS or Golden Eagle head studs. Is there any oil mixing in with the coolant??? or coolant with the oil? Still run like it always has, Doesn't sound like it's a got a deal cylinder?

PINKS

When you take your head in to get it milled, they keep it fully assembled right?

yellowturbo

Do what you want but even if you get your head milled the problem is not there. I dont know why but the some D series block are super fine on stock sleeves and some are just ****. It look from my old gasket that the sleeves are moving slightly under high load and make the gasket leak.

I had the same problems that you have... I had my block and my head milled and after that the problem was still there so dont loose your time and send it to Earl ( Benson sleeves ) and you will be fine after this. If you mill your head and the problem is still there after... just remember my post lol... I even do lapping with my car and I have no problem with the overflow or the coolant, everything is super stable.

Finland

try replacing the radiator cap first.

igo4bmx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by komat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a pressure tester for your cooling system and do a leakdown</TD></TR></TABLE>

i found in my case that didn't help

my coolant overflow was filling up under boost, but i had less then 3% leak on all four cylinders.

you don't have a HEAD lift issue, but more of a sleeve shifting issue.
the head can't LIFT- the sleeves are moving side to side from timing issues, and causing you to lose the HG seal u had before.

I put a blockguard in, and been boosting away no problems

turbotime

&usually only dseries sleeves shift like that which can be fixed by a blockgaurd in some cases.

Sounds like a blown hg, my old build had the same issue. Arps + a new headgasket will get you right as rain.

rtype11

I dont know D series stock torque specs but genrally ARP recommends that if useing 30weight oil as lube you need to increase the torque by around 20 lbs over using their moly lube. call arp and ask for recommended torque specs based on the lube your using and gasket type. I think its to late for you to retorque the head, yank the head, inspect, reapir if necessary and reinstall with properly calibrated torque wrench and technique. gop over your tune, cylinder pressures due to timing or cylinder temp may be way too high.

WickedHonda00

ok, so now you know these possible explanations: sleeve walk, blown head gasket, and warped head, possibly could use better head studs and all of this problem leads back to timing issues, which is categorized under tuning.

your lucky none of this requires too much money, and as far as labor it could be back on the road in a relatively quick period. So do this: buy a blockguard, new head gasket, and new head studs. Still cheap stuff we're talking about here. Go to a machine shop, have them install the block guard and mill your head to whatever it takes, flatten that bitch out. Re-install new head gasket when it's time to put head back on, using snazzy new head studs. Then of course..the hardest and most important part of it all...get a good tune, whether it be Hondata walking you through it step by step, or a local AND reputable tuner w/ heavily modified Honda's. Fix ALL possible mistakes just to make sure everything is in good working order.

PINKS

Well I never knew aobut sleeve shifting

I already do have ARP headstuds and a blockguard installed at the top of the cylinders

When I installed my ARPS though, I didnt use any lube.... just put them in a clean dry block and torqued to 65ft/lbs

I need advise

nsxmatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I need advise</TD></TR></TABLE>

What part of pull the head off and have it checked do you not understand??

Boostfed

Blown Headgasket or lifting the head, get that fixed and get the head checked for straightness

PINKS

Well if its the head lifting/sleeves shifting then I have no reason to pull the head off

If thats the case then then most I can do is remove my arp headstuds and reinstall them with 10w-30 and retorque them down for the proper settings