GruvyTune

I just started the process of pulling my turbo out since its leaking oil out the turbine side.

I pulled my oil return line while the car is flat on the ground and there is oil draining out of it. Not alot but its obvious that where the oil is filled to (halfway up the marks on the dipstick) that the lower part of the oil return fitting is sitting just above the oil-line level in the pan.

I checked out Dustin's site and my fitting sits almost exactly where his is. The line going to it comes around the DP and comes in about parallel to the ground into the pan (no downward turns at all).

Is this ok? I mean this wouldn't be a cause of my oil leaking from the turbo will it? If the return fitting sat above the oil level (perhaps going down a hill it does) then I know that would be a problem.

please let me know!! I am worried I may have to buy a new pan again and have it rewelded!

torin

GruvyTune

ok. Now with the oil return line out and the oil drained so the level is obviously level with the bottom of the fitting, I checked my dipstick level and its at the bottom mark.

Does this mean I can keep my current setup and just leave my oil level at the bottom of the fill range?

I imagine most other people's oil returns sit in about the same location as mine does.

Flamenco-T

damn, man I need to go back to sleep...and my god, do you sleep ???
anyway....teh most important things is first your shaft bearing must be in a 12 and 6 o'clock positions....the oil feel must point straight up and the oil return flange must point straight down....
we all have this thing about making the line straight down, but forgetting that gravity is the only thing that brings oil down from the shaft housing...

second, here's how mine is setup...
I have a 90 deg union, so down, horizontal, then 45 deg swivel, horizontal(more like slanted down about 25 deg) aorund the downpipe, staright down, horizontal and a hose end to the oil pan....

again, the line is not the starightest path down, but I no longer have oil leaks, since the 45 deg swivel seal and tthe 90 deg union, makes a difference....

BTW, before hand, I was losing 1/8 quart of oil every two days....

stan



[Modified by Flamenco-T, 6:02 AM 11/18/2001]

GruvyTune

Stan,
thanks for your reply.
I do get sleep, I slept a good 8 hrs last night and awoke to get the turbo out to ship tomorrow.

I have my turbo clocked perpendicular as it should be. I got the turbo out now (wasn't as bad as getting it in so I'm not too upset--took the radiator out completely this time). My oil return is FMax's design using 5/8" fuel hose to go back to the pan. Not as good as stainless fittings but there are not leaks at the barbed fittings on either end.

I can see where the oil stains are coming out at the junction of the turbine housing and the mainshaft housing and runs right around the bottom of the turbo. The compressor side seems oil free and there is not a trace of oil in the pipes going to the intercooler. There is tons of black residue in the turbine and the downpipe (but then again there is tons of black residue in the exhaust ports from the engine--I am sure I was running very rich before tuning and still on the rich side of stoich. just to be safe so I assume that accounts for some of that).

I think my suspicions are confirmed then that this is probably a case of turbo piston seal leak. I don't remember before I installed the new turbo whether there was any freeplay but the turbine shaft has some back and forth freeplay. Perhaps this is normal? It turns freely and I was having no problems achieving boost.

When you fill your oil pan, is your fitting really above the oil level so that nothing comes back out the fitting if you remove it? it seems the oil level is so high up that it would be impossible to achieve that.

Let me know how far down the bottom of your oil fitting sits in relation to the top of the pan please.

thanks!
torin

Flamenco-T

when I jacked the car up from the driver side, while disconnecting the oil return from the pan, OIL does not burst out of the oil pain flange....

so yes my oil drain is above the oil level in the pan...
again, it may be because I jacked up the car...

when I do oil change, I unbolt the drain bolts and lower the car back down again, so that all oil would be drain out.....
this may or may not help, on the valve cover, if you keep the oil cap on the valve cover, itmay hold the pressure in..... I always undo the oil cap when draining to force more oil down...

HTH

GruvyTune

oh yea, if you jack up the car, it will definitely keep your oil from draining out your return line. Mine was level ground. It did not pour out just trickled out so its not like the level is above the fitting occluding it.

Would you take the time for me and with the car level see if you get oil coming out your return fitting if you disconnect your return hose? I would really appreciate it cause that would answer alot of questions if you have a trickle out and you have no problem with turbo leaking oil.

Thanks again!!

torin

Flamenco-T

yeah, I can do that...my car is kind of low though, it's kinda almost impossible to unscrew the oil return flange wihthout jacking it up, I'll give it a shot today.....

besides, I am gonna have to bolted up my downpipe again anyway...
I'll post results..

stan

GruvyTune

thanks stan!

just jack it up, remove the hose from your fitting and lower the jack to see what comes out! Very cool. that will help out alot. I won't be surprised if you get a little come out.

Oh, do you know where to get an oil restrictor?

I was gonna send my turbo back to Turbonetics for the warranty repair. I am now thinking of sending out tomorrow to Majestic in Waco. I heard the are very good. I was going to pay them the extra money to rebuild mine with the ceramic ball bearing upgrade. i heard this makes a big difference in performance and longevity. Any comments? Their turnaound time is also great--1 day!
Torin

Flamenco-T

yeah, majestic at Waco is very good as a matter of fact....I'd take it there myself...

as far as ceramic ball bearing, true they spools a little bit faster (~500rpm), longetivity might outlast shaft bearing by a little, but ball bearing are not rebuildable, if for some reason the shaft gone south on you, then you're pretty much have no other options but to buy a new turbo...

I wouldn't put the extra money on Ball bearing, if it were me..

stan

GruvyTune

The turbonetics can be rebuilt with the single ceramic thrust bearing. I confirmed that with turbonetics. I am sure majestic can do whatever turbonetics can do. Check out the turbonetics website to see what they say. prices are like $275 for the ceramic bearing rebuild from what they told me. I may be wrong. If not then I may just send it back to the company for the warranty repair.

torin

dustin

Understand that the oil level is much lower when the motor is running. Oil will be being pumped up to the head and will be coating the entire inside of the motor. I have no trouble with the seals on my turbo, and either do the scores of people that have setups similar to mine.

Also, not THAT much oil flows through the turbo. As long as the oil is not being blocked at the oil pan, it will be fine.

Dustin

Flamenco-T

Torin,

I disconnected my oil return from the oil pan, oil did drip down....
I had to fill up another 1/3 quart of oil to where I was before..I disconnected it...
so hope this helps...

GruvyTune

It does! It tells me that that is clearly not the reason my turbo seals blew!! I'm satisfied that it is a faulty turbo and just needs to be rebuilt. I may splurge for the turbonetics ball bearing upgrade as long as its going back anyway.


Is it normal for the turbo to be coated in lots of black residue if the car is even slightly running rich??

Thanks for going through the trouble of confirming that.

Torin